I think you need to read this
and read all the links and sub links, it will save you thousands of hours of wasted time and thousands of dollars in wasted money spent on the wrong parts
http://www.73-87.com/chp/chp.htm
then take your time and look over these
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
THEN
I KNOW your not going to want to hear this at this time, but it will save you thousands of dollars and lots of wasted effort in the long run,you need to understand the basics BEFORE you START SPENDING MONEY,TAKE THE TIME TO BUY A FEW BOOKS AND READ A FEW TECH ARTICLES, TO GET THE BASICS
read this , by the time you understand all the links youll have the basics
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm
http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech.htm
http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html
http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=397334&Forum=UBB64&Words=LSA&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=3&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=397176&Search=true#Post397334
if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start
http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm
(read LESSONs 1-8)
http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html
http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm
http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm
http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/index.html
http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm
http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm
http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm
http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html
http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm
http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/vtg.html
http://www.n2performance.com/lecture1.shtml
http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html
http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html
http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html
http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=200511&Forum=UBB64&Words=your%20kidding&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=200510&Search=true#Post200511
http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html
http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page05.htm
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/
http://www.aera.org/Members/EngineTech/engine.htm
http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html
if you do nothing else buy and read these books BEFORE starting the engine build
I will save you THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS WASTED and YEARS OF LEARN TIME
http://www.73-87.com/chp/chp.htm
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/71298/index.html
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR
buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do!
HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB
.
HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD
.
JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines
how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD
SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS
SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE BUILDUPS
check list
if theres any one tool you need its a good engine stand
stand info
you don,t need anywhere near a full selection of tools but be very carefull checking clearances and I highly advise buying a damper installation tool
look at the picture carefully
the small 7/16 thread ,on the tool threads into the crank, the damper slips over the tool, the large washer style bearing slips over the tool followed by the solid washer followed by the large nut that threads on the tool, the back of the tool is normally a 9/16 or 5/8 hex this is held with a box end wrench to keep the engine from turning, the large nut is usually a 1 1/8" nut and it is tightened with an open end 1 1/8" wrench or a adjustable wrench against the two washers drawing the damper onto the crank snout! lube the threads on the tool, the inside of the damper and crank snout with oil before starting. the damper will normally slide on about 1/4 of the way bye hand then the tool is needed to draw the damper on the last 3/4 of the distance,
don,t over tighten the tool the 7/16" thread will snap off in the crank after the damper bottoms out on the lower timing gear if you do!,
NEVER USE A HAMMER AND BLOCK OF WOOD TO DRIVE THE DAMPER ON, YES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THINK THEY DID IT WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS BUT...
IT WILL DAMAGE THE THRUST BEARING CLEARANCES,
IT CAN BREAK THE ELASTOMER TORSION RING ON STOCK DAMPERS
IT CAN CAUSE THE INERTIAL RING ON FLUIDAMPER TO BECOME JAMMED INTERNALLY
IT CAN CAUSE THE DAMPER TO FAIL.
IF THE DAMPER FAILS THE CRANK WILL EVENTUALLY BE DAMMAGED
IT GREATLY STRESSES THE CRANK SHAFT
IT CAN DAMAGE THE CRANKS TRANSMISSION PILOT BEARING
IT CAN DAMAGE THE TRANSNSMISSION
ALMOST EVERY TYPE OF DAMAGE IS NOT SOMETHING THAT SHOWS UP RIGHT AWAY, BUT IT WILL DANMAGE THE PARTS LISTED AND THERES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THAT ARE WONDERING WHY THOSE PARTS FAILED 6-24 MONTHs LATER WITH NO CLUE AS TO THE CAUSE!
[color:"red"]ASK YOURSELF THIS QUESTION, IF CRANKSHAFTS THAT ARE A FEW THOUSANDS OUT OF LINE I.E. NOT PERFECTLY STRAIT ARE BENT/STRAITEND WITH A LEAD HAMMER BY CRANK MANUFACTURES (and yes thats how its done) AND CRANKS THAT ARE DROPPED ON A CONCRETE FLoOR SOMETIMES BEND SLIGHTLY ,(happends all the time) WHAT MAKES YOU THINK THAT BEATING ON THEM WITH A HAMMER AND A BLOCK OF WOOD WONT DAMMAGE THEM?[/color] AND WHILE WERE AT IT WHAT WOULD YOU DO TO SOME GUY YOU CAUGHT BEATING ON YOUR ENGINE BLOCK WITH A HAMMER? WELL WHAT DO YOU THINK THE CRANKS DOING TO YOUR MAIN CAPS WHEN YOU BEAT ON THE CRANK? PROPERLY USED THAT INSTALLATION TOOL CAN EXCERT OVER 15 TONS OF PRESSURE TO SLIDE THE DAMPER ON, IF IT WONT SLIDE ON, THERES A PROBLEM! FIND IT AND FIX IT .....DON,T BEAT ON THE DAMPER/CRANK