Removing interior panel - advice needed

[beezvette]

Hi: I'm going to "soundprooof" the back of my C5 using Damplifier. It is supposed to work well. I've read the postings of how to go about removing the carpet in the hatch, but...any advice? Any panels that have to pry off, like the panel on the back?

Thanks for the help.

 

[vette747]

Try the link below.

http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm

 

[DRTH VTR]

I did the Frost King method using the link on MikeMercury's site. It is not difficult. The hardest part was getting up the courage to gut my car! The panels in the back (over the speakers, etc) can be stubborn to get off. They just pop off. I broke one, but a replacement was less than $10.

The decrease in noise level was very noticeable.

 

[beezvette]

I did the Frost King method using the link on MikeMercury's site. It is not difficult. The hardest part was getting up the courage to gut my car! The panels in the back (over the speakers, etc) can be stubborn to get off. They just pop off. I broke one, but a replacement was less than $10.

The decrease in noise level was very noticeable.

Thanks. I did review Tim's page (Mike Mercury) and have also emailed him. He did the frost king work 3 years ago, and since then, soundproofing has come a long way. The frost king job gets positive reviews, so i'm hopeful that the next generation material will do even better. I love my B&B PRTs, but in the highway the drone gets annoying. The replacement was less than $10? You must mean for the snap connector on the back of the panel, certainly GM would not sell an entire panel for < $10???!!! also - did you do the drivers compartment, or just the hatch? Thank you for the advice.

 

[DRTH VTR]

Thanks. I did review Tim's page (Mike Mercury) and have also emailed him. He did the frost king work 3 years ago, and since then, soundproofing has come a long way. The frost king job gets positive reviews, so i'm hopeful that the next generation material will do even better. I love my B&B PRTs, but in the highway the drone gets annoying. The replacement was less than $10? You must mean for the snap connector on the back of the panel, certainly GM would not sell an entire panel for < $10???!!! also - did you do the drivers compartment, or just the hatch? Thank you for the advice.

The snap connector is part of the molded panel. It cannot be replaced by itself. The panel was cheap. I really do remember that it was under $10, but I am old and have CRS disease. I would suggest that you do the front and the back. I think it took me about 7-8 rolls(?) over a weekend. I bought some aluminum tape to put on the seams. I was not as careful and exact as is shown on that site. I believe that the the largest part of the benefit comes from the bulkhead behind the seats and the back part of the car.

Just for giggles, I put the driver's seat back in the gutted car and drove it. It was LOUD. You could hear every little piece of sand hit the underside of the car.

 

[beezvette]

Thank you very much for the info. I plan to use Damplifier PRO, which is similar to the stuff they use on roofs, except it is rubber-based, not tar based. Some of the cheaper products work well but smell when they get hot (which would be a serious problem on the Vette!). I am going to cover this with Overkill, which is a foam product (sold in sheets) that also absorbs sound. I'll try the back first - I think I can also get the area behind the seats without major surgery. Then go from there. CRS disease?

 

[DRTH VTR]

Thank you very much for the info. I plan to use Damplifier PRO, which is similar to the stuff they use on roofs, except it is rubber-based, not tar based. Some of the cheaper products work well but smell when they get hot (which would be a serious problem on the Vette!). I am going to cover this with Overkill, which is a foam product (sold in sheets) that also absorbs sound. I'll try the back first - I think I can also get the area behind the seats without major surgery. Then go from there. CRS disease?

One comment- Anything that you put on the floor under the seat will either need some holes around where the seats are bolted to the floor, or it will have to be compressed by the seat installation. It limits the thickness of the product. Also, if the material is too thick, the carpeting in the storage bins will not fit correctly.

CRS = can't remember s***
I also have OFD. Old Fool Disease or Old ****** Disease

 

[beezvette]

Thanks again for the advice. It will be a winter project. The Damplifier is pretty thin, and the foam ("Overkill") is also thin. If needed, I'll modify the carpet in the bins to fit.