Rotor Rivets

[Vinn]

Hi all,

I purchased new front rotors for my '70. I removed the old rotor and rivets from the hub assembly, and wanted to replace the rivets after installing the new rotors. It seems not many people do this, but I have the rivets, I just am not sure on the proper technique to install them.

Thanks!

Vince

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

I don't understand why you'd want to re-rivet the new rotors on as this served no purpose beyond manufacturing but, it's your car.

Make sure you measure the new rotor on the hub for runout before you install it. It needs to be machined as an assembly if any is found. Use .003" as an upper limit.

 

[Vinn]

Thanks for the advice. I'll be sure to check for runout.

I'm still not sure, however, how to install these rivets. Is there a special tool, or do they need heated? I know they aren't really necessary, but I'd like to put them on anyway.

 

[JohnZ]

You need a 15-20-ton press with rivet tooling; hardly worth the effort, and not necessary for function; they were only riveted for manufacturing convenience so the rotor could be finish-machined as a unit with the hub to minimize runout. Just make sure once you find a rotor-to-hub stud index position (hold the rotor on the hub with inverted lug nuts) that gives .003" or less total indicated lateral runout that you mark a mating hub stud and rotor hole so you don't lose that indexing in the future.

 

[GTR1999]

If you want to hold them together but don't care about NCRS stuff then you can bolt them. I use a 3/8-24 tap and the rivet hole is just over the tap size drill. There is enough to get a decent thread though and it will hold them together. Use 3/8-24x5/8" socket flat heads and counter sink the rivet holes in the rotor so they're flush after you tigthen them.

 

[JohnZ]

Rivets aren't checked in NCRS judging - the wheels would have to come off.

 

[GTR1999]

Thanks John, as you can tell, I don't pay too much attention to number matching issues. The bolts will work though.

 

[NHvette]

Thanks John, as you can tell, I don't pay too much attention to number matching issues. The bolts will work though.

I was surprised to find this on my 75 front rotors. A previous owner had replaced the rotor and used 5/16" hex head bolts ... with the heads ground down thin.
It sounds like a good idea - to have them turned as an assembly, but I might just dispose of that. I have the dial indicator/mag base to find the best index.
That may just be good enough.