Preventive Maintenance

[Stallion]

I would just like to hear a list of what you guys do for maintenance on your Corvettes. For instance, I see all this about changing the plugs, and I think it's about time that I also do this. But what else is there needed to do?

Thanks!

Stallion

 

[JonM]

ALL fluids...transmission, engine oil, differential, master cylinder, brake cylinders, radiator, power steering, hydraulic clutch (where applicable)

And my passengers underwear if I go to fast

 

[Stallion]

What about plugs and wires and hoses? Don't replace them until they go? And about tune-ups..? Or do this only when needed if there is a problem?

 

[JonM]

You can squeeze the hoses and any other rubber good to feel for stiffness. Tune-ups should be done on a schedule basis. Belts should be inspected of cracks. I suspect you being a student you are economically challenged. So if it isn’t broke...don't fix it.

 

[KOPBET]

Consider getting "Speed Bleeders" and changing the brake fluid once every couple of years or at least having it done. This will take care of brake fluid exchange in the master cylinder and wheel cylinders. DOT 3 brake fluid is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs water very readily from the air. On the upside this helps keep metal brake lines from rusting by keeping the water away from the metal, but on the down side it also lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. During hard braking the fluid may boil creating compressable gasses. For those that have ABS brakes they would also want to cycle new fluid through the ABS reservoir at the same time the brakes are bled.

 

[Eric]

Stallion,

Another thing lots of people neglect in their cars is the grease fittings in the front end. If you have a haynes or shop manual it will tell you how to do this. It's a quick easy procedure and greatly extends the life of your suspension components.

 

[Stallion]

Stallion,

Another thing lots of people neglect in their cars is the grease fittings in the front end. If you have a haynes or shop manual it will tell you how to do this. It's a quick easy procedure and greatly extends the life of your suspension components.

Are you talking about the wheel bearings? Or no..?

 

[gooney0]

Stallion

No he means the suspension. Ball joints and such.

-Gööney0

 

[Stallion]

Oh I see, thanks! I have my shop manual (well, service manual), and I'll see if I can find it in there about greasing all that up.

 

[JonM]

It may be a good idea to greese the wheel bearings. Its usually done when the breaks are redone...but who knows if yours were.

 

[Eric]

No he means the suspension. Ball joints and such.

-Gööney0

Yep, what he said. When you crawl under there you'll see zerks on various steering and suspension components but don't pump too much grease in as some of those fittings will cause the rubber boots to burst. If you've never greased a front-end before I would recommend getting the old fashioned hand powered grease gun. The newer air and battery powered ones can catch you off-guard. - Eric

 

[Stallion]

Yes, I think I will get the old skool hand grease gun. I have never done this before. I'll go take alook in my Service Manual to see if I can't find the operation on doing this.

 

[DDLS3]

Lets not forget that the 78 likely has zerks on all the U-joints as well. If your 78 has not brakes done in years, then the wheel bearings could use a little attention as the grease ages and becomes contaminated. The rear wheel bearings are a pain to grease but worth the piece of mind in knowing they have a fresh shot. Read your manual for the procedure and get the special adapter required from one of the vette catalogs.

 

[Stallion]

Hmmm...thanks. I will have to look in the manual to get those rear bearings better. And the U-joints. What do you suggest with them? Replacement?

 

[DDLS3]

Unless your U-joints have gotten stiff or are worn and loose, grease should be all they need.

 

[Eric]

...and if your U-joints do have zerks, be sure to get some of the little rubber zerk caps for them if they aren't already there. The last thing you want is even a speck of dirt rubbing around with those pin bearings. -Eric

 

[atmmac]

Stallion also be sure to check out your distributor! It may be a good idea to check your cap and possibly your rotor. This is always a good thing to look at because if that goes your car wont start!! Its no fun when that happens!

-Andy

 

[Stallion]

Unless your U-joints have gotten stiff or are worn and loose, grease should be all they need.

When you grease the joint, you just blast a little lube in the joint-area? Or is there a special non-messy way to do it?

 

[Ken]

Sometimes people will change the u-joints from ones that have Zerk fittings to those that do not have Zerk fittings. This is sometimes done when one is seeking a stronger drivetrain for racing applications, such as drag racing. So if you don't find any on your u-joints TR, you'll know why.

I'm going to move this to the General Tech forum while I'm at it, because you may get a lot more tips from those who own Vettes other than a Shark.

 

[Stallion]

Thanks for the move, Ken. About the Zerk fitting:

zerk fitting:
A small valve that allows grease to be added to a ball joint with a grease gun and prevents the grease from leaking out when pressure is placed on the area. Incorrectly pronounced "zert." Also called grease fitting

I see, so it is a way to grease up the joint. But, as you mentioned, what is the other, more stable alternative for racing? How does that work?

Thanks!