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Picture rear center gauge console

There is almost no difference between the plastic and coper lines in termes of oil pressure readings. But the plastic line was 3mm with a very flimsy compression nut which I broke the first time around, the copper line is 5mm with a more solid compression nut. The problem was I broke the 3mm compression nut so even at idle oil was getting all around the place.

As I remember it is a high volume / pressure oil pump but don't know the spring it has. The other website says lowering the resistors value by half would make the gauge's "pressure" go up by 2x.

But I hope to test the oil temp tomorrow to see how far off that one is :)

Greetings Peter
 
I had some time today to test the oil temperature.
First warmed up the engine drove around some and then let her idle for about 5 minutes. The dash gauge showed 150 - 160F.

Then changed the oil temp sender for a digital ones, connected my digital temperature gauge to it and restart the engine. Idle again for about 5 minutes and with some time to time rev's the oil temperature came to 195 -200F.

The coolant temp on the dash gauge is around 200 - 210F (with a 195 thermostat). But I didn't have the guts to take the coolant sender out and put the digital sender in as the sender is well below the coolant level in the engine. I'm thinking about lowering the coolant level in the engine, then change the sender.

Greetings Peter
 
I have no idea what my oil temp is other than it is not too hot. Will have to take note of the actual reading next time.

As far as the exchanging coolant sensors....no real good way to get the coolant level low enough. You could remove a freeze plug, but that is really messy. Only other choices are to remove either the fan switch or the coolant temp sensor....both are going to have coolant come rushing out, even if you do drain the radiator first....it will pull some coolant out of the engine but not much.

I really dislike dealing with coolant......

Anyways, getting back to the resistor values; from the readings you posted you do not need to drop the oil pressue gauge by about 20psig. I suggest adding a resistor about 1/3 higher than what is there would bring the readings down about 20psig. I could measure the value of the ones I have if you need the information...just let me know.
 
If you could post the coolant / oil temp and oil pressure that would be a great help for me.
If I remember correctly before the body off my coolant temp was always around 220F. But now the engine is rebuild and everything flushed and new radiator "isolation" so who know's if the 200 -210F is about right?

I think getting one freeze plug out and lowerin the coolant in the engine below the sensor (about 2L or 3/4G) should be just enough to get it right without coolant all over the enginebay. But first vacation, I'll see when I get back in october :)

Greetings Peter
 
I know my coolant temp is under 200F, right at 180F.
Oil pressure is just above 40psig at idle or driving. I will get a read on the oil temp this weekend and post.

Getting a freeze plug out is not easy...have to drive then into the block, then squeeze it a bit, then pull it out using pliers. Would make a large mess with coolant coming out during all of this.

Much better off removing either the fan switch or the temp sensor with one hand and the other hand holding a small bucket with a larger bucket on the ground. This way the small bucket could catch the coolant stream coming out and then divert the coolant into the larger container on the ground. Still going to be a bit messy.
Did I mention that I dislike working with coolant.....

Have a great vacation.
 
Thanks :)
I don't want to remove the freeze plugs (don't know the right name for what I want to remove). But on the left and right side of the engine just above the oil pan (on later years on the right side is the knock sensor). But there are two screw in plugs, if you take one out also all the coolant gets out (but not so messy as with a pressed in freeze plug.) :)

Greetings Peter
 
I had forgotten about those two plugs...yes pulling one of those will work and far easier than a freeze plug...hopefully. Many times those plugs will require a bit of heat in order to get them out.

I check my oil temp gauge reading this weekend. Needle stayed halfway between the 100 and the next mark. Which I thought was low and then I remembered that I put this gauge into my car...bought the pieces all separately....so there is no calibration of meter to sensor. Looks like I need to do this.
 

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