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Radiator & support are in...

lone73

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
456
Location
Texas
Corvette
'73 4spd coupe, '04 6 speed coupe
Just thought I'd post a few things I learned for the sake of the archives if nothing else.

I was on the fence on whether to buy the aluminum rad from one of the hot rod parts suppliers (Northern I think it was?) or stay with a stock style. I finally decided to stick with stock as I don't have too much free time to modify brackets to make a generic radiator work. I found the cheapest radiator from Advance and ordered it, $250 plus tax. Took about 3 days. It was a chinese knockoff but I didn't care as long as it worked and fit. Well, I got half of what I was after. It does work. The support came from TLD and is what you get these days for a '73 with center mount shroud bracket. I ended up having to drill out the two center mounting holes to make it work and buy a couple of nuts to run the bolts into. Not a big deal really.

The major surpirse was with the radiator. It was the correct part for a '73 to '77 but the lower hose connection was pretty far from being pointed in the right direction to make it work with a stock '73 shroud. Maybe the later shrouds and connection are a bit different, maybe the chinese dude that welded this pup together was havin' a bad day. Either way I was faced with returning it for a refund or trying to get it modified. I decided on the later since I was in a hurry (as usual). I took it out to a shop still bolted to the support along with my shroud and had him correct the angles on the outlet. He only charged me 30 bucks and did a pretty decent job. Two angles had to change, had to desolder it and swing it down then relax the bend in the tube . It was nearly a 90 degree bend. It was also a welded two piece outlet as opposed to being bent on a machine like an exhaust pipe would be bent, like the original.

After I got it home and got the rest of the foam seals on it I tried to install it and discovered that there was no way I would be able to do it w/out removing the headlight vacuum cans. I was just banging up the fins on the condensor with them in there. Got those out and the radiator/support assembly dropped in without too much trouble.

As an aside, I did find as I was reassembling the support/condensor/radiator asembly that there is quite a bit of space around the a/c condensor that will allow air to bypass it. I felt that this might be partially to blame for the poor cooling problems that most folks experience with C3's. I went ahead and added foam strips around the top, right side and bottom of the condensor so that (almost) every bit of air that the fan draws thru the shroud would be forced thru the condensor also. Haven't had a chance to recharge the a/c and check it out yet but when/if I do in the next few months I'll definitely report back if anyone is interested. My a/c is converted over to 134 and (when it worked) was only fair in its cooling ability. It is still a VIR system also.

The upshot of all this is that I'm not sure it would have taken any longer to install the aluminum generic given the trouble I had with the "stock" radiator. If I had to do it again I would probably try out the aluminum one.

regards
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I tried blocking the air around the condensor coil like you did--what happened is that the car started running hot on the highway with the a/c on. I removed the foam and the temps are back to normal now. There was no difference in a/c cooling either way. I run R409a with VIR which doesn't heat the coil like R134a does (lower head pressure), so, you might get even worse overheating with the a/c on than I did.

Now, the increased air flow to the condensor coil is only necessary at idle--what I did was to install an auxilliary fan from an '81 'vette. The fan turns on whenever my foot is on the brake and the a/c on. I put a 20 second off delay relay in to prevent the fan from over/short-cycling. So, when I'm at a light, the aux fan is on. When I get going again, the fan cuts off after 20 seconds.

I radiator tech showed me what's wrong with those Chinese radiators: if you look in it, you'll see there's a lot of excess solder covering the coolant flow channels--some will even be blocked. Look and see then post back.

American radiators are still a superior quality product whether you get copper or aluminum. I re-cored my 4-core radiator instead of replacing it--however, eventually there's an aluminum radiator in my future unless the new high-tech copper ones are out and reasonably priced by then.

 
Interesting idea about the '81 fan. I've been thinking about that. If I put in fans it'll probably be dual flex-a-lite's though.

As far as the radiator being blocked, the guy at the rad shop I went to to get the outlet corrected told me the radiator was the better brand of those available from chinese suppliers and elsewhere that supply bare core's. He showed me a new core from the same company he was about to install the tanks on. He said he always uses that brand for recore's because they were the best quality for the money (from the chinese that is), he was surprised they missed the outlet angles so much. I'll pop the cap off and take a look inside it though.

I don't think I'll have any troubles with over heating. I've already been driving it two weeks w/out prob's. I wanted to drive it before I posted this to see how things worked out. Like I said above though, no a/c yet. I never have had any heating issues with this car, in fact, it shows to run cold with a 180 deg stat. Probably the gage needs to be calibrated. Thanks for sharing your experiences with me ... :)
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I did have the dual Flex-A-Lites (210's) for 6 months. but I found the underhood temperatures got too high for my liking so I got rid of them. I swear you couldn't touch anything under the hood--too damn hot! The coolant temperature was fine, but with the electric fans, there just wasn't enough air flow to cool the rest of the engine compartment.

I hope you don't have the problem, but just in case you do: The condensor coil puts out more heat than you would believe--keep an eye on the coolant temperature when you get the a/c hooked up. The coil will stay hot for a few miles even after shutting off the compressor, so don't wait till the temp gets close the red area to shut off the a/c.

My coolant system is totally new and improved and yet I still had the overheating problem when the a/c was on. My system: Re-cored 4-core radiator, new Edelbrock water pump, new hoses, new Robertshaw high volume 180F thermostat, new fan/clutch/shroud, new seals, new engine and new aluminum intake manifold.
 
radiator

I got mine from a local radiator shop, he said mine was gone, ask him what he could get one for, 175.00, the only thing was it seemed to be a hair long, but got it in works great, not sure i got all the seals right , runs a little hotter then the old one, has to be the seals, my manural wasnt clear on the way they went,my bad for not looking better then i did when removing it, anyone han good pics on how they go send them, for now iam going to a 180 or lower to see what happens, it realy dont run to much hotter but, after seeing it run 195, the 200 bothers me, would like to see it run right around 190 or so.
Oh buy the way , iam keeping the vette, just cant part with it, the Harley is going tomorrow, to many toys around here to keep up, ride that bike less then driving the vette so its gone,lol .
 
I had the same problem with an aftermarket radiator. The inlet and outlet elbows are 90* and not sweeping 90* , like the factory radiators had. I had the original elbows fitted to the new radiator & pressure tested it to solve the problem. $50 charge in my case.
 

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