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Rusty bolt clean up??

Vref

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
115
Location
Conroe, TX
Corvette
65 Roadster

All over the front suspension 65 327.
Is there a good way to tumble in a machine or a good way to clean up rusty bolts? They all have the correct heads on them and I am trying to keep it original. Or is it better to just replace the bolts?
 
The old fashion way works for me, bench grinder with a wire or buffing wheel. I know you stated the bolt heads are ok, but what about thread stretch over the years..? Just something to consider on a 40 year old bolt.
 
I've got the same problem with mine (having pulled all of the chrome) but I just ordered new bolts - for now. I lost two anyway, one to the cutter and one to the streets.

I'm thinking that a good media tumble, similar to firearm brass, would work well.

They'd then have to be treated to prevent future rusting.
 
I think getting OEM replacement bolts won't keep the car from being considered original. As soon as the oil was changed it was different than delivered. Have you ever changed the plugs, shocks, muffler or tires? Of course these items are expected to be replaced but so are the fasterners on the vehicle when maintenance is done.

JMO
 
elints said:
I think getting OEM replacement bolts won't keep the car from being considered original. As soon as the oil was changed it was different than delivered. Have you ever changed the plugs, shocks, muffler or tires? Of course these items are expected to be replaced but so are the fasterners on the vehicle when maintenance is done.

That depends on who you talk to and what type of replacement you use. For NCRS purposes the head size and markings must match what the factory used as must the finish of the bolt. If they can figure it out, the length should match as well.

NCRS will also dock points for plugs, wires, mufflers, tires, batteries and other consumables that aren't "as delivered."
 
Vref, you can always try the old fashion way before chemical industries got on board. ... a "carbonated beverage". Just throw your bolts in a can, dump in a bottle/can. Or how about a bottle of CLR you buy almost anywhere. We'll get then bolts clean yet for you. (noticed I didn't include nuts):D
 
I tried the Coka Cola trick before and was not very happy with the results. They came out blotchy at best and it takes several days. Also it keeps on eating the good metal if you forget about it. Remember in grade school science class when you would put a nail in a bottle of Coke and by the end of the semester it was all but gone?

I cleaned some small parts with that Oxysolve that Easteood sells. It's a great rust eater but keep an eye on it. I forgot a trans cooler line bracket and 4 days later it was more than 50% eaten away. Even then I had to take the cleaned parts to the wire brush wheel on the grinder to clean off the residue. I suggest starting there in the first place. If the bolt is in a critical location go to Paragon and see if they have proper marking replacements. If not critical and it cleans up ok it's ok to use.

Also don't wear gloves of any kind while working around a wire wheel. You'd be suprised how quickly a spinning wire wheel can grab a piece pf cloth. Last summer I was watching an American Hotrod rerun when one of the guys was working on the drill press wearing mechanics gloves. I said to my wife that the guy was an idiot. That you never work around a spinning arbor with gloves on. I hadn't any more than got the words out when the other stupid thing he was doing bit him in the :booty. He was holding the part he was drilling in his hands instead of clamping to the table or in a drill press vice. The bit caught the piece when it was breaking through the back side and spun the piece making a rather nasty weapon out of it. Since he had gloves on the piece grabbed the gloves and wrapped his arm clear around the back of the arbor before it stalled and couldn't turn any more. Someone shut off the drill press and he ended up with some nasty damage to a couple of fingers. It could have been a lot worse if the piece would have torn loose from the gloves and spun like a garbage disposal while his arm was in there.

Sorry for the rant but you can't always tell from a post how experienced someone is and I'd rather rant that read later where someone got hurt. Wire wheels can be especially nasty. If you can hold the bolt with locking pliers or something to keep your fingers back please do so. The advertising I hear all the time about these mechanics gloves would lead a novice into thinking that he should wear them all the time in the garage. I think they are probably ok for hand tool work and might prevent a lot of small cuts and skinned knuckles but never wear gloves around spinning tools.

Tom
 
Try doing a google search for "electrolytic rust removal". I used this method several years ago for cleaning brackets, nuts and bolts and it worked great. The process is basically using low voltage, an electrode and an electrolyte solution. Everything you need is readily available. Works fast. Only precaution: Do it outside as it does produce off-gases!
 
If you want to spend the money Eastwood has a good media tumbler that workes well just for that purpose. Works on bolts and small parts, I have had one a little over a year and use it on a regular basis.
 
Whatever medium you use to clean bolts/nuts, the problem afterwards is that you remove the plating/coating.

Many/most of these fasteners were zinc/cad, black phosphate/black oxide plated. With the plating gone, they rust in an instant.

If you want to re-use fasteners, you've got to clear coat them, or have them replated, IF you don't want them to rust within 1-2 days. :) Chuck
 
What are the ways to zinc/cad, black phosphate/black oxide plate bolts?

I have seen the eastwood kit, and I suppose you can take them somewhere? Any other ideas?
 
You can probably find a bulk plater to to zinc in your area. They usually charge "by the pound" for what they call "bucket plating". They throw the bolts, washers, nuts, etc. into a gizmo that looks like a butter churn.

Immerse it in the solution, the churn turns, exposing all the surfaces. Voila!! Zinc plating.

Used to be about $35.00 up here to have a PILE of stuff done.

The black coatings? I've never fooled with the Caswell or Eastwood kits. Chuck
 
One way to Simulate Black Phosphate is to heat the hardware wth a torch then dip it in used motor oil.

Tom M
 
Vref said:
All over the front suspension 65 327.
Is there a good way to tumble in a machine or a good way to clean up rusty bolts? They all have the correct heads on them and I am trying to keep it original. Or is it better to just replace the bolts?

Understand the desire to have the right bolts but the first question I think you need to ask is are you going to drive this much? If you are, I would invest in new bolts and if the heads mean that much to you, get the right ones. But new grade 8 where you can. Those old bolts have stretched a bit and aren't what they used to be performance-wise.
 
try electrolysis

Vref said:

All over the front suspension 65 327.
Is there a good way to tumble in a machine or a good way to clean up rusty bolts? They all have the correct heads on them and I am trying to keep it original. Or is it better to just replace the bolts?



For small parts and even bigger pieces, I often use electrolysis. It takes off all the rust, inside and out, on steel/iron pieces, and does no harm to the metal. From A-arms to bolts, it works really well, is dirt cheap and environmentally sound. Here's a web site that explains it all. I forgot if they advise using washing soda for the solution, but it works, and well. Take a look at http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
I have a plastic tub setup but you could make it as big as you like, and attach the pieces as described to a battery charger.
Hope this helps.
Reed Flickinger
 
Thanks Reed,

That's very interesting. I may just have to try that meathod on some of my junk.

Welcome to the CAC

Tom
 

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