R-24 $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

[kingman]

Hi

I am familiar with the 94 getting the modern non freon a/c, but l was asked how much is it to refill a 93 with freon and l didn't have a clue!!!!!!

Anybody have it done lately??

Also what year did Corvette offer an auto vert top? C-5???????????

Alan

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

R12 Freon is market priced... runs between a low of $50/lb to as much as $100/lb, depending on quality and availability (and your local market), plus labor to check/charge the system.


YMMV

 

[kingman]

How many Lbs are needed?

What is the most that could be needed?

Thanks

Alan

 

[redvett]

If you want to keep the excellent cooling i suggest you stay with R12 because R134A isnt as efficent and the condenser is different. Also the accumulator
hoses & compresser are different.

 

[Vettefan87]

What about Freeze-12? rrubel just put some in his car and is very happy with it.

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

What is the most that could be needed?

Thanks

Alan

Maximum refrigerant charge is 2.25 lbs

 

[vetteboy86]

I am not 100% but I think they offered a power top on the C1 or C2. Dont quote me on it though. I know the C6 has that option.

 

[vetteboy86]

Okay I found it for sure it was offered in 56 and there were 2682 ordered that way. The were offered until 62 where only 350 were ordered.

 

[Tom73]

Also what year did Corvette offer an auto vert top? C-5???????????

Alan

That was an option in the C-1. Is now an option on the C-6. None in-between.

 

[stu]

Hi

I am familiar with the 94 getting the modern non freon a/c, but l was asked how much is it to refill a 93 with freon and l didn't have a clue!!!!!!

Alan

I just got an estimate for my 87 for a new compressor and refill. The sheet says $57 per pound for R12 or $45 for R134a. Since I know the problem is with the shaft seal on the compressor, and the rest of the system is fine, I decided to just replace the compressor and have it refilled with R12. The quote has 2.25lb for R12.

To convert it I would replace the dryer and seals along with the compressor, which would cost quite a bit more than the $10 per pound. Yes, I know that you don't have to replace the seals, but if I was going to have it done I'm the type who has to do everything.

 

[Tom73]

I just got an estimate for my 87 for a new compressor and refill. The sheet says $57 per pound for R12 or $45 for R134a.

Interesting, only $12.00/lb difference. At that there is no need to convert the system, so stay with what the system was designed for

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

Interesting, only $12.00/lb difference. At that there is no need to convert the system, so stay with what the system was designed for

That's a pretty fair price for R12, but the 134a prices have started back down again (maybe temporarily, tho). The main issue for R12 is availability, which of course sets the price.

To the poster who said he's replacing the compressor only...depending on how long the system's been empty/dormant, you really should replace the accumulator (drier). The accumulators job is to remove moisture from the system, and if the system has been open for any significant amount of time, the dessicant inside is most likely saturated and you'll have reduced cooling as a result. Additionally, you'll have the contaminents (corrosion from inside the tubes, etc.) floating around in your system, which can lead to both compressor or other component failure. This is why compressor manufacturers will not warranty a failed compressor unless the accumulator and/or orifice tube are replaced at the time of compressor replacement.

 

[stu]

That's a pretty fair price for R12, but the 134a prices have started back down again (maybe temporarily, tho). The main issue for R12 is availability, which of course sets the price.

To the poster who said he's replacing the compressor only...depending on how long the system's been empty/dormant, you really should replace the accumulator (drier). The accumulators job is to remove moisture from the system, and if the system has been open for any significant amount of time, the dessicant inside is most likely saturated and you'll have reduced cooling as a result. Additionally, you'll have the contaminents (corrosion from inside the tubes, etc.) floating around in your system, which can lead to both compressor or other component failure. This is why compressor manufacturers will not warranty a failed compressor unless the accumulator and/or orifice tube are replaced at the time of compressor replacement.

Thanks for the advice on the drier. When we hooked up the system to the tester in the shop we could see that it still had a little pressure so I don't think it was completely open. I'll bring it up when I take the car in on Friday.

 

[tyrel]

If you want to keep the excellent cooling i suggest you stay with R12 because R134A isnt as efficent and the condenser is different. Also the accumulator
hoses & compresser are different.

The compressor is the same for 88-96, the nippondenso 10pa20c. The dessicant used in accumulators can be used for R12 or R134a. The hoses are the same too, so is the condenser. R134a doesn't cool as well as R12 this is true, but the difference in temps is negligible, within a few degrees.