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rear end problem

LanceB

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2003
Messages
455
Location
Louisville
Corvette
1981
On my 77, passenger side yoke is coming out of differential. I am assuming some kind of clip is off that needs to hold it in. I was contemplating pulling the cover off of the differential and trying to reattach or at least see what is really going on. Maybe a winter project, but torn on what kind of can of worms it could turn out to be. Any feedback is appreciated.
 
Lance,

There is a clip back there and your diagnosis is probably right on. Unfortunately it is not just a simple matter of pulling the cover. You have to pull the differential to get the cover off.

Sounds unlikely that there is anyway around this. I would take a good look at rebuilding the complete differntial while you have it out of the car.

Bob
 
Thanks, that was what I was afraid of. Probably a pretty labor intensive job to drop the differential.
 
It will take some time but it doesn't appear to be all that technically difficult. The attachments to the diff have to come off, drive and half shafts, springs, front diff bushing, and strut rods come to immediate mind, support the diff, remove two bolts and drop it down. The bushings around the two bolts can be a bear. You usually have to pry or use a puller to get the cross member to drop down off them.
 
As Bob said it's not just a quick check like "normal" cars! I was told the mid to late 70's differential yoke supplier had a problem with the correct hardness on the ends and these years wear quicker. I don't know how true that was but I do know I changed few of the later year yokes and they were worn badly.
The new dimension on a yoke should be .187" from the end tothe snap ring groove. If you measure under .040" I'd leave it alone,but if you measure more or if you can measure with a scale then you have problems.
A lot of guys ask me how they can do it without spending money,usually first timer owners. Well guys there's hardly anything on a vette that can be done for little money,BUT you can do a lot yourself if you know what to look for and have good tools.

If the yokes are badly worn,then the end of the yoke has been ground down to dust and there's no place for it to go but into the oil and through the bearings and gears. There is no original drain plug so you have to vacuum out the old oil and this doesn't always get the "sludge" out. I recoomend to friends and customers to go through the differential at this point to save on future work. A lot of guy will just change the oil and replace the yokes and not have a problem. I like to know things are new and setup in a job like this.

I wrote a paper on this job that I will galdly email to you to read over. Then you can decide just what you want to do. If you would like a copy pm me your email address and I'll get you one.

When I rebuild them I always tap them for a drain plug too,unless the owner doesn't want it. Sure makes life easier on the next oil PM.

Let me know if I can help.

Gary
 
Thanks for the replies. If it was my own car (and not my brothers), I would have probably torn into it by now. I am trying to talk him into digging into it, but I think he is afraid we will bite off more than we can chew.
 
yokes

Lance,

While you're cogitating on it. take a look at this site...
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/6link/index.html

I have had this setup on my '73 and its a driver. Been on for a few years now and about 40K - 50K miles I'd guess. I think I'm now qualified to give a long term report on the modification. Suffice it to say that if I had to do it again I would. I have eliminated the problem your addressing forever, added upper control arm adjustability, reduced u-joint load and wear, eliminated metal on metal wear inside the diff from the yokes and increased control over the rear camber and toe. Just a thought...

good luck with it.
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C3 6-Link

I paid a guy in Canada about $350 for my setup and it included a set of VB adjustable lower struts that he wanted to get rid of. He is the only one who is making them that I know of. It is also bolt-on, no welding needed. I can get you his info, if you want it e-mail me.
 

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