Reassembly - Anti-sieze on fasteners?

[Full_Blown]

Well, I've just about completely disassembled my 79 except for the frame. I've painted all the brackets, forgings, drive train, spindles etc with a good coat of rust paint. My question is: Can I use an anti-sieze compound on all the fasteners when I reassemble everything? Are there particular areas I should avoid it's use? Whta's best to use: Anti-Sieze, white grease, other?

Thanks for your experience

Steve

 

[Chas]

Depends...

Anti-sieze on the stuff that gets in contact with coolant and wetness...but you will need loc-tite also for stuff.....get the right stuff there also...some of it is really hard to break free after it sets.
Its gonna be a long summer for you with out your vette bud....Good luck.
Chas

Well, I've just about completely disassembled my 79 except for the frame. I've painted all the brackets, forgings, drive train, spindles etc with a good coat of rust paint. My question is: Can I use an anti-sieze compound on all the fasteners when I reassemble everything? Are there particular areas I should avoid it's use? Whta's best to use: Anti-Sieze, white grease, other?

Thanks for your experience

Steve

 

[ness5353]

anti seize

I work in heavy construction and we use anti seize on almost everything we disassemble. I use it at home as well. It makes a mess if your not careful.

 

[bill81vette]

...but you will need loc-tite also for stuff.....get the right stuff there also...some of it is really hard to break free after it sets.
Its gonna be a long summer for you with out your vette bud....Good luck.
Chas

the blue loctite will break free easier than the red loctite...fyi.. bill

 

[Roy]

Do Not Use Anti-Sieze Compound

I recommend that you not use anti-sieze compound when you reassemble parts. If your fasteners, nuts, bolts, lock rings are new or in good shape, use them clean and dry and apply the correct torque.

Using anti-sieze is not necessary, will throw off your torque readings and will only make the parts more prone to loosening. There are some applications that require anti-sieze or locktite, but don't use either product in applications that do not require it.

The nuts, bolts and fasteners went in clean and dry and properly torqued at the factory unless a special application was called for, so why mess with success?

Roy
Portland, Oregon

 

[jz7p6t]

Use Anti-Seize if you ever want to take it apart again

I've taken enough cars/trucks apart and broke or torched off enough bolts that I'd never reassemble without using Anti-Seize. If you live somewhere where there is NO Rust or corrosion then you might not need it but anywhere else you will.
Better still is to use Stainless Steel fasteners with Anti-Seize (required to prevent galling). For Grade 8 SS bolts, you'll need ARP bolts as most standard SS bolts are only Grade 5.
I do agree that the Factory did not use Anti-Seize on any bolts but they didn't because of the cost and not many care what happens after 10 years. A little (at the factory) would have saved me the time/cost of replacing shock brackets on my '80.
If I take it apart then I always use Anti-Seize when I put it back together and it doesn't matter what it is - car, atv, tractor, etc.
You can use Anti-Seize with Locking Nuts, I do it all the time.
And if you are ever bolting something into Aluminum, you really need Anti-Seize on the bolts or the galvanic action of steel/aluminum can corrode the aluminum threads until only powder is left. And then it's HeliCoil time.

 

[4 webers]

JZ7 is quite right , I spent 45 years in the trade and never seize was a blessing when it arrived on the scene . No more stuck or rusted fasteners and on exhaust it just can't be believed ! As far as torque ratings go critical fasteners are rated by the manufacturer with readings for dry or lubed specs !


gman

 

[Robin7TFour]

HELLO, here at Disney World,we use various kinds of lock-tite for holding regular nuts .or self-locking and prevailing torque nuts . and anti-seize on anything not using lock-tite.ESPECIALLY.stainless steel.


Robin

 

[norvalwilhelm]

I never install a dry bolt, never, even sheet metal screws get a dab of something. My car comes apart regularly, almost everything is routinely inspected and besides using anti seize, vacuum grease, ordinary grease and loctite I make a regular habit of running taps through the various threaded holes to clean up the thread.
Most torque specs are also for a lubricated fastener anyway.
Most of my fasteners are upgraded to grade 8 or better anyway.
I like the gold color of the new bolts. LOL

 

[80convertible]

I replace everything with stainless steel unless it is part of suspension or frame or heavy duty application. The guys at the hardware store know me quite well. I use anti-sieze on anything that is exposed to moisture although I only drive my vette on warm dry days. I've spent way to much time removing rusty bolts over the last five years. Someone used red loctite on half my car, and I had the hardest time removing these bolts. I remember having to take the car to the shop so they could use their power tools just to remove caliper bolts due to locktite. I hope to invest in a compressor and impact tools soon!

I do have a question...are stainless steel bolts grade 3 or 5 as I have been told both?

 

[JohnZ]

Most catalog stainless bolts ("dress-up" bolts), unless specifically noted otherwise, are Grade 2, about the same strength as lag bolts used on farm gate hinges, and should NEVER be used in any suspension, steering, or brakes application.

Stainless bolts from specialty fastener manufacturers (like ARP, SPS, etc.) are 170,000 psi tensile strength or more (better than Grade 8), and are bulletproof - and expensive.

Scares me silly (after 37 years of dealing with high-stress fasteners and specialized torque tooling to install them) to see cars at shows with Grade 2 stainless (or chrome) "dress-up" bolts all over the car in critical applications.