Stock Distributor, Pertronix Modified

[fine69]

I received a rebuilt 1969 tach drive distributor as Father's Day gift. I want to use it, but it has been modified with a Pertronix unit (Igniter LS).

What a great gift, however I do not know how to hooked it up... there are 2 wires (red and black). Does the red simply hook up to the (+) side of the coil, and the black to the (-)?

Obviously I have not yet installed it... and I am not quite sure if I want to... I would really rather use the regular points type system.

Does anyone know if converting the distributor back to a regular type is very difficult?

Thank you.

 

[BarryK]

shouldn't be difficult at all. Just remove the pertronix unit out of the distributor, install a new set of points, installing the distributor, set your dwell and timing and you should be all set.

Swapping the Pertronix for points shouldn't take more than 10 minutes or so I'd guess although I've never done it but those kits are designed to be pretty easy to install so the swap back to points should be the same ease.

 

[JohnZ]

I received a rebuilt 1969 tach drive distributor as Father's Day gift. I want to use it, but it has been modified with a Pertronix unit (Igniter LS).

What a great gift, however I do not know how to hooked it up... there are 2 wires (red and black). Does the red simply hook up to the (+) side of the coil, and the black to the (-)?

The black wire goes to the (-) coil terminal, and the red wire needs to connect to an ignition-switched full 12-volt source (NOT to the coil + terminal, which is fed by a resistance wire at about 7-8 volts).

Converting back to points is easy - just remove the Pertronix module and wiring and replace with normal points and condenser; you'll also need the black wire and grommet that connect the points to the coil (-) terminal through the base of the distributor (it's Delco D1205, NAPA/Echlin LW72, Niehoff DR-124, Borg-Warner DL-24, or Standard DDL-36).

 

[lone73]

I would leave the pertronix in there. Some have complained that they fail but I have been thru that with the stock GM unit and had the same problems. Figured it out by trial and error. Its just a cooling issue. If you remove the weather strip at the back side of the hood it will most likely be fine. Worked for me. Actually I just cut a 16 inch section out of the center and fixed my prob.

The way I figured it out was I switched it to fuel injection and had to use a small diameter F-body distributor, I bought an Accel "Billetech" aluminum unit. I didn't have the weatherstrip in place at the time. bought the car w/out it. I installed it a year after the F/I swap and about a month later my module died. Went through several more b4 I fianally decided I'd try removing that section of the weather strip. Once I did that I have never burned up another ignition module.

An alternate method would be to remotely locate the module in a cooler spot and run wires back to necessary terminals. I think the C4's are set up like this. You can also affix a heat sink from an electronics supply store to the underside of the distributor base plate right under the module. I did this as well on mine.

I haven't had to set points in ages. I think its a good mod, Like it alot.

good luck with it.
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[fine69]

The black wire goes to the (-) coil terminal, and the red wire needs to connect to an ignition-switched full 12-volt source (NOT to the coil + terminal, which is fed by a resistance wire at about 7-8 volts).

Converting back to points is easy - just remove the Pertronix module and wiring and replace with normal points and condenser; you'll also need the black wire and grommet that connect the points to the coil (-) terminal through the base of the distributor (it's Delco D1205, NAPA/Echlin LW72, Niehoff DR-124, Borg-Warner DL-24, or Standard DDL-36).

Thanks John... I'm going to order the parts you suggested.

BTW, I'm running at about 14-16" Hg vacuum @ approx 950 rpms (8* BDTC @ 750 rpms w/advance hose disconnected and plugged).... there is fluctuation in rpms and vacuum.

What vacuum advance can would you recommend?

 

[fine69]

shouldn't be difficult at all. Just remove the pertronix unit out of the distributor, install a new set of points, installing the distributor, set your dwell and timing and you should be all set.

Swapping the Pertronix for points shouldn't take more than 10 minutes or so I'd guess although I've never done it but those kits are designed to be pretty easy to install so the swap back to points should be the same ease.

Thanks Barry, I'll give it a try. We're heading out to CT for vacation -- I plan to do this when we get back.

Ralph

 

[BarryK]

Thanks John... I'm going to order the parts you suggested.

BTW, I'm running at about 14-16" Hg vacuum @ approx 950 rpms (8* BDTC @ 750 rpms w/advance hose disconnected and plugged).... there is fluctuation in rpms and vacuum.

What vacuum advance can would you recommend?

Obviously I'm not John and if he replies back go by HIS recommendation, not mine but based on your vacuum level you are getting you might want to go with the Echlin VC1765 vacuum can. It starts at 5-7" of vacuum and pegs out at 11-13" of vacuum and you should have a can that pegs out at 2" below the vacuum that your motor is producing so this seems like a good match.
It will add 16º of advance at max.

If you say that you're getting fluctuations in your timing and vacuum readings that you probably have too much endplay in your distributor and you probably need to shim it up to correct tolerances. It would be a good idea to do that before installing the new points and condensor. If you don't than you will find that your dwell on the points will fluctuate and if dwell fluctuates than so will your timing.

BTW, when you put in the new parts and rehook everything up again, make sure your vacuum can is running off a full manifold vacuum source, not a ported vacuum source.

 

[JohnZ]

Yup - the VC-1765 will be stamped "B20" on the mounting bracket; be sure to check that, as they can be mis-boxed.

 

[RodsnRides]

The black wire goes to the (-) coil terminal, and the red wire needs to connect to an ignition-switched full 12-volt source (NOT to the coil + terminal, which is fed by a resistance wire at about 7-8 volts).

John Z or anyone -
Can you advise the best location for an ignition switched 12v source? Should I come off the fuse box with an insulated lead through the firewall, or use the "S" lead on the starter?

Thanks in advance,

Rick
:gap

 

[drspencer]

BTW, when you put in the new parts and rehook everything up again, make sure your vacuum can is running off a full manifold vacuum source, not a ported vacuum source.

What is the benefit of this?
Thanks

 

[JohnZ]

What is the benefit of this?
Thanks

This explains it.

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/timing & vacuum advance/Timing101Article.pdf