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Steering Control box

76okievette

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2004
Messages
697
Location
oklahoma
Corvette
Early 1976 L-48, 2008 Victory Red
I am going to replace my steering box, and wanted some input on if I should go with new or rebuilt? It does not appear to be a item I would want to rebuild myself.
Also any special things I should know about the removal and installation?
 
Got the AIM (assembly instruction manual)? AIM helps since it shows you the installation. You will need a pitman arm puller.

:)
 
Thanks Mike I have the AIM but I may put off the swap for a while they cost more than my budget for right now. Thanks
 
Who sells new steering gears for C3s.

My guess is rebuilding it or buying a rebuilt is the best way to go.
 
The best way to go is to properly rebuild yours. PM me and I'll link you to my thread on doing this job. Be very careful with exchange units or common rebuilds, I've fixed many of those before.
 
I have some play in the steering, and the adjustment screw is down to just about two threads showing, all the ball joints seem of and the rag joint is ok, but going to replace it at the same time. So I just assumed that it was the steering box.
 
Play in the steering is normal for these cars- it's not like modern rack and pinion. Many people become alarmed on power steering cars when they see a huge amount of play when the engine is shut off and the wheel is not dead straight ahead.

I'd look for more definite signs of wear in the box before tearing into it.

Is there any side to side play in the input shaft?
Is there any linear play in the input shaft?
How much play is there when rotating the input shaft before the output shaft moves?

These should be measured with the rag joint disconnected.
 
2-3 threads showing may not be too bad. True it is a quick check when looking at a box but it should be checked.

These boxes in stock form are sloppy in the lash, sideplay, and pitman shaft endplay. When properly blueprinted they are 100% better.

Play associated with steering can be found in the box, rag joint, suspension parts, bearings and alignment. Be sure the rest of the parts are good. See if there is lost motion in the box, with the front end off the ground have someone turn the steering wheel while you look at the rag and output. When on center there should be no lost motion in the box. Off center there is and should be, but on center should move the same at the input/output. If not then you have a box issue.

Check my post here, it will help you.

Good luck, if it's the box it can be corrected.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76773
 
2-3 threads showing may not be too bad. True it is a quick check when looking at a box but it should be checked.

These boxes in stock form are sloppy in the lash, sideplay, and pitman shaft endplay. When properly blueprinted they are 100% better.

Play associated with steering can be found in the box, rag joint, suspension parts, bearings and alignment. Be sure the rest of the parts are good. See if there is lost motion in the box, with the front end off the ground have someone turn the steering wheel while you look at the rag and output. When on center there should be no lost motion in the box. Off center there is and should be, but on center should move the same at the input/output. If not then you have a box issue.

Check my post here, it will help you.

Good luck, if it's the box it can be corrected
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76773
I'm dealing with this same issue I looked at mine ,wheels on the ground and engine running and I did see some off center non movement. I'm gonna jack it up tomorrow and look again. Should your engine be running when doing this? 76 did you make a move on yours yet?
 
No have the engine off. You want to be safe first and there's no need to have it running to check the box. Most stock boxes a sloppy compared to a blueprinted job. Every original vette box I opened up and most of the so-called rebuild ones have slop in the lash screw gap, as much as 010". Bushings can be snug at 005 or way over 010" The biggest killer is the lash setting, if the gears were over adjusted you may not be able to get a good settting and could require replacement.
You may also be getting play in the rag joint, control valve stud, manual link ball stud, idler arm, tie rod ends, or bearings.
If you check the box in the air it will show the play in the box.
 
Okay don't laugh at me for asking. What are the signs of a worn-out Rag Joint?
 
do you know what the rag joint is and where it is located? It is above the steering box, it is a fiberish material between the the metal pieces, it gets old and starts to make the steering looser. It can be replaced, but it takes a little work to do so, since you have to take the steering shaft loose or the steering box loose to get enough room to take it apart. If the rag is wearing out, have some one sit in behind the steering wheel while you stand above it and watch as they turn the wheel back and forth to see what is worn out.
 
I know where the coupler joint is. My main concern was how to test it for wear. Thanks for the advice.
 
The joint should be flat and have no play in it. If it's a rubber replacement,torn,dried out or has plat in it replace it with new GM rag only. DO NOT use a rebuild kit on this part. The GM rags will have fine wire mesh in them, if you run your finger along the edge you'll feel it.
 
Sorry its been so long since I got back to this post, Great info here and Thanks to everyone for all the good information. :thumb
I have not done anything to my 76 yet, after checking some of the things mentioned in this post its does not seem to be all that bad. Nothing has what I preceive as excessive play, the rag joint looks good so am just driving it and having fun.
Also I purchased a new 08 a few months ago so the 76 does not get driven as much, I think it's getting mad at me :rotfl
 

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