pulling the body on my 74... Help!!!

[timme69680]

Experts, I am doing a frame off restoration of my 74, i have the body stripped to nothing. The body is loose and I am a little afraid of having a group of friends try to lift if off. I have a plan of where to go and what ifs but I was hoping that someone has done this before and knows any secrets.

The body of this car is in perfect condition so I am very sensitive to stress cracks and/or any other side effects that may occur.... Help.

Here is the project www.helptimmebuyahonda.com, Check out the teardown page for where I am. Thnx

 

[Blue82]

I saw you state tag on the windshield and thought "this guy's from Texas". Welcome to CAC from your neighbor in Austin.

I can't help you with the body-off, but there are several people around here that have done it so they will be along soon.

 

[celeryman22]

Im about to do the same thing with my 80. I've almost got all the body mounts off and everything is stripped from the car. I am still waiting for my nolands adams book... Snapped 4 bolts, 1 came out and 3 are stripped. Still seems on there pretty good. I read some people use a jack and 2" x 4" to lift the body up to replace body mounts, this seems like a good idea when it comes to taking the body off, that way you know they are all lose.

 

[timme69680]

I actually have the factory assembly manual and have removed all body bolts and everything else that was holding it down. The short list is : body bolts, steering column, battery ground wire, emergency brake, shifter cable, brake lines, wiring harness in various places, front vacuum container, gas tank gauge wire.. you get the idea.

I have done the 2x4 test on the center part of the body underneath the cockpit, everything is loose. Just not sure how the best way to get it off is. I was thinking maybe cutting a hole in the ceiling and laying a 4x4 across several rafters then using straps and a come along... but I have no idea where to place the straps.

 

[celeryman22]

I actually have the factory assembly manual and have removed all body bolts and everything else that was holding it down. The short list is : body bolts, steering column, battery ground wire, emergency brake, shifter cable, brake lines, wiring harness in various places, front vacuum container, gas tank gauge wire.. you get the idea.

I have done the 2x4 test on the center part of the body underneath the cockpit, everything is loose. Just not sure how the best way to get it off is. I was thinking maybe cutting a hole in the ceiling and laying a 4x4 across several rafters then using straps and a come along... but I have no idea where to place the straps.

I got the book that will tell us that and it should be here tomorrow or today. If it is I will let you know exactly where to put hte straps. I was thinking I could use my engine puller jack it up and roll the frame out from underneath but I dont have the book yet.

 

[timme69680]

That would be awesome. I look forward to hearing from you on this. I don't have an engine puller but I was thinking of maybe renting one. I was also thinking of where I am going to store this thing once I have it off. I don't want to leave it suspended, any ideas???

 

[582Boat]

Body Removal

If you have all the attaching fixtures, bolts, wiring, lines, etc and the body is completely loose, I have used four by fours (4 X 4 )cut the proper length to fit between the frame and then you have to use proper jacks under the four by fours to lift the body up enought to move the remaining frame and wheels out of the way and then sit the body back down on some saw hourses. If you are sure that you have all the attaching hardware loose or removed then start to lift the body up, it will be a little tight and at first difficult, but be careful and eventully it will slide up. What I did first was to have the Vette up on ramps so that I could measure the proper distance between the frame for the 4 x 4's and also to place the proper jacks for lifting. After lifting the body from the frame I then lowered the Vette back to floor level and moved it out of the way. I had to do this procedure to a 1976 Vette that had the frame destroyed in an accident. Doc

 

[timme69680]

That actually sounds really easy. Were exactly did you place the 4x4's? I had a similar idea, but once again I want to put the least amount of stess on the body as possible.

 

[582Boat]

Body Lift

With everything loose and removed, the body is rather light therefor place the 4x4's in the spaces that are available to balanced the body. I can't remember the exact location, but there is not a lot of area to choose from. As I recall the front clip was missing so I didn't have to bother with that weight. As they tell us, everything on a Vette can either be repaired or replaced. My latest project is to remove and replace a new air conditioner tensioner and idler pully and belt on my 1999 Vette. The transmission lines are in the way and there doesn't seem to be much space for a 15 mm wrench or my hands. I hate to get my knuckles all beat up. Doc

 

[pgtr]

If you lift the body from teh side w/ an engine puller like a cherry picker - it's legs extend under the body and that prevents teh body from being rolled out towards teh front or rear.

I believe the straps attach to the body just behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. If it's a coupe I don't think you need to reinforce the door area if the doors are removed because the t-top does this - but dont' quote me. On a convertibel if the doors are removed - they have to be braced I think.

I plan on storing my body on 4 charlie horses plus a support for the nose in the other bay in the GA.

I would think twice before using ga rafters as a hoist point - the way the build houses and all you may be pushing it's limits for strength. I'm looking at constructing a simple frame over the middle of the car w/ a couple/few 2X6s across the span. An I-beam would work great too I would think. I've heard estimates for teh body weight to be between 600-800+ lbs dependign on what's removed.

I'd like to hear more about jacking the car off the frame: Where are the wood pieces placed precisely and how do you get it high enough - w/ the engine and gas tank installed - I don't see how jacking it off is realistic. And I strongly prefer leaving things like the engine and tank in place on teh frame because when I put it back together I want to be able to install that stuff w/ the body off.

 

[Ol Blue]

Timme69680

I just recently took the body off of my daughter's 72 LT-1 convert and used a cherry picker engine hoist. I had already removed the engine, trans and gas tank, and slid the frame out from under it using dolly's under each wheel.

If you go the route of using a cherry picker, make sure the arm is long enough and will lift the body high enough to clear engine and gas tank. Of course you need a high enough ceiling to make this work too.

The lift strap kit that is sold was too long for me to use in the garage. by the time I would have had all of the slack out of the straps, there wasn't enough room to lift the body up high enough to clear the frame, and I believe the hoist would have hit the ceiling too.

I used some tie down straps that had U-shaped ends on one end and hooks on the other. This allowed me to ratchet the length of the straps to a manageable length. The U-ends were place right below the front of the door and right in front of the rear wheel opening.

I put the body on a dolly made of 1" square tubing that is high enough to get under the body to clean it.

I dismantled the frame and had it dipped for rust removal and then powdercoated. I will be starting on reassembly when I get the differential and transmission rebuilt, hopefully in a week or so.

I've also removed the body from the frame on a 68 Convert ex-IMSA racecar without using any hoists. I had already removed the driveline, suspension and fiberglass nose. My son and I just jacked the body up, ran 2x4's under it, put them on blocks and then just dragged the bare frame out from under it.

When we put the body back on we were able to do it with 4 guys. However, this was a completely stripped down race car so it was very light.

I've also been a part of a body-lift on a 67 Coupe using only 4 guys. Not recommended!!! Get at least 6, and I think eight would be better.
Good luck
Ol Blue

 

[celeryman22]

Timme69680

I just recently took the body off of my daughter's 72 LT-1 convert and used a cherry picker engine hoist. I had already removed the engine, trans and gas tank, and slid the frame out from under it using dolly's under each wheel.

If you go the route of using a cherry picker, make sure the arm is long enough and will lift the body high enough to clear engine and gas tank. Of course you need a high enough ceiling to make this work too.

The lift strap kit that is sold was too long for me to use in the garage. by the time I would have had all of the slack out of the straps, there wasn't enough room to lift the body up high enough to clear the frame, and I believe the hoist would have hit the ceiling too.

I used some tie down straps that had U-shaped ends on one end and hooks on the other. This allowed me to ratchet the length of the straps to a manageable length. The U-ends were place right below the front of the door and right in front of the rear wheel opening.

I put the body on a dolly made of 1" square tubing that is high enough to get under the body to clean it.

I dismantled the frame and had it dipped for rust removal and then powdercoated. I will be starting on reassembly when I get the differential and transmission rebuilt, hopefully in a week or so.

I've also removed the body from the frame on a 68 Convert ex-IMSA racecar without using any hoists. I had already removed the driveline, suspension and fiberglass nose. My son and I just jacked the body up, ran 2x4's under it, put them on blocks and then just dragged the bare frame out from under it.

When we put the body back on we were able to do it with 4 guys. However, this was a completely stripped down race car so it was very light.

I've also been a part of a body-lift on a 67 Coupe using only 4 guys. Not recommended!!! Get at least 6, and I think eight would be better.
Good luck
Ol Blue

On a 1980 corvette would you leave the doors in when you pull the body off. Its a T-top. If you take the doors out do I need to brave the body?
Im going to be trying it this weekend, probably sunday.

 

[celeryman22]

That would be awesome. I look forward to hearing from you on this. I don't have an engine puller but I was thinking of maybe renting one. I was also thinking of where I am going to store this thing once I have it off. I don't want to leave it suspended, any ideas???

Truthfully I was disappointed from the video and the book I purchased since I had 99% of the stuff already taken out of the car. The video also didn't really go through the steps of actually lifting the body off. It was more of what and how to disconnect. It would have been nice to see exactly where to put supports, and where to attach lifting devices....

 

[Ol Blue]

celeryman22

You could probably get by with a t-top and take the doors off, but there would be more of a chance of body twist with the doors off. I think I would leave them on or make some brackets out of 1" square tubing to bolt to the hinge piller and the door latch assembly.

I was going to make something like that for the convert, but decided to leave the doors on until I get the body bolted correctly back on the frame.

Good luck
Ol Blue

 

[celeryman22]

Well I got the body off the frame. I used a engine puller, and 2 crank straps. My only problem was the body stand would not go over the engine puller do I had to block it, then jack it onto the ground. I lifted the body, pulled everything back then lowered it onto the stand. If I was going to do it this way again I would have gotten larger wheels so the picker would slide under the body stand. Al I have to say now is what a rusty mess.

 

[Ol Blue]

Good progress!! Sorry I didn't think to remind you to change the wheels to larger ones. I changed mine to 8 or 10 inch rubber ones. That was a bad choice because the rubber ones don't want to move around as well as the plastic ones did. But I was able to slide the engine hoist under it and then roll the body dolly away.

I had my frame dipped to get rid of the rust, then had it powdercoated. What's your plan?
Ol Blue

 

[celeryman22]

Good progress!! Sorry I didn't think to remind you to change the wheels to larger ones. I changed mine to 8 or 10 inch rubber ones. That was a bad choice because the rubber ones don't want to move around as well as the plastic ones did. But I was able to slide the engine hoist under it and then roll the body dolly away.

I had my frame dipped to get rid of the rust, then had it powdercoated. What's your plan?
Ol Blue

My plan is to take it to work sandblast it and apply 2 coats of epoxy and 1 coat of urethane. But before that I have to replace all my body mounts, and I'm going to inspect all the welds using liquid penetrant to see if there are any cracks.

 

[Culprit]

I know you already have your body off, but for what it's worth, I stumbled across some pictures today on the internet. www.countycorvette.com Click on their 'tour' button to see pics of their shop. Towards the end of the tour they show several pics of them lifting or re-installing bodies on several C-2 and 3's. They use an engine puller with 4 chains. Two chains attached to the rear of the door jambs on the stud that the doors close on, and the other two chains run into the engine bay.

Like I said, for what it's worth...

 

[JLMvette73]

Two chains attached to the rear of the door jambs on the stud that the doors close on, and the other two chains run into the engine bay.

I sure be interested in knowing what they're attaching the chain to in the engine bay?

 

[Red69]

I say in the engine bay they have the straps with S-hooks that go into the hole in the rocker channel and body mount #1. That would be the only logical lifting point in that area.