Replacing Transmission Yoke/Bushing/Seal

[agildawg]

I've got some leakage and play where the transmission yoke comes out of the housing and connects to the driveshaft. In looking at previous posts, it appears that the driveshaft can be dropped by removing the straps from the yoke, pushing the yoke forward, and the driveshaft backward, and then pulling the driveshaft down and forward to get it out. Once out, I assume I can simply pull the yoke to see if it is grooved or damaged. While I've got it out, I plan to replace the bushing/seal and if required, the yoke itself. Looks to me like this is a relatively straight-forward task that could be done without removing the transmission, but my mechanic seems to think the transmission may have to come out to do it. For those that have done this before, how big of a pain is it, and did the transmission have to come out?

Thanks,
Dawg

 

[agildawg]

Oops....just realized when looking at my notes that mechanic may have been referring to replacing the shift-shaft seals when talking about R&R of transmission.

 

[JohnZ]

Snap-On makes a special tool for removing and replacing the rear bushing (with the output shaft in place) without disassembling the transmission, but it isn't cheap. Without the tool, the trans has to come out and the tailhousing has to come off.

 

[Phill]

Just did the shift cable seal and the rear seal on my th350 and even though the tranny was out at the time you should be able to replace both without removing it.

 

[TimAT]

Once you have the driveshaft out, the tail housing is held on by (4) 3/8 bolts. They sometimes get a little corroded and don't want to come out, but they will. Pull the speedo gear out so you don't kill it. It's held in with a 1/4 bolt and has an o-ring and then there is a small lip seal in there too. May as well replace those while you're there. Then you can replace the bushing in the tail housing and seal on the bench. Don't forget to check the yoke for wear too. There's a square cut seal between the trans case and the housing. Before you drive the new seal in, pack the cavity in the back of the seal with grease- that keeps the garter spring from popping out when you smack it wth a hammer. A litle bit of anti-seize on the bolts is a good idea too. Unless you've got a 200-4R, the housing is removable.. without pulling the tranny.

K-D makes a cool little tool for the shifter shaft too. about $15.