This one is for Hib, others welcome to

[vetteboy86]

I have been running castrol synthetic in my vette for a couple years now. I thoughtt he protection I received from castrol GTX was very good. So I decided to change. So far so good, and I haven't had any real complaints.

Due to reading, and my brothers influence I have been thinking that the mobil 1 synthetic is better. Should I or can I switch to the mobil 1? I guess this is basically a question of brands, but from what I read the mobil 1 is far better. Now will I effect anything, if I switch?

Thanks to all

Craig

 

[Ken]

Run a search with his name included. He's opined his choice of motor oils and lubricants here quite a few times. Try "motor oil recommendations".

 

[vetteboy86]

ken, I kind of remember some of those threads. What do you think about me changing brands. I know some people will just buy what ever is on sale, but my car has had castrol for 5 or so years now. The mobile 1 probably is better, but I dont want to make matters worse by changing.

Craig

 

[c4c5specialist]

HI there,
You will not have any ill effects of changing oil brand or composition from conventional oil to synthetic.
Synthetic, no matter if it is Mobil or others, offer superior thermal oxidation resistance, better flowability when cold and superior fluid shearing capability. Combine this with better dilution resistance and outstanding lubrication yield a better engine oil.
One side note, on engines with oil leakage, there may be a slight increase in the leak, as synthetic is always thinner than the comparable conventional oil.
Allthebest, c4c5

 

[PLRX]

Last week the history channel revealed where the petroleum goes after is processed. It is turn into: Tar, Kerosene, Gasoline, Diesel and other. It goes to U.S. regions throughout pipes and from there, Chevron, Texaco, Amoco, 76, Exxon get their "gasoline". Advertisements tell us that the Tiger will give you more power, with Chevron will run cleaner and others will give you free cruise vacations. It was very clear that all gasoline come from the same source. The best part of the show was how the explained the octane 87-89 and 91 or 93 and it’s performance.

I think oils 10w30 etc etc are the same and synthetics are synthetics with their respective grades 5w50 etc.



I use Chevron because I have their credit card and I use Royal Purple in my Vette because the Spike channel put a Z28 on the dyno and it proved to increase it’s horses. Never had a problem with Mobil1 nor cheap fuels from Am/PM, Texaco or others. Once in a while I go to Pep Boys and buy a 104+…just because I can

Like Ken ussually says, buy the one that suits you and is worth YOUR money

Pedro

 

[motorman]

Last week the history channel revealed where the petroleum goes after is processed. It is turn into: Tar, Kerosene, Gasoline, Diesel and other. It goes to U.S. regions throughout pipes and from there, Chevron, Texaco, Amoco, 76, Exxon get their "gasoline". Advertisements tell us that the Tiger will give you more power, with Chevron will run cleaner and others will give you free cruise vacations. It was very clear that all gasoline come from the same source. The best part of the show was how the explained the octane 87-89 and 91 or 93 and it’s performance.

I think oils 10w30 etc etc are the same and synthetics are synthetics with their respective grades 5w50 etc.



I use Chevron because I have their credit card and I use Royal Purple in my Vette because the Spike channel put a Z28 on the dyno and it proved to increase it’s horses. Never had a problem with Mobil1 nor cheap fuels from Am/PM, Texaco or others. Once in a while I go to Pep Boys and buy a 104+…just because I can

Like Ken ussually says, buy the one that suits you and is worth YOUR money

Pedro

the gas may be the same when shipped BUT the additive package is added at the local distribtor to fit the areas needs.

 

[vetteboy86]

Hey there paul, I am glad to hear from you. Long time Thanks for setting me straight. Now I can start looking for the deals at the stores, this hopefully save me a few bucks.

Paul, will you be attending the cruise fest???? It is longer to drive but I certainly would go for some more tech seminars. I thought I heard something to that effect on the cruise fest thread. Always good to see you man.


Craig

 

[G Winter]

vetteboy86
Wallmart has the Mobil one for just under $20 for a 5 qt jug. Sam's has the 6 qt case for a similar price per qt. I pick up an AC filter at my local chevy dealer for $4.50 . $25 for a synthetic oil change that you dare run a few more miles on , isn't bad.

 

[vetteboy86]

That is actually very good pricing. About what is your oil pressure with the mobile 1 synthetic, cold and hot. Do you still get the large AC filters, or did your area switch over to the short ones?

Craig

 

[G Winter]

That is actually very good pricing. About what is your oil pressure with the mobile 1 synthetic, cold and hot. Do you still get the large AC filters, or did your area switch over to the short ones?

Craig

With the analog gauge it is hard to tell on my 90 but on other cars I have usually seen an increase in oil presure when engine is hot. I have run all my other cars about 7 to 8k on an oil change. I last bought an oil filter last fall so not sure what they did here. I measured and the longer oil filters for the pickups and light trucks will fit. There was a thread here discussing that awhile back in which the numbers of diff filters were mentioned . I have mentioned before I buy cars with 100 k on them and run them well past 200k.The Riv I have now has 212k on it, leaks a little at the top of the valve covers so have to add 1/2 qt at about 3500 miles. I have been running the synthetic for about 10 or 12 yrs now, never an engine failure.I do have a lead foot. One last thing, if you switch you may want to change it again at about 1500 to 2000 miles.. it cleans the engine .

 

[Mac]

Without intending to hijack the thread... maybe Paul (c4c5specialist) can answer whether this old shade-tree mechanic's trick really works...

If you've bought an older car and the oil looks pretty cruddy, pour a quart of automatic tranny fluid in a few days before you change the oil OR change the oil with some Kmart Blue-Light Special, a quart of ATF and a new filter, then run it for 1000 miles or so. Then upgrade to good quality oil & filter.

I've heard both of these recommendations in the past. Supposedly, this ATF is higher detergent and will clean up things, even helps unstick valve lifters, etc.

-Mac

 

[vetteboy86]

Mac, I heard that as well. Only the interval to run the tranny fluid with the oil was alot less, around the order of 300 miles. I guess the tranny fluid has detergents in it that really does clean the engine. I did here from a guy once that ever oil change after it is empty, he fills the system with kerosene, and runs the car for approx. 20 seconds. He said that works very good, dont think I would do it though.:ugh

Craig

 

[vader86]

I wouldnt run ATF in the engine, simply because its not motor oil and not intended for engine use. Its lubrication properties are different and Id be worried about any kind of chemical effects inside the motor. I have never heard any real reason regarding its burnt byproducts from combustion, or a great argument against it from anyone else. I do know that some of its detergent packages are very similar to what you'll find in synthetic oils.

My oil pressure did not change when I went to Mobil from GTX when I first got the car. Changing filters to K&N did up the pressure about 2psi though. I've got 63psi cold idle and mid-20s hot idle. Cruise pressure 55-60 usually.

 

[Vettefan87]

How hot is your oil temp when its in the 20's. That seems low to me. I recall my manual stating from 40-60 is ideal operating pressure. Mine cold idle is around 70ish, and hot idle around 48. Cruising pressure is around 60. This is also with regular 10w30 Castrol, non synthetic

I was advised from the guy that rebuilt my motor to NOT put anything in the motor but oil. Putting something in there that is going to clean it out, will break down lubrication of the bearings and all the other engine componets which is bad.

 

[Achilles]

Sorry to jump in here. But I was searching for a thread on low oil preasure and this thread was close to what I'm experiencing. I just change my oil in the 86 from mineral to a synthetic blend. Now I'm experiencing low oil preasure at normal operating temperature. My gauge was reading 17-20 psi at idle. This is scary! With the old oil (don't know what was in it. It came with the car when I bought it) cold psi was around 45-48, after full warm up around 33-38 psi. I was not expecting such a drastic drop in psi. I put in Castrol synthetic blend 10w-30. Should I switch to a thicker grade for the blended oil, or is there something else going on here?

 

[Vettefan87]

Wow, hopefully your sending unit is bad. If not I would say that is not good. When my oil pressure dropped to around 18, hot idle, I scored some main bearings. My hot oil pressure at idle now is around 45 or so with just conventional Castrol 10w30, under driving conditions it is 65+. You usually see a little higher oil pressure with switching to synthetic. I am not sure why it is different this time.

 

[Achilles]

Maybe I should drain the oil and replace with Motor Honey :confused .

The guy I bought it from said the engine had been rebuilt a few years back. I don't know. It runs very strong, so could be. I would hope the oil pump was replaced then. Isn't the sending unit right behind the distributor on top of the block?

 

[Hib Halverson]

I have been running castrol synthetic in my vette for a couple years now. I thoughtt he protection I received from castrol GTX was very good. So I decided to change. So far so good, and I haven't had any real complaints.

Due to reading, and my brothers influence I have been thinking that the mobil 1 synthetic is better. Should I or can I switch to the mobil 1? I guess this is basically a question of brands, but from what I read the mobil 1 is far better. Now will I effect anything, if I switch?

Thanks to all

Craig

First, let me ask a question. You say, initially, you're "running castrol synthetic" but later you say you thought the protection your received from "castrol GTX was very good." That implies that you're running Castrol GTX which is not a synthetic oil.

Are you using Castrol GTX or are you using one of Castrol USA's "synthetic" products, Castrol Syntec Blended or Castrol Syntec?

 

[vetteboy86]

No, Hib I was running castrol GTX and felt that protection was very good. That is the reason I decided to switch to castrol syntec. However according to my brother Mobil 1 is superior to any motor oil convential or synthetic. So this is why I wanted to know if I could switch brands of synthetic oils.

Sorry for the confusion

Craig

 

[Vettefan87]

I never said Mobil 1 was better then any other synthetic. Isn't Red Line better then Mobil 1?