I replaced Mine recently
You do have to remove the licence plate and reach in to get to the inner light, but the outer one you need to reach up from underneath, grab the end of the unit firmly, give it a little turn and it should pull out easily.
They only drop a few inches in there, and you may have a little challenge to push the individual bulb in and twist to get it out. Putting it in can be a real bear, because you have to make certain that the bulb base is aligned because they are polarized, then you push the mounting bracket back into the bulb casing and give it a little turn to reseat it.
Having skinny arms with strong hands would be an asset. If you have a 12 year old, or an underfed feminine companion, they may beable to reach them easier.
Also make certain the exhaust system has cooled, or you'll end up with reminders to do so the next time.