Quarter Panel- Removal and Replacement

[BLACK MOON]

I just received new quarter panels and was hopeing I could get some suggestions on proper removal and replacement. What brand panel adhesive works best? What cutting tool works best, etc?
Thank in advance.
Sal

 

[IH2LOSE]

I just received new quarter panels and was hopeing I could get some suggestions on proper removal and replacement. What brand panel adhesive works best? What cutting tool works best, etc?
Thank in advance.
Sal

Sal I never did this kind of work my self But Iam sure someone will be able to help you out ,I just wanted to let you know I wasnt ignoring you I just donrt have the knowledge

 

[JCkans]

Sal

Have used two types of adhesives in the past , SMC panel adhesive and
Duramix 1488 (2 part system) both can be purchased from any bodyshop supplier. SMC is my choice for 1/4 panel r and r. Which ever you choose play with it a few times to determine your setup time. The warmer it is outside the quicker it will go off.

My method of removing old quarter
1. Use DA sand (80 grit) paint along 1/4 exposing bond line
2. Cut an 1/8 inch deep (hot saw) line through bond line along 1/4
careful don't cut into bond strip
3. Lay your chisel in the groove begin tapping with hammer
Sharp wood chisel along with another chisel that has some flex slowly work them spliting the bond.
4. Once 1/4 is off take grinder lightly go over the half of bond strip that is exposed also go along top edge and lightly bevel.
5. Lightly grind top inside area of new 1/4 that will contact bond strip.
Same process lightly grind areas that that bond don't froget bondarea
behind wheel well that runs down.

Quater attachment
Don't be a hero get another set of hands to help you.
Do Not use screws or pop rivets to hold panel it will back back to haunt you.

1. Severl dry runs to make sure everything is fitting nicely.
Setting up clamps one at wheel well another angeling up for the bond strip
runing up and down and couple at the rear panel. Break a few pieces of a wooden paint stick place it on outside surface to keep clamps from indenting the glass that sounds strange but it can happen. The clamps do not need to be real tight.
Mixing smc get three pieces of cardboard put smc on three boards
when your ready mix hardner in on first board. Both of you begin to spread smc onto bond strips starting at opposite ends. .Don't be shy in spreading better excess than not enough. Third board is just case don't mix until you see the need. No time to chat much you have a short time frame.

As for the front section by the door have one or two flexable putty knives and maybe a screw driver. Tuck the front edge of the putty knive in under the rear edge of the door then by bending it back over the 1/4 then attack 2 inch tape to the top of the handle pulling it in towards the 1/4 and tape onto 1/4.
Along the top of 1/4 take a strip of two inch tape (3m) stick first to new 1/4
and by pressing in and pulling up stick to upper area does about every six inches.
Then wipe off excess adhisive. Carefull not to be the Hulk and start pounding
on 1/4 when fitting or you will have alot of extra fill.
Use lacq. thinner for clean up
This abv. somewhat but gives you a good idea.
Good Luck
JCkans

 

[BLACK MOON]

I used screws so I'm sure I'll be haunted. I also used bonding material from Volunteer Corvette Products. I seems to have worked well but even though I THOROUGHLY mixed it, it still is not rock hard. 24 hours and still a little plyable. Is this typical or do I have a bigger problem now?

Thanks for the info.

Sal

 

[67HEAVEN]

Maybe their product is slow to cure, but within a few hours you could pound on the Dominion Sure Seal stuff with a hammer and chisel. It does, however, retain some minor flexibility to ensure no cracks in the future.

:confused

 

[BLACK MOON]

Too bad I couldn't get the stuff anywhere, not even out of Atlanta.

 

[00fxd]

Blackmoon; could you get at the screws and back them out once everything is hardened? Then fill the holes.

 

[ChuckG]

Even if you remove the screws and/or pop rivets, the holes will come back to haunt you again and again. You'll have a line of pock marks, and that's a dead give-away for a replaced quarter panel. Just ask the guys with sharks who try to fill the holes for their luggage racks. Chuck

 

[JCkans]

Even if you remove the screws and/or pop rivets, the holes will come back to haunt you again and again. You'll have a line of pock marks, and that's a dead give-away for a replaced quarter panel. Just ask the guys with sharks who try to fill the holes for their luggage racks. Chuck

Has your bond adhisive dried?
? did you use a 2 part epoxy
If so you will probably need to undercut it some.
Then top coat with another type of filler.

As for the screws, after they are removed.
Two ways to repair but no guarantee,, shrinkage is the problem.

Open the screw hole up to about a 1/4 inch
bevel the top area (countersink).
You will need to buy smc panel adhisive sold in qt. , cures out very hard.
Make sure you mix the can resin will be on top.
Fill hole packing it as you go.
Let cure for 48 hours then sand slightly undercut.
Apply another thin fill over repair. You can use smc but it is much harder
than the fiberglass. Little harder to feather it out or use a good body filler such as Rage.

Open up screw hole use smc but add fiberglass mat cut no larger 1/8 inch
and strands pulled apart. Add this to smc before adding your hardner mix then
add hardner. Fill and pack wait 48 hrs at least.. Then apply another light fill
do not use mat in this.

Or go just with fiberglass mat but you can get into more trouble.

Then block and hopfully your ready to prime.
Don't forget to give your primer plenty of time to cure also.
The whole secret is letting things cure if you can wait longer than 48 hours great let set for a week.

If you like email me and i will send my phone #
Good Luck
jckans

 

[BLACK MOON]

Thanks for the advice. I pulled one panel off and remixed and rehung. It dried fairly hard but not rock solid. Does humidity make a difference?

How about using short strand 'Everglass' made by 'Evercoat'? Will it work as a filler? It seems to dry pretty hard. I did chamfer the holes and feather sand around them.

My next problem is the front fender repair panels purchased from 'Vanacor'. They are made wrong and I can't get the owner to call me back. I'm pretty ****ed about them right now.

Anyway thanks for the advice. Let me know what you think of the "Everglass" as a filler.

Sal

 

[JCkans]

Sal

Actually never used it but should be fine.