Rear Main Seal

[cwerve74]

I am about to replace the two part rear main seal on this 75 - 454. The instructions have one point that I don't understand and hope someone can give me some advice. The step in the instructions I don't understand is:

Apply a thin, even coat of anaerobic sealer to the ends of the seal and also the block surface adjoining the seal where the bearing cap touches it. Don't get any sealer on the bearing face, crankshaft journal, seal ends or seal lips.

1)Whattype of sealer are they talking about? ?anaerobic?

2) They use the term seal end in both sentences but I think they are two different parts of the seal. Can someone clarify that point?

 

[JonM]

You just need a little dab on each end of the gasket (4 surfaces) where they will meet.

 

[cwerve74]

cool, I have never seen that name on gasket material. I understood the term anaerobic to be "without oxygen". I am on my way to NAPA to get some. The placement of the material is as if you are completing the circle with the two halfs of the seal. Thanks, That task is on deck as soon as UPS gets here with my oil pan.

 

[vette-dude]

On a two piece seal it is better to offset the ends past the parting line. In other words rotate the seal (slightly) till one end is below the block parting line and the other is sticking out the other side. Do the reverse in the cap so it will match and apply the sealer to the parting line of the block where the cap fits. Don't goop it on just a thin coat. Using this method you will not have a seal end at the block/cap parting line.

Randy

 

[JonM]

I concur with Randy, You will get a better seal that way.

Their is also a plastic sleave on the oil pump you should replace...I think they cost 50 cents...Auto Zone had one for mine.

 

[cwerve74]

Thanks for the tip on the plastic sleave. I will be sure to get one.

My real fear on this oil leak repair project is that when I open up the oil pan I will find yet one more project to work on. This whole thing started with new bushings for the front suspention. I added the power steering rebuild, the oil pan replace due to large dent in the bottom and since I was in there..... I need to stop finding stuff and get this thing back on the road the weather is getting good.

 

[JonM]

Thanks for the tip on the plastic sleave. I will be sure to get one.

My real fear on this oil leak repair project is that when I open up the oil pan I will find yet one more project to work on. This whole thing started with new bushings for the front suspention. I added the power steering rebuild, the oil pan replace due to large dent in the bottom and since I was in there..... I need to stop finding stuff and get this thing back on the road the weather is getting good.

You have to remove the oil pump anyway...this is just a plastic sleeve that encompasses the oil pump shaft joint. This really isn't a big job...just make sure you keep things clean and torque everything down...

Welcome to the world of "You might as well...If I've gone this far"

One other point...NOTE the direction of the old seal when you remove it and put the new back in the same way.

 

[drags1998]

Everyone has given good advice, I know you said you have spent enough on one thing after another. If the oil press. is OK your all set, if not do the oilpump while your in there!!!

 

[cwerve74]

drags1998
OK, would that be a rebuild effort or new parts for the oil pump?
The oil pressure I am not sure of. Start her up and the pressures is max reading, 100% to the right. After warm up it is at the 25% postion. RPM's go up pressure jumps back to max. I had put that issue on the "B" list. Had attributed that to a sending unit or somthing simple like a bad ground. Not in a position to run the engine now to test.

Is there an inspection methode to check oil pump? You are correct I will have the pump out of the car to do the rear main seal. If it is a rebuild I could add that if it is straight forward just to be pro-active.

Edit: Just looked ... Oil pump is not that expensive. What is the difference between the High performance pump $37 and the regular pump $27 for a 454 engine? Why do I want one over the other?

 

[JonM]

I wouldn't go high performance pump with just a regular oil pan...you could suck the pan clean of oil...just my 2c

 

[brusso]

I'd just replace with the $27 pump. As far as inspection goes, you could disassemble the old pump and look at the walls of the pump and check for scoring. If I saw scoring, I wouldn't be too concerned about the engine. The pump pumps unfiltered oil so any debris that may have scored it should have been trapped by the filter. I take that back, if there is debris in the pan, it came from somewhere.

 

[GerryLP]

Thanks for the tip on the plastic sleave. I will be sure to get one.

My real fear on this oil leak repair project is that when I open up the oil pan I will find yet one more project to work on. This whole thing started with new bushings for the front suspention. I added the power steering rebuild, the oil pan replace due to large dent in the bottom and since I was in there..... I need to stop finding stuff and get this thing back on the road the weather is getting good.

We've all been there, pal! Its the nature of the beast. At least you'll get the satisfaction on the knowledge you'll learn and the pride that you did most of it.

 

[vette-dude]

Forget the plastic sleeve on the oil pump and replace the whole oil pump drive shaft with a steel sleeved drive component. About $12 from anywhere. Just a suggestion especially if you are going to run a High volume pump. Extra safety on a standard pump.


Randy