throw out bearing

[markiemyster]

I purchased a new Centerforce ll clutch package for my 65. The engine is not original. When I purchased the car last year it had a 350 engine with a scatter field bellhousing. I plan on keeping the same bell housing I just want to change the clutch over to the Centerforce because the old clutch that was in the car was very stiff.
The old clutch had a long throw out bearing. Probably 5/8" - 3/4" longer than the new one that came with the Centerforce package.
Someone told me that was because the scatter field bell housing is deeper and it had to compensate for the increase depth.
I'm just learning about cars in the last year since I got my vette. (I'm a late bloomer). ;stupid

Since then I've been told by someone else the new shorter one would work.
Does anyone have any experience along this line.
Should I use the old longer one that is still good or the new shorter one Centerforce sent in the kit.

Thanks, Mark:confused

 

[IH2LOSE]

I am not sure But if you shorten the thow out bearing your actually shortening your clutch throw meaning it cant disengage all the way.I hope one will chime in more familar with what your talking about,Now is the time to figure it out not once its all together

 

[Mac]

My gut feeling is to use the new throw-out bearing provided by Centerforce.
That being said, the non-stock bellhousing may have changed the position of the fork somewhat, making a longer throw-out bearing necessary.

I suggest you check the ID on the longer bearing and see if it is stock to your application. If it is nonstock, I would re-use the longer bearing- or rather, I would purchase a new longer bearing and use it. Bearings are wear parts and if you're replacing the clutch, it is prudent to replace all bearings at the same time, even if they still look good. Do it right- do it once, or take the shortcut and end up doing it twice.

If you feel unsure about doing this, I would suggest getting the clutch installed by a professional. They'll know what measurements to make to ensure everything buttons up right and stays right.

 

[magicv8]

The input shaft of the transmission is a fixed length - so is the clutch housing - so the trans can reach the engine.

Early Chevy v8s used a longer TO bearing, newer ones use a shorter one. They are interchangeable along WITH the pressure plate that they are applied to.

I tried a CenterForce years ago and found it to be noisy. It also required a custom (very short) fork pivot that put the fork into the fiberglass in the tunnel. Centerforce refunded my money.

I am currently using an 11 inch Camaro setup with a Bellville (diaphram) spring pressure plate. It is the smoothest clutch I have tried in my car, which has the clutch pedal in the "fast shift" position that requires more leg pressure regardless of the pressure plate you select.

my $.02

 

[vette-dude]

I thought that the length of the TO brg was determined by the type of fingers you have on the pressure plate. Some Pressure plates have flat finger and the others have coned or convexed fingers. The flat style uses the longer TO brg and the coned style uses the shorter one. The dimensions for the scattershield are the same as stock. The pressure plate is what makes the difference in what type TO brg is to be used. Isn't this correct??

Randy :confused

 

[magicv8]

Yes it is correct, and (to the best of my knowlege) early cars are the source of the flat finger plates and long bearings that reach them.

 

[JohnZ]

All C2 Corvettes originally used the short (1-1/4" overall) TO bearing, with bent-finger diaphragm clutches; passenger cars used the longer (1-3/4") bearing. I've installed plenty of Centerforce II clutches in Corvettes, and never had a problem with any of them that used stock bellhousings and clutch forks. Lakewood bellhousings are another story - use the stock GM clutch fork (NOT the Lakewood fork), get an adjustable fork pivot ball, and follow the Centerforce instructions to the letter about setting the distance from the block to the head of the pivot bolt.

 

[magicv8]

I only have a Corvette parts manual - does not cover other models or makes...
BEARING, clutch throwout with collar
55 (1st design)...... 909422 ball bearing type 1-7/8" long)
55-63 (2nd design) 907826 ball bearing type 1-1/4" long)
64-73..................... 907963 (1-7/32" O.L.)

 

[critchie]

Go to the Centerforce web site. They have a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)on this exact same subject. Clutch linkage geometry is important, especially when it comes into play with the throwout bearing. The lengths of all the pieces are fixed when the stock bell housing and clutch stud is used. Throw that off, and you've got to reconfigure the whole thing. That's why Centerforce makes and sells an adjustable bell housing clutch stud for use on scattershields. Look at the TSB. It'll tell you how to set it up.

 

[magicv8]

When I installed a CF, I couldn't adjust the ball stud back far enough to keep the fork off the fiberglass. I even shimmed the ball stud back out of the clutch housing. it didn't help. All that with an 11 inch CF and a 621 clutch housing.

Sometimes the dragon wins.