Tool to remove 65 undercar exhaust

[brumbach]

What is the best tool to remove the exhaust from the exhaust manifold? I assume it's 9/16" nut that's holding it in place. Do I use a super deep socket or something else? Also I'll be replacing the studs with s/s ones. Is there a special tool to remove them also and if so what? Thanks for help in advance. Bill

 

[IH2LOSE]

When ever I start on rusted nuts or bolts,I spray them with PB blaster and let them sit and soak.

I always use brass nuts on my studs,if they dont come off I just split them.

Always use a 6 point socket instead of a 12 to avoid stripping the nuts,

Also a good impact helps on rusted or tough nuts or bolts because of the torque and impact

 

[brumbach]

When ever I start on rusted nuts or bolts,I spray them with PB blaster and let them sit and soak.

I always use brass nuts on my studs,if they dont come off I just split them.

Always use a 6 point socket instead of a 12 to avoid stripping the nuts,

Also a good impact helps on rusted or tough nuts or bolts because of the torque and impact

They're not badly rusted. Only surface rust. The old exhaust isn't really that old. I suspect they'll come off with ease providing I use the correct tool. Obviously a standard box-end wrench won't work nor a standard socket. Can't access the nut. I'm guessing a very deep sock with an extension will do the job but I'll have to buy one to do the job if this is the correct tool. I assume the "6 point socket" you mention must be deep style, right? What should I use to remove the studs?

 

[IH2LOSE]

I would think a regular deep six point will do it.

Sear sells seperate sockets in all sizes.

As for the stud. You should be able to double nut it and then just back it out.

If that doesnt work youll need one of these

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes


I just seen a new stud remover from snap on that is like a collet style that clamps onto the stud then you just take it off. Looks good but I am guessing exspencive.

The one above works well but needs some room to work and your kinda excentric to the work so some times i end up bending the stud

 

[brumbach]

I would think a regular deep six point will do it.

Sear sells seperate sockets in all sizes.

As for the stud. You should be able to double nut it and then just back it out.

If that doesnt work youll need one of these

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes


I just seen a new stud remover from snap on that is like a collet style that clamps onto the stud then you just take it off. Looks good but I am guessing exspencive.

The one above works well but needs some room to work and your kinda excentric to the work so some times i end up bending the stud

Thanks, you've been very helpful. Bill

 

[BarryK]

Bill

for whats it's worth, The couple of times I've had to undo the exhaust off the exhaust manifolds on my '65 and also a couple times off my '78 I just hit it with PB Blaster like Larry suggests, let it soak, hit it with more PB Blaster and let it soak again than used a deep socket to reach the nuts up on the studs.

Both of my cars use the crimp style locking nuts so usually about half of them the nuts won't come off and I've ended up unscrewing the entire stud out during the removal.
I like using new hardware during the reinstall anyway so I just order up all new studs and nuts, remove the studs that managed to stay in and replace them all.

 

[JohnZ]

The correct crimped Stover lock nuts used on those studs can really get seized to the studs over a long period of time and can result in broken studs, which is a real PITA to deal with. I use the Stover nuts, but I run a 3/8"-16 tap through them first, use anti-seize on the stud threads first, and check them occasionally when I have the car up in the air.