rear wheel bearing

[paulj1x]

After some spirited mountain driving I now have an intermittent thunking at low speeds which seems to occur with each revolution of the rear passenger wheel. This wheel seemed hotter after the run and also smelled a little like something was burning and there is also now some side to side play in this wheel. I'm guessing that it is a wheel bearing however the thunking does not get better or worse if I am doing hard left or right turns. I'm going to take things apart tomorrow but I thought I would ask a couple of questions.
Could it be anything besides the rear wheel bearing?
Does the entire hub have to be replaced or can just the bearing be replaced?
Other than visually looking at the bearing is there any other way to test it?
Any other tips?
Many thanks!
paul

 

[paulj1x]

I finally got it out, what a miserable job! Had to fight every bolt and every nut every step of the way. And just when you think you're on the home stretch the last three bolts are Torx 50! (or maybe Torx 55?) Two of them I only partially killed myself over trying to get them out without stripping them, the third is recessed and I got it out just enough to put some mondo channel locks on it before stripping it, I was very close to needing to use an easy-out. Why would anybody use a Torx for something that size??

The hub seems to be a sealed assembly with no real way to open it up, so there's no way to inspect the bearings. Putting only hand pressure on it the thing feels fine. I kinda hate to buy something that expensive without verifying that it is at fault, on the other hand I don't see what else the problem could be.

paul

 

[racecar]

Sorry that your question has not been answered.
You probably have it fixed by now. I have had the same problem with a C4 and I know what you mean about those big torx head
bolts. Just when you think that it is going to strip out, it cracks loose. That sounds like the same wheel bearing unit as C4, they are not servicable, they have to be replaced. I used 1 or 2 sets a year for road racing. They only way to check the play, is with the wheel on.
If you can feel much movement (1/8" at the tire tread) with the car jacked up, it is time to replace it.
On a street car they usually last a long time, maybe yours was just a little loose, or it has hit a curb or been damaged.
It will feel like a new car with a new wheel bearing.
I'm not an expert on C5's but I hope this helps.

 

[mick_s3]

I noticed last week that while braking I was getting a scratching, metal on metal sound coming from the driver's side, rear. I assumed that the brakes where on the warning tabs.

So I bought all new rotors and ceramix pads and installed them this morning. It didn't fix the problem. I swear the sound is exactly like warning tab on rotor and only happens when braking, the harder I brake the louder and more grating the sound. If I brake very gradually and over a long distance (applying very minimal brake pedal pressue) the noise is very faint.

I am assuming this must be the rear wheel bearing. Anyone have any other ideas I should run down before embarking on replacing the rear wheel bearing?

Are the Autozone/Timkin bearings ok to use or should I go ahead and use the AC-Delco bearings.

Also, should I do both sides while I am at it or should I just do the side that is making the horrible noise?



thanks!!

 

[whipperdecon]

Ac Delco do not make the bearing in the first place .Chances are its a Timkin or SKF bearing anyway