Rear wiring harness on a 66 vert

[youwish2bme]

I have the tank and rear end completely disassembled and I was going to pull the rear wiring harness out today but I'm unsure as to where the harness disconnects at? Is it just inside the rear compartment or does it run all the way to the front and disconnect from the fuse block area? Thanks guys.. Dave..

 

[67HEAVEN]

I have the tank and rear end completely disassembled and I was going to pull the rear wiring harness out today but I'm unsure as to where the harness disconnects at? Is it just inside the rear compartment or does it run all the way to the front and disconnect from the fuse block area? Thanks guys.. Dave..

Dave,

It runs way forward to the fuse panel area....sorry to say.

 

[youwish2bme]

Bob that's not what I wanted to hear... :ugh Anyone care to try again..:L

Oh well guess I'll be beginning my interior resto sooner than I had thought.. Well I'll take a look at it tomorrow and decide if I'm going to start removing the interior... I guess it's a good thing that I got my door panels and carpet from Al Knoch at the Corvette Expo... Dave...

 

[67HEAVEN]

If you taking out the harness, you'll have to remove the metal cover that runs inboard of the doorsill (under the carpet). The harness travels through there.

If you had a coupe, I'd remind you that the dome light wire runs off the same harness up behind the driver's seat pillar. I don't know about convertibles....never owned one....maybe some day.

For those with a '67, the parking brake light wire runs from this same harness across the floor from the center doorsill area to the parking brake lever area.

 

[youwish2bme]

Is that plate bolted in or riveted? Dave

 

[Gasman]

Just a few scews hold the cover plate.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Actually, the plate is held in place by several metal clips, about 12-15 inches apart. The clips are flat riveted to the floor.


If you take care, you can pop the plate loose without damaging the clips, but it's not easy until you've done it a few times.

 

[ctjackster]

Actually, the plate is held in place by several metal clips, about 12-15 inches apart. The clips are flat riveted to the floor.


If you take care, you can pop the plate loose without damaging the clips, but it's not easy until you've done it a few times.

?? Door sill plates are held down by, in your case (66), six screws per side (4 per side in 63-64)

 

[67HEAVEN]

?? Door sill plates are held down by, in your case (66), six screws per side (4 per side in 63-64)

I don't think we're talking about the door sill plate here. :confused

 

[ctjackster]

I see that now, you are ahead of me, after having removed the door sill plate, to the carpet support - wire covers. On my 65 I don't recall these being all that problematic to deal with, but your results may vary, of course.

 

[BarryK]

I see that now, you are ahead of me, after having removed the door sill plate, to the carpet support - wire covers. On my 65 I don't recall these being all that problematic to deal with, but your results may vary, of course.

i had to remove that wire chanel cover on the drivers side of my '65 to replace the rear blower control cable. it was a ***** to remove but that was my car and yours may be easier. I'm sure it didn't help that i had never removed that cover before, wasn't quite sure how the clips were holding it in, and i was working under lousy lighting in a dark garage at the time so i'm sure a lot of the problem i had getting my cover off was my own lack of expertise.

 

[Geek's 65]

I agree with 67 Heaven in that the clips are easier than they appear once you figure them out. Took me about 40 min to take the rear wiring harness out. There is a courtesy light back there in the boot where the top folds into on a 65 (at least there was on mine) but it's no real deal - just unclips. The good news is that after you get the wire up to the left kick panel, the connector is right there and you don't have to mess with the fuse panel.