You're welcome. Glad to be of service.redmist said:Thanks for the response Hib.
I'm glad to know even the experts can't make these things work during transitions.
You gotta watch knock sensors on modified engines with big cams. They often sense normal engine noise (such as exhaust noise from headers and valve train noise from big cams) as detonation and either give a false indication or they sense actual detonation mixed with normal engine noise and which the user sometimes discounts or misunderstands. We had a knock sensor with an dash-mounted indicator on Vette's Big-Block from Hell. We eventually deactiveated the system because it constantly indicating false knock above 5500 rpm when the engine made so much mechanical noise.
I have a knock sensor installed with a dash read out. At maximum sensitivity (on the sensor) I only get a medium knock indication at 6000-6500 RPM foot to the floor, otherwise zippo.
Again, a case of advanced technolgy sometimes not working as well as we expect. Virtually all aftermarket, oxygen-sensor driven AFR monitors use narrow-band O2Ses which are only accurate in a narrow band of readings where AFR is near stochiometric. On either the lean or rich side, they tend to be inaccurate such that I use them as "clues" to AFR but rely on other methods to determine exact AFR or benchmark its WOT calibration. That said, a 13:1 reading is a clue that your engine may be lean at WOT. I'd do some other testing, like on the chassis dyno or the race track to see if you've got WOT AFR right. Typically, it ends up 12.5-12.0:1.
I also have a AFR monitor installed. Running around 14.5 to 1 at cruise and 13 at WOT.
Hmm. 13.5 inhg ain't much. What's the engine's spark curve and does the Edelbrock cam have some advance machined into it or is it truly indexed at zero? Also, is this car an automatic or a stick and what axle ratio does it have?
It's much better but still has off the line stumble and light acceleration hesitation as well.
I get about 13.5 hg vacum at 950 rpm idle.
I say that because they are more difficult to modify and adjust than a Holley or an Edelbrock/AFB
I give up
Why are quadrajets so had to calabrate?
Sure... The original carb will take up a lot less space than some of the stupid stuff I have stored Besides this would be a good time to learn about the quad.. with a carb kit
Hi Mikey, sorry i did that, not very good on the computer still leaning, and know was just surpriced, at what people will pay for some items, approx i month ago, a 1939 41 chev,dash compass, sold for over $5000, more than 30 bid. regards wayne.You're digging up a post that's six years old.
What do you want to know about that eBay carb?
Other than 2 people that have more money than brains and the 'need' to have a correctly numbered carb, it's worth $25 as a trade in core just like the ten million Qjets in the world.