Ok how hard is it to replace the rear strut rod bushings on a 77?
Are there any tricks I should know, like do this or it will take your head off ? Can I mark the cam adjusters then just put them back to where the marks are?
I replaced the whole rod with the Vette Brake Products adjustables, not the smart struts, for about $100 from The Last Detail. The only hard part is removing the shock mounts. Get your castle nut off and go to the hardware store and get several of the same size. Soak the mounting in a good penetrating oil for several hours, put two nuts on the end of the threaded assembly locked together and wack it pretty good. It will eventually come out.
I guess you could mark the cam adjusters but I wasn't sure when the read had last been adjusted and went for an alignment.
Oh yeah, replace your shocks while your at it unless you know how long they have been on the car. A pair of good shocks will only cost about $60 and make a big difference.
The hardest part is getting the strut's off. Wouldn't make much sense marking the camber eccentrics, because with the bushing change, you'll likely change the rear alignment, and will need it done again. You can do it yourself with a carpenter's level, but that's another discussion.
Once you've knocked the lower shock mounts off, you'll need to remove the old bushings. The original bushings in original strut rods that I'm familiar with are rubber with a center steel sleeve. The rubber is pressed directly into the hole in the strut rod.
The replacements have an OUTER steel sleeve too. Once you've burned/cut the old ones out, you can press the new ones in using a bench vise and some sockets. Not too tough. You'll find it very tough to get the lower shock mounts off....you'll learn some new "cuss words" doing that part of the job. Chuck
Chuck, now that you've mentioned it, HOW do you re-align the rear? i want to lower thr back end slightly and i am not sure what sequence i should take to get things back to correct...
If I'm going to "mess" with the rear camber adjustments, I take a carpenter's level. I use a piece of wood that will touch the rim only on the top and bottom...not the tire. I'll take a "reading" prior to disassembling anything.
When I re-assemble it, after I let the weight settle, I "set" it to my prior reading.
John is right. To to it correctly, go to a shop that can do 4 wheel alignment on Corvettes. You'll pay, but it's worth it. Chuck
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Chuck
