Question for painting gurus

[tboo]

Ive been working with my dad in fixing cars for several years. Ive noticed something whenever we have to paint a car. He will paint the car with a basecoat/clearcoat-then wet sand with 1000grit & finish with 2000grit. Then he will buff with compound & finish with a glaze. After this is done the paint looks great-until a few weeks later after the glaze has worn off-then the car has that "hazed" over dull look(the "haze" being the very fine scratches from the 2000grit wet sanding). The only way to keep it looking like factory is to buff with glaze(or apply a coat of wax). I dont have to do this with a factory paint job-if it gets dirty, just wash it & it looks great. I ask because we just finished a C5 that has the front painted. After a few weeks the front now has the "hazed" look compared to the rear factory paint. I can remedy this by applying the glaze or wax, but I would like to pick your brains on how we can remedy this where the front will look just as good as the rear without having to add glaze or wax every so many weeks. This is not just with this specific car-Ive noticed this on any car he paints. If you want I can try posting some pics
Thanks

 

[Redmanf1]

Is he using a wool pad? It is all right to use wool for the first buff but need to slow it down to about 1000 to 1200 rpm. It sounds like he might be buffing at to high of a speed. With 2000 grit I would probably not use wool because you will not that much cutting power. I would use the waffle pads. They make one for compound and one for polishing. Keep the speed down. I know when allot of people switched to base clear they were getting this haze and it was from buffing at to high of a speed and it over heats the paint. The only other thing that I can think of would be too much reducer. Reducers or thinners will bleed out and cause a dull effect. It is not uncommon to have to repolish after say 60 days the first time but it should not haze out after that. Hope this helps.

 

[69MyWay]

It depends on the products he uses as well.

3M makes a complete set of products to take you from the rough buff to the final polish for clear coat paint...light and dark colors (it makes a difference).

I used the perfect it for dark colors on my paint with the foam waffle pad specific for the final buff. After this is complete, it stays slick, and does not haze back.

Talk to your local auto paint company, invest the money in the good stuff, and you will see a better final result.