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Removing Air Pump

Jeb

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2005
Messages
456
Location
Covington, Louisiana
Corvette
1987 Convertable
I'm thinking about removing the air pump on my stock L98. Has anyone here done it and will you please let me know how difficult it is to do?
 
It's not too difficult to do; simply a matter of removing the components and blocking the tubes going into the exhaust manifolds. There are eliminator kits available to bolt in place of the pump so you can still use the original serpentine belt.

Of course, if you have to go thru emissions inspections, the chances are you will fail the sniffer test and if there is a visual inspection, you will fail that.
 
I don't have to worry about a sniffer.

Is there an easy way to block off those little pipes to the exhaust manifolds? I mean, does someone make some plugs that can be used or should I think about getting them cut off and welded shut?
 
I am pretty sure they make the caps that will plug them. Dont quote me on that. I am thinking about leaving that junk off my car when the motor is done.
 
When I installed my TPIS headers I removed all that stuff. About 20 lbs of junk. My headers were ordered without the A.I.R. tubing so I didn't have to block that tube. I removed the tube where it goes into the intake, and used the "cover" (its a piece of billet aluminum that bolts over the hole.) The Air pump itself was removed and a bracket installed that has a pulley wheel so I can use the same belt. All the extra hoses and pipes were removed. The tube going back to the cat was pulled out also. One of the previous owners had modified the exhaust and had the tube brazed closed so it was disconnected already.


I guess you could have the inlets to the headers welded or brazed closed. The "cover" you could fabricate easily a piece of 1/4" flat alum. about 1 1/2" x 3/4" with two holes for the hold downs.

:w
 
I suspect I'll have my handy-dandy mechanic TIG the holes in the manifold closed and then do the tube which goes to the CAT also.

Right now, the pump isn't working anyway so it's either fix it or remove it. I believe I shall remove it. :)
 
The fittings on the exhaust manifold are pipe thread. You can go to a hardware store and buy a nice brass hex cap that will fit. Not sure of the size.

I took the a.i.r. pump apart and gutted it. Basically, it is now just a pulley. If you need to look stock, that would be a good trick. I bought the eliminator kit and plan to install it in the near future.

If anyone is interested, I will sell the gutted pump for $25 plus shipping.

Mike
 
yeah it would be nice to remove all that junk under the hood for that and the parts going to the exhaust manifolds too! but i have emissions to deal with?? and i am not sure if that would get me in trouble removeing the stock emission parts?
 
tigmaned said:
yeah it would be nice to remove all that junk under the hood for that and the parts going to the exhaust manifolds too! but i have emissions to deal with?? and i am not sure if that would get me in trouble removeing the stock emission parts?

It should only hurt you emissions wise if they require a visual inspection. If they do not require the visual it will not hurt your emissions as long as the vehicle is thoroughly warmed up before the test. The AIR pump adds oxygen to the exhaust to kick-start the cats until they reach operating temperature.
 
I am not a pro at this but I do know that Mad-Mic passed emissions with no cats. It just goes to show you how well a tuned and strong motor runs. I think the air pump helps throughout operation. I could be wrong though.
 
ZumZum said:
The AIR pump adds oxygen to the exhaust to kick-start the cats until they reach operating temperature.
I think this is into the exhaust manifolds until the cat is up to temperature. Then, the ECM directs the air to be routed to the cat to help it complete the combustion.
I don't recall the conditions, but air can also be dumped overboard, perhaps during deceleration, going to neither part of the exhaust.
:w
 
Why not just pipe it to your intake, kind of like a turbo charger;LOL
 
I was thinking of removing the manifolds (those 3/4" pipes which run longitudinally) and sealing the exhaust manifolds but upon further review, I think I'll just plug them so I can re-install the system if needed. Getting rid of all those hoses and pipes will clean up the engine bay very nicely plus I'll have a better look at the timing mark.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
if your going to remove it all, why not go with some nice headers and get some horses out of the deal to boot!!
 
did you get rid of all the other stuff that go with it?? if so got any pictures with the stuff gone! cleaner under the hood i bet.
 

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