Question: Running FAT

[Marv02]

The other day going home one of my Co-works was behind me and he told me when I got on gas he said there was Black smoke as I pulled away from him.

I have a 383 with LT4 hotcam PCMforless tune.

The car is tuned for my set up but is this normal I was concern I could been running to lean at first due to the 24# injectors but now It seems it run Fat when you put your foot in to it.

 

[boomdriver]

Pull a couple plugs and take a look. Anywhere between bone-white and tan are acceptable as long as its not crusty with flakes on the insulator. Flakes or crud means it WAS running rich but has burned cleaner the last few miles before checking.

Having a 'built' engine can mean running rich, but I agree that it should'nt be spittin out chicken legs when you stomp it.....

If you have the adjustable fuel reg dialed up....try backing it out and dropping the pressure 5-10 lbs. I doubt that its a matter of the inj being too big with that block and those goodies...mine is similar except mines not stroked, and I run clean except for a small puff right as I punch it...but mines more valve seals letting some oil pass when I suddenly open the throttle...

A bump in performance often comes from a slightly rich mix....thats why so many guys are willing to trade away longevity and clean burning motors to get a couple more HP from a carb set up...they run richer across the board and make a bit more power cause of that. They also wear out alot faster because they are running rich......

You might want to get behind it yourself to see so YOU know....Thats what I'd do so I could see exactly what someone means by a "puff" or a "little bit"..may be nothin at all.

 

[Marv02]

I not going to let my wife drive the Vett she wrecked every car we owned sad but true she not driving my Vett so I can follow it to see if puffs black smoke.

Pull a couple plugs and take a look. Anywhere between bone-white and tan are acceptable as long as its not crusty with flakes on the insulator. Flakes or crud means it WAS running rich but has burned cleaner the last few miles before checking.

Having a 'built' engine can mean running rich, but I agree that it should'nt be spittin out chicken legs when you stomp it.....

If you have the adjustable fuel reg dialed up....try backing it out and dropping the pressure 5-10 lbs. I doubt that its a matter of the inj being too big with that block and those goodies...mine is similar except mines not stroked, and I run clean except for a small puff right as I punch it...but mines more valve seals letting some oil pass when I suddenly open the throttle...

A bump in performance often comes from a slightly rich mix....thats why so many guys are willing to trade away longevity and clean burning motors to get a couple more HP from a carb set up...they run richer across the board and make a bit more power cause of that. They also wear out alot faster because they are running rich......

You might want to get behind it yourself to see so YOU know....Thats what I'd do so I could see exactly what someone means by a "puff" or a "little bit"..may be nothin at all.

 

[Marv02]

On anouther forum someone had a good point I dont know what temp the motor was at it could not been up to temp yet that could of let the motor run fat when I got on it.

 

[boomdriver]

I not going to let my wife drive the Vett she wrecked every car we owned sad but true she not driving my Vett so I can follow it to see if puffs black smoke.

Seriously?

Believe me, I understand.

My dumb a$$ed ex pulls in the driveway one afternoon. I was outside and I hear the car coming....she proceeds to tell me about this awful noise coming from the car...she says "its broken" & I don;t trust it" etc.... (gave the simple broom ridin ho a Corvette to drive to work and shes bitchin)

I go look to see the goofy 8itch was dragging the air-dam under the car...that one was fiber-glass too.........

 

[Marv02]

I have a feeling it's the mapping off in the tune.

I was thinking about it if I stomp on the gas doing 25 to 30 MPH that in turns opens the TB butterflys to full open, The computer is Now going to tell the Injectors it time to rock and roll so start dumping fuel to macth the airflow.

The motor is not turning enough RPM's yet to burn that much fuel at a time so if was turn high RPM's it could and would be able to burn that much fuel at a time.

I rather run rich than lean but I have to put my car though CA smopg test this comming month then again they dont stomp on the gas when they do the test I think it at idel then at 2000 rpm's then back to ideal again.

If you dont floor it it dont puff black smoke.

 

[Marv02]

Looking for a Dyno in LA or Kern County Ca area

Well beening in Ca it time to get the car smoged I woundering will pass knowing it blows rich at WOT.

At normal cruise It seems to run clean.

So I started to look around for someone that can put the car on a rolling Dyno Tune the car around La or Kern County area that wont rip me off and charge me $700.00+ doing so if you know what I mean.

Plus I realy like to know on a real Dyno not on my computer program what H/P & TQ I realy pushing not just on a computer program.

So if anyone out there Knows some where that tunes and has a Dyno please let me know who to get a hold of.

 

[Hib Halverson]

Westech Performance Group in Mira Loma can do a calibration for your car and has a chassis dyno.

I do all my dyno work there.

www.[B]westechperformance[/B].com/

 

[Marv02]

Thanks I look them Up.

Westech Performance Group in Mira Loma can do a calibration for your car and has a chassis dyno.

I do all my dyno work there.

www.westechperformance.com/

 

[Marv02]

I will order the laptop path cord I try that first.
Talking about Cheep anyone out there knows where to get a cable I found one for $50.00 I think thats kinda pricey for a path cord.
I shoot PCMforless a E-Mail already about whats gong on and see what they say about how to fix it.
Next Question I asked for a 700 RPM idle but the Chip they sent me is set at 800+ so I hope I can get this fixed at the same time.
I have try ed to reset base time just cant get below 800+ after the computer relearns it self go's back to the 800+ idle.
I just notice on U tube someone else had there set up at 700 RPM's there Idle what the idle sound I like.