Three questions ( Mystery 327 )

[vigman]

1) How do you get the oil bypass slug & spring out of a stripped block?

2) On the side of the oil filter casting there is a freeze plug looking thing ( where the oil temp sender would go) how does one remove it and what is the correct thread pitch & size for that hole?

3) Assuming the following ( 327/350-370hp)

Assuming that GM rated the 2 bolt small journal forged crank to handle that kinda output.

Is it safe to assume that I would not need to "beef it up" any more than it is.

AND

Would ARP studs be a better setup than going with the stock bolts from a clamping standpoint?

Mike

 

[69MyWay]

Mike,

Are you talking about the oil filter adapter that connects to the block up in the oil filter hole on the block and is held on by two bolts. The adapter has the bypass and spring kit built in? The adapter has the threaded tube that the filter screws on to coming out of the center. I can only compare a 350 for this application. If so, I would just use a hammer to rap on the socket (should be a 7/16" or 1/2" head bolt) while on the head of the oil filter bypass adapter bolts and slowly try to back them out. If the head of the bolt is stripped off clean (edges rounded off), then you may need to try an easy out. These bolts should not have more than about 15 foot lbs or less of torque on them to begin with.

If you strip/snap them off, hello Mr. easy out and possibly the heli coil kit. At least you can turn the block right side up and work from underneath to avoid getting any metal shavings in it (use gravity to your advantage).

Again, I don't know if the pipe threads on the plug above the oil filter would be the same as a 350. However, I believe that is a 7/16" hole. You can use it for an oil gauge, temp, or bypass for other oiling needs.

For street applications, the stock two bolt will provide all the strength you need.

I like ARP bolts, but again, for a solid street rebuild you may very well be able to get away with your original lower end bolts. You may want to add an extra pount or two of torque to make up for any stretch in the bolt from the many years of use and previous torqing.

 

[Ken]

...the heli coil kit.

Timeserts are better than heli-coils.

_ken

 

[vigman]

Oops wrong words

Stripped meaning torn apart, void of parts

It's my understanding that internal of the stripped ( read disassembled) block there is an internal slug in the block part of the oil bypass. how do you get it out ( was the question).

And the 2nd question is where the oil sender is there is a freeze plug lookin thing.. how do I get that out to tap the hole for the correct fitting.


Mike

 

[barrier5]

1.Never heard of any internal slugs just the relief spring and disc,we used to weld them closed so the oil always had to go through the filter. 2.The plug on the side of the block should be a standard pipe fitting and will most likly have a square hole that will fit a 1/4 or 3/8 ratchet extention. 3.Unless your going to run extremly high RPM and be dumping the clutch,the 2 bolt small journal crank will hold up fine.

 

[sscam69]

Hey Ken

For what they charge $50-60 I might as well buy a new manifold!

Helicoil would cost me $24.

On a budget, helicoil wins. I have never used them before but I think its good enough to get the job done.

sscam69