Power brake conversion

[sagnoff]

Although some of you have suggestted against it, I'm planning on adding power brakes to my '67 327/300 Auto. While I know I know that I will need a new booster and master cylinder, what else will I need? Doe's anyone know who sells a kit for the conversion? If not, can anyone tell me what is specifically involved?

Thanks.

 

[IH2LOSE]

I use paragon reproduction and zip products for all of my needs but I do remember ecklers used to sell every thing in kit form.

 

[BLACK MOON]

If you are just going power then all you have to do is add a booster. You can pick up a power booster/ master cylinder combo at Advance Auto for either $99 or $199. I can't remember exactly but I was shocked at the price. I first added a power booster to my 63 and then later added front and rear discs and a new master cylinder.

 

[WayneC]

There is a plastic boot behind the booster (protects the portion of the pushrod sticking out from the firewall) that may not come with the booster.

You will have to drill holes in the slanted area of the firewall above the booster for the booster bracket bolts (will your M/C come with a mounting bracket?), and provide a backing plate to go behind the firewall (Dr Rebuild used to sell them).

The brake tube from the M/C to the front brake junction block is different, as is the long one to the rear brakes (perhaps the old ones can be bent to fit, but I doubt it since the M/C is moved forward quite a bit).

You need a vacuum hose with clamps, and an intake manifold vacuum fitting.

I think the brake pedal pushrod attaches to a different hole in the pedal lever than the standard brake pushrod.

I'd suggest you get hold of a copy of the AIM (Assembly Instruction manual) for your 67 Corvette, and spend some time perusing a good parts catalog, such as Long Island Corvette.

 

[JohnZ]

You won't need a master cylinder, if you have the correct one now - 67's use the same identical master cyinder for both manual and J-50 power brakes (casting #5455509, "DC" stamped on the front pad). The correct GM booster has a "long" front pushrod, as this master cylinder has the "deep" hole in the rear piston. You'll need a new front line from the distribution block to the brass block on the frame, and you'll need to fabricate a flared extension line with a master cylinder fitting on one end and a fitting and union at the other end to connect to the existing fitting on the line that goes to the rear brakes. The booster should come with the correct pedal pushrod on it, with threads for the pedal clevis.