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Power Window Motor repair

red70vette

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Messages
328
Location
Cortlandt Manor,NY
Corvette
1970 red cpe 350/300
I need to repalace or repair my driver's side power window motor. The car is a 70 Coupe and I would like to know if anyone has any tips or tricks for removing and replacing the power window motor.

Thanks for any help you can provide.
 
Are you sure it's bad? Granted, yours is 10 years older than mine are, but when my window was stuck in the down position, I checked the motor for grounds/continuity and tapped it with a hammer lightly a few times to knock 25 years worth of carbon away from the brushes and I haven't had a problen since. Search the old threads, there is good info there. If I recall, the coil spring requires the most attention when removing the motor.

Mike :w
 
I have tried the knock with a hammer trick 4 times and they all worked. Each time the duration was shorter. Except for this last time. No luck. It has moved past that. I need to get the motor out to rebuild or replace it. I think there is just too much carbon build up or the unit is just worn to much to keep it going.
 
Thanks Mike that is what I was looking for. It will probably same me a finger or two. I was going to remove the power window motor and the spring action of the regulator could have been a disaster. I appreciate your help. I tried to search under power windows and never came up with that thread. I wonder why.

Tony
 
Thank You!

!!! THREAD RESURRECTION !!!

I know this thread is already "done" per say, but I just wanted to say thanks for the prior postings. My driver side window decided not to go up for some reason the other day. I finally got around to checking it tonight. After checking the voltage OK, I gave it the "4 taps with a hammer" and whirrrrr...Up it went!

Thanks again! :upthumbs
(Just goes to show that knowing how to search these forums is very handy!)
 
If you use a bigger hammer, you only have to tap it twice!;LOL
 
Thread Resurrection #2

Hi all;
OK, so I also subscribed myself to another thread imbedded in this one about motor removal... but what if everything works but they are both REAL SLOW.... what does that mean? I was just going to replace the motors but perhaps that is presumptuous of me. I have everything out since I just painted the car and before putting it all back together with new felts and stuff I thought it best to fix everything so she is like knew. Driver's side rolls up Ok but passenger side is like 90 year old granny. Any thoughts?
Dawn
 
Hi all;
OK, so I also subscribed myself to another thread imbedded in this one about motor removal... but what if everything works but they are both REAL SLOW.... what does that mean? I was just going to replace the motors but perhaps that is presumptuous of me. I have everything out since I just painted the car and before putting it all back together with new felts and stuff I thought it best to fix everything so she is like knew. Driver's side rolls up Ok but passenger side is like 90 year old granny. Any thoughts?
Dawn


2 B safe the best thing to do when removing the motor assy is to make sure the window is in the up position, as there is a black ~2" diameter flat coil spring in there, near center of mechanism....looks like a tiney cal rod on electric range....

so when releasing all the bolts....about 5 7/16 bolts, out it comes, at that point you see there are just two wires, one for up, the other for down, and of course ground/frame/door shell throug hinges...

check the gear grease, oil the motor, see that it's all fresh....now we get to the fun part.....gotta remove the glass, no choice, as all the bars and mechanism are coming out next.....when you have it all outta there you have to soak those bars/tracks in gasoline overnight, sit them in the driveway....brush down with stiff brush in the morning, cleaning every last damn BIT of dried grease outta there, miss NOTHING, see that the nylon rollers are in good shape, obviously need replace if not....check that the sector gear, the large flat plate one the motor assy turns, is not rusted all to pieces.....I replaced with mild steel...cheeeper, then the stainless options...just make sure you coat both sides with heavy grease upon assy to forestall further rust....

DO NOT GREASE those tracks/bars....just re assemble them dry, put it all back have fun with that center flat round spring, in the up position it's not too bad, but rapidly accumulates tension in lower positions....

I did both my doors at once like this 12 years ago....still fine, go up/dn like a guillotine on a hot night in France.....:boogie:bash
 

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