Tire Removal HELP !!

[81NMVETTE]

I am trying to remove the right front tire I removed the lug nuts (its up on a jack stand) However the tire/wheel wont come off I havent removen the center hub as it has been glued in with what looks like rtv. So before I get out my dead blow hammer what if anything do I need to do to remove the wheel ?
Thanks
Earl
Going to get the boss at work and if there is no reply I will take maters into my own hands.

 

[c4ever]

A good kick always worked for me. :bang

Carlo

 

[bradfordsvettes]

put the lug nuts back on loose and put car on ground and shake it back and forth should loosen up good luck steve

 

[81NMVETTE]

Thanks guys.
I put the nuts back on (loose) droped it back down and shook the car. Then i brought it back up and moved the tire back and forth .It came loose. There was a bunch of rust that was holding it on. Thanks !
Earl

 

[Yoda]

Earl,

Welcome to Wonderful World of Shark ownership.. are you having fun yet

I think we've all been there, so if you have questions or need help post away, someone here has seen it before. It comes with owning a Shark

You just gotta LOVE 'em
Sometimes :love works, sometimes :bash helps and then makes it all worth while

Bud

 

[81NMVETTE]

Thanks Bud.
I have worked on a lot of vehicles in my life but FINALY I HAVE CORVETTE GREASE under my nails and it feels great in fact I am going to leave it there that way it will remind me that I have a Vette
I took the calaper off due to the fact that it was pulling really bad when I stoped. I got the tire off and there was quite a bit of brake fluid arround the caliper plus the pads were soaked in fluid. I removed the rotor the front side of the rotor looked ok however the back side of the rotor was the worst looking rotor that I have ever seen. it was not really gruved but rather 1/2 of the surface was wore down I couldent beleave that it wore like that. Allso the bearings were almost dry !.

I am going to check and see if I can buy the parts here in Albuquerque if I cant find them here I will order them from one of the catalog guys.
Earl

 

[Yoda]

Earl,

Your 81 sure is lucky you found her/him. I can't think of a better home for an L81
I LIKE your attitude, You make us all proud

I bet you can almost hear her/him purr when you enter the garage.

Bud

 

[Stallion]

Earl, we're in the same boat, bro. My father and I just got a Vette a couple of weeks ago (Feb. 1) and I'm totally loving it! There are a couple of things that I need to work on (anti-freeze leak, sound system, some other stuff) and I can't wait to start working on her!

Congrats and good luck with the Shark!

TR

 

[81NMVETTE]

Thanks TR
I sure was glad to see that you and your dad got a C3 !.

It may sound crazy but it is really fun working on the car It's like when I helped the CAF work on a B17 it was like working on history . I feel the same way with the Vette. it was built for performance,and style, I relax when I work on the car . when I find I have a problem I come inside and check the Manual as well as the CAC if I cant find the answer I just do a post and most of the time I will have an answer in 10 to 20 min. What a great bunch of people

Have fun fixing up your Vette !

 

[78SilvAnniv]

I couldn't help but smile...

...as I read the enthusiasm and relaxing attitudes of you working on your vette.

I wish Kenny had these feelings towards the 78 when there's work to be done!
Oh, he crabs, b*tches, moans, curses and threatens to sell her!
He tells me before he starts, exactly how he will behave...he advises me to just listen to him, hold the flashlight and hand him tools.
Since I've been fore-warned, I don't get offended and can even smile (when he isn't looking at me) when he gets particularly colorful.
When the project is done...he is all smiles and appologies for being so crabby!
I think he is so funny! :L
Heidi

 

[WayneLBurnham]

Be careful on R&R vette brake set-ups

You can't just bolt the parts back together, unlike standard disc brakes. Worse, most standard brake shops are not experienced or equipped to set these up right.

The rotor runout has to be determined and, more than likely, adjusted for with shims, even on new parts. This is the perfect time to upgrade to some ATAS built-by-elves-in-a-hollow-tree special rotors too - they don't cost a lot more really, along with some equally nifty calipers. I see we have a brake vendor as a sponsor (BrenBlo?) or Vette Brake Products is another big one. Talk to them about the procedures of installing a new set-up, along with a range of option packages.

With luck you'll be able to do just the fronts for now if money is tight.

I did the switch to silicone fluid, but most hate it, which I did on another car with only drum brakes. I like its super high boiling point and total lack of corrosiveness. You can't use it with anti-lock brakes though. The Ford DOT 4 is great standard fluid, with almost as high a boiling point.

 

[81NMVETTE]

LOL Heidi just crack the whip on him

Wayne
the way that I understand rotor runout is when a rotor is not running true ie the rotor is warped then ir will look as if it is wobbeling this causes the pistion's to go in and out rapadly this action causes the Piston's to draw in air.
My ? is how can shims take the wobbel out of a rotor ? I thought the only way to correct runout was to get a new rotor ?
Thanks for the great info wayne I just want to make sure that I understand the runout issue.
You are correct in that I am now low on funds with the cost of the car and renting a truck and trailer my funds are low to say the least. I have talked to some suplyers and I can get the right front fixed for under 200$ that is new calapers, pads, rotor, hose, these are all orginal parts and not the new improved parts
Earl

 

[78SilvAnniv]

I like that...crack the whip on him...

...how did you know I have a whip? :eek

All of his complaining that I was speaking of, was when he changed out JUST the lower radiator hose yesterday!

Loosen two clamps, a quick knife cut and the split hose is off.
Granted, the area to work in is very uncomfortable (even with jackstands) and cramped trying to work in and around the tranny cooling lines...but again...it is just two clamps and working the hose onto the fittings.

I can't imagine how he'll be when I tell him this winter I want to replace the brakes...with new rotors and calipers. I think the lines and master cylinder are fine...but I definitely need new rotors.
I will probably check out Brembo and VB&P (have purchased suspension stuff from VB&P and been pleased)...I want the brakes to be quality.
Heidi

ps, the whip is a tool used for horse instruction.

 

[WayneLBurnham]

Rotor Runout

I'm no brake dude or expert on these. I just learned this stuff in the past six months.

Yes - you have it correct on the effect excessive runout causes on especially vette type brakes. Vette brakes (on C3's) are some of the oldest performance disc brakes there are. They aren't "live" or "floating" pistons like on most disc brakes (if I have the terms right), rather they are fixed and always barely contact the rotor surface (or hold-off a microscopic amount.) If the rotor wobbles it works the pistons mercilessly and rapidly airs up the system.

They have to check installed runout on any rotor - even brand new factory or performance ones.

I don't know what they shim - I assume the mounting of the rotor to hub.

That runout or wobble has to be on the order of 0.005" in an inch or less. Most brake shops check overall rotor thickness and surface finish, but not mounted/in-use runout. Failure to do that will not only rapidly air up the brakes and wear out the pads, but cause the system to heat up and the calipers to wear internally at the piston seals in mere months and the fluid starts seeping.

 

[MaineShark]

Runout can be corrected by turning the rotor on a lathe (actually, I think the C3 rotors need to be turned while still on the car, which requires a more specialized machine).

Shims would be used to correctly align the caliper to the rotor. Since the caliper is fixed, it needs to be properly centered over the rotor, so both sides work evenly (and neither side drags).

Joe

 

[WayneLBurnham]

OK, that makes more sense to me

I knew they shimmed something in some stage of the process, but not what. Turning it on the car makes sense too.

 

[81NMVETTE]

Heidi
tell him to be glad you are not asking him to overhaul the engine

Maineshark
Thats what I thought . I figured that the runout would have to be corrected by turning the rotor. and you are right about turning the rotor on the hub , The manual says " Due to the close tolerances involved, it is not recamended that the front hub and disc be machined or serviced separtely "

Wayne
I couldent figure why other cars run just fine with a bit of wobbel (rotor Runout) but the Vette just has fits !. Thanks for leting me know about the piston diferences .

Right now I plan on buying a stock rotor/calaper. as well as seals bearings,and new hose. this will get me on the rodad for the least $.
When I asked the parts guy if he had dial indicator that would measure rotor runout he gave me a blank look .
I know what I need is just a regualr dial indicator they make them in a kit with diferent arm lengths .

I allso had a charging problem . I found a broken wire , It was a tough one to find as it was an open inside the insulation . I think that the factory screwed it up when they made the car as the open was inside the plastic channel , What I found was the red charging wire from the battery was red then it went into the black plastic split channel where it was crimped to a green solid conductor wire !!! then it was cripmped later on to a red wire where it was connected to the alt.
Anyway it is charging now so all is well.
I will post some pictures soon as I can. Thanks again all !!
Earl