Re-skinning a 62 trunk lid

[IH2LOSE]

As some of you may have noticed at carlilse My trunk lids fiberglass is rupturing again.

I have looked at several used trunk lids and all of the ones I found had a ton of sins under the paint,

Over the summer I had aquired a NOS trunk skin.

At Carlilse I found a cheap ($50.00) trunk lid with a perfect frame but a bad skin on it.

So now the time has come for me to join them together

Any suggestions on how to remove the skin from the excisting good frame I want to re-use

 

[John Mcgraw]

Larry, a good sharp putty knife, a hammer and lots of patience. You will be amazed how easily the skin will come off once you start to split it at the bonding joint. I


Regards, John McGraw

 

[firstgear]

As some of you may have noticed at carlilse My trunk lids fiberglass is rupturing again.

I have looked at several used trunk lids and all of the ones I found had a ton of sins under the paint,

Over the summer I had aquired a NOS trunk skin.

At Carlilse I found a cheap ($50.00) trunk lid with a perfect frame but a bad skin on it.

So now the time has come for me to join them together

Any suggestions on how to remove the skin from the excisting good frame I want to re-use

YIKES!!!!!!

 

[IH2LOSE]

John

Once I get it off and clean up the frame surface

when bonding the new skin to the frame I plan on using the new 2 part 3M stuff (thats mixed in the gun) and then using a plastic squeege to level it

then I plan on setting the lid frame down on my saw hourse and weighting the skin with some sand bags

Is this how you would do it.

I skinned hundreds of doors,hoods,trunks but all metal stuff this will be my first fiberglass skinning. I am hoping to get it done this week end

 

[John Mcgraw]

Larry,

I have never used the gun-applied adhesive, but I know a lot of guys swear by it. I would use a pretty quick cure time formula, and I have never flattened out the adhesive. I just apply a good bead of adhesive and let the clamping force extrude it out of the gap. While the adhesive is still not quite hard, I trim away the excess with an exacto knife and razor scraper. I have allways just used the polyester bonding adhesive, but I am sure that the two-component, gun applied system by either 3M or Fusor will work quite fine.


Regards, John McGraw

 

[Tom Bryant]

Make sure you buy the right formula as there are several different ones. It depends on what you are bonding and whether it's structural or not. Also they have a compressed thinkness that is required for a good bond. Some of them have beads in the mix that hold the 2 surfaces apart the required amount when clamped.