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rear spring install one person job?

billyvette

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2003
Messages
155
Location
mississippi
Corvette
78 s/a paint with oyster leather l82 auto
I need to replace the rear spring on my 78, can one person do this with the car on jackstands? I am looking at a compostite one leaf rear spring since originality is not an issue. I want good handling, but not too stiff ride. Most of my driving is on the public road and not racing.

Suggestions, advice and helpful hints appreciated.
 
I installed mine in my garage by myself after I rebuilt the rear suspension. Not to bad of a job. I have an older VBP spring. I don't remember the rating of the spring it was on the car when I got it. The car is at the painter or I would go out and look for you. My spring is a little to light in my opinion. It seems a little too soft for me.
 
yes it can be done like eddie said by yourself.Im using the vb&p also but in a 360#,its alittle stiff but thats what i was looking for.It also sat up too high and i had to use the vb&p bolts to bring it back down.
 
As already stated, it is a do it yourself job. I put a composite spring in mine but had it split lengthwise shortly after driving. While I was waiting for the replacement, I reinstalled the original steel leaf spring and liked it more. It has a softer ride and it seemed to sit better. When you switch springs be sure to use the correct length bolts in the differential cover. If you over torque over length bolts they can crack your cover. Didn't happen to me as I learned from another's bad experience. I also am using a home made steel plate to center the spring, so bolt length changed.
 
Well like said above, it's not that hard to to. I replaced the steel spring on my 78 in a day. One thing to remember is that after putting a few miles on it go back and retorque the bolts.


Gary
 
Some things to thin about when changing a spring.

1- SAFETY - there's lot of stored energy in the springs, so be sure to follow the removal procedures to the letter.
2- weight- steel weight about 40 lbs, 'glass about 8lbs
3-replacement steel in oem configurations no longer avail- one possiblity is Eaton Spring but I haven't seen one yet.
4- every aftermarket steel I used needed the 8" bolts to get the rear of the car back to a normal ride height. I don't like the 'glass springs. They cost twice the price,rid ehigh too, and Ihear of too many stories if them breaking especially near heat of pipes.
5- as stated be careful torquing the 4 mounting bolts,is common to break the ears on the rear cover if not done correctly. To replace a rear cover you should remove the differential.
6- I used the HD rear covers and found them good but have had to check the bolt pattern center to center distance. Some have been off a little requiring the spring and/or the spring plate to be modifed(ground radius reliefs in)
7- replace the rubber cushions whiel you're there

I think thats it unless I forgot something.
 
Did the rear spring by myself. A couple of points I would pass along.

Put a good size C-clamp on the spring 4-5 inches from the end. good & tight. Then using a floor jack to the outside of the clamp , raise up the spring to unload the end-bolt. Lots of energy in the spring and a lot of travel. The clamp keeps the jack from running up the spring as you lower it and the angle changes. Then do it to the other side. Be careful/safe and it will work out fine
.
Use the instruction that come with your new spring. You may need the weight of the car on the spring to do the final torque of the attachment bolts. The instructions should cover that.

You will need to remove the exhaust to do the work.

You may need to get a 24 inch breaker bar for your sockets if you don't already have one. I look at that possibility as a plus.

BTW I put a new steel spring on mine & I like the results.
 
thanks for all the details guys, i really appreciate them, who else has had trouble with fiberglass springs? Shoukd I use steel instead?
 
-Go MonoLeaf my friend...

:w -put a glass-resin spring on my '80-C3 with no problems, be sure to install the heat-shield to prevent exhaust-heat :mad damage; --the Monoleaf-spring significantly aids handling by reducing the unsprung-weight, also install the weakest (low spring-rate) you can find, owing that the spring is really only there to hold-up the body basically, you then gain precision control via good Shocks and anti-sway Torsion-bar-- NOT Spring stiffness!!! ---that way you net a soft-ride and great handling...:eyerole
~Bob Vonheck
 
My 78 had a fiberglass spring on when I bought it. I replaced it with steel. i like the steel better. The others only have a 5 year warranty and don't like heat. Heat weakens the spring and what runs just an inch away from the spring. Both exhuast pipes. Steel cost a 1/3 less as well.

I just got another 78 and the rear spring is bad. Well after 25 years I guess it is time to replace it. Steel will be going back in. The steel springs wieght more and don't look as cool, but I believe they last a lot longer and cost less when you do buy a new one.

Just my .02 worth.

Gary
 
GARY, glad to hear you got your new project. i'd like to see what it looks like. any plans for another Daytona ?
have you ever of a company called TRS ? my rear sprong has those initals stenciled on it. curious to find any info. my spring is too stiff ,the back stands up a bit more than i like

best to all

Robin
 
Robin,


Yes, i have heard of them, but don't remember much if anything about TRS. Refreash my mind a bit and maybe it will come back to me. It's hell to get older, that "CRS" will get you every time. I just took a couple of pictures, so I'll E mail them to you.

The new vette has "Y" pipes front and rear with a cat. This has got to go soon. It all new from the header pipes bacl to the tips, but it just doesn't sound like a vette should. It not bad, but after having a 400sb with Hooker Side Pipes. Well you know.

Best to you & yours,

Gary
 
Billyvette,
Spring replacement is by far one of the easiest jobs that can be done on a vette.

1) Buy new spring and bolts and hardware set.
2) Jack the rear end up and place it on jack stands.
3) Take the tires off.
4) Support the end of the old spring with a jack.
5) HACKSAW the trailing arm bolts off the spring ends.
6) Lower the jack to remove tension from the spring.
7) Do the other side.Same way.
8) Remove the four mounting bolts from the center mount.
9) Slide the spring out the wheel well.
10) Put in new spring and reverse the order to install.
11) Adjust nuts on trailing arm bolts to level the rear end.
 
robin74 said:
GARY, glad to hear you got your new project. i'd like to see what it looks like. any plans for another Daytona ?
have you ever of a company called TRS ? my rear sprong has those initals stenciled on it. curious to find any info. my spring is too stiff ,the back stands up a bit more than i like

best to all

Robin
I think you'll find that the stencil is "JRS", not "TRS" - that's John R. Spring Service, in Warren, Michigan ( http://www.johnrspring.com/ ) - they make most of the reproduction springs the Corvette vendors sell; almost all of them cause excessive rear ride height with the stock end link bolts, which is why the vendors sell the "long" spring end link bolts with the Nylok nuts so you can adjust the ride height.
:beer
 
JOHN, thank you very much . i thought that was a dead-end question. i guessed wrong!

i do appreciate the answer

Robin
 

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