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Torque Wrench

Stallion

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2002
Messages
2,305
Location
Jersey
Corvette
1996 CE LT4
Today I'm going to go to Sears to get a torque wrench.

What should I look for? If I remember correctly, isn't there a max torque rating you can put? What should I get? And about the length of it, what is best? Isn't there ability to "add on" to the length to get more torque from just the lenght instead of force (obviously)? Like, adjustable lengths for the wrench?

I want to buy a good one so I don't have to get another. And I think this is quite the important tool for us gearheads. :)

First thing I'll be doing with it is removing the intake manifold (to change the gasket).

Thanks!! :)

TR
 
There are a couple different types of torque wrenches. Some just have a gauge of some sort, and you stop when you hit that torque. Others have a "click" - a ball detent that mechanically disengages the handle from the socket, when you hit the right torque.

Basically, buy the best that you can afford.

As far as what size to get... look at what you will need. Check the torque specs on all the items that you think you may need the wrench for, and choose one that covers that range. Realistically, you'll probably need at least two - one for high-torque bolts, and one for low-torque bolts.

Never add an extension (breaker bar) to a torque wrench. It's a precision instrument, and the handle will be sized to the level or torque. A torque wrench is 90% measurement device, 10% wrench. Only use it for setting proper torque, never as an ordinary ratchet.

Hope that helps...

Joe
 
Sear Digitork #44597. 25- 250 ft/lbs. 1/2 drive. Long handle makes torquing lug nuts a breeze.

or #44596 5-80 ft/lbs 3/8 drive.
 
The best ones are the ones that click. I have used many different types in the years past, and those seemed to be most accurate.

When I worked in the shipyards, we would rebuild diesel engines that were taller than we stood, and the torque wrenches we used to torque the heads were SnapOn ClickWrench and were 6 feet long and took two people to operate, one to hold it in place, and one to pull torque. We would have to pull about 350 lbs. for those heads. Those wrenches cost about $7,000.

Get a good one, and it will last forever!

Bill
 
I read that the most accurate torque wrench is the needle type. With the "Clicker" style, you would have to send it to factory and get it recalibrated within 2% of the torque spec.
With the needle style, all you have to do is bend the needle to zero to recalibrate. I've used both.
You get a much better feel with the needle type. I use the needle type for all my applications. I can feel if there's a bad thread hole about to happen. With the click type, it's too late. You keep turning trying to listen to the click and all of a sudden, you pulled the threads right out of the hole. I'm talking aluminum thread holes of course.
MaineShark has it right. You'll need a few torque wrenches for certain size applications. Say for example, you have a 25/150 torque wrench. You need to torque spec a bolt to 50ft/bs. If you had a 5/75 torque wrench, this would be the one to use.
 
The dial type (like Snap-On) are the most accurate (and expensive); you don't need one like that for typical home use. Sears has plenty of good 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive "click" torque wrenches, which are just fine for home use; just remember to re-set the handle to zero when you're done using it and put it away. Their #44594 3/8" drive "Microtork" wrench ($69.99) will handle 99% of your needs (10-75 ft-lbs); the same one with a digital readout is $20 more, same accuracy. Torque is not rocket science; just stick to manufacturer's specs and take good care of the tool.
:beer
 
It is funny that I read this post today - I am getting ready to go to Sears to RETURN my Craftsman torque wrench - which faithfully served me for 15 years, then died:(

Nice thing about Sears, When it breaks, take it back and get a new one for Free :)

This one is a 1/2" drive "click type" before there were these digi reradings ;)
 
*89x2* said:
It is funny that I read this post today - I am getting ready to go to Sears to RETURN my Craftsman torque wrench - which faithfully served me for 15 years, then died:(

Nice thing about Sears, When it breaks, take it back and get a new one for Free :)

This one is a 1/2" drive "click type" before there were these digi reradings ;)



69 bucks at Sears

Took the old one back to Sears - they were out of stock and were rather "short" about exchanging and suggested (told me) I should go to a different Sears :(

Went 5 miles down the road and picked up a new one - Got to the counter and the lady said "90 day warranty) and showed that to me on the box :(
She asked how long I had it - I replied "15 years" :eek

Got her manager because I said the waranty impies calibration NOT mechanical failure due to the ratchet head braking inside...

He agreed and gave me the wrench for free / exchange

...off to the garage :)
 
The most reliable torque wrenches, in my own experience, are the click type; however, they are the most sensitive as well. Whenever one of my guys drop one on the ground, we send it to check calibration.

Dial-type torque wrenches are durable..i.e. they can survive a drop to the floor; however, these are designed so that the handle 'gives" or bends a predetermined amount of flexing at a particular point from the fulcrum. These are reliable as well, but the error is introduced when the technician reads it -specially in tight places or when it has two scales and the viewing angle is squewed. These, however, are great for determining run-on torque (the minimum torque that a nut will exert while turning on the threads). This is one way to determine if the locking feature of a self-locking nut still is present on a used nut.

The "click" type wrench has an advantage that no matter what, the pre-determined torque point is reached regardless of any lenght added to the lever...i.e. a pipe bar (don't try this on plastic handle wrenches) adding to the lenght will make it easier on a technician to apply 300 ft/lbs, but the wrench will click exactly then.

The only place that the added lenght changes things is at the pivot point. Placing an adapter 3 inches long at right angles with the wrench's handle will maintain the same torque value. This is usefull in tight places. I use this method when torquing intake manifold bolts (the center ones), for the carburator pad gets in the way of setting the socket squarely onto the bolt head.

However, if one aligns the adapter so that it's lenght adds and aligns with the handle, then one is changing the fulcrum on the wrench and the added lenght will have a tendency to multiply the torque value by a fractional amount...i.e. you set 100 lb/lbs and a 3 inch adapter effectively adding to the lenght of the handle from the fulcrum will probably torque the nut or bolt to 125 ft/lbs. ( For example only. I have not calculated the actual value) The same can be done by aligning the adapter with the handle and substracting the effective lenght between the handle and fulcrum.

We use torque multipliers made by Sweeny, and these are designed to torque a nut anywhere between ratios of 7:1 to 12:1. i.e. we apply 45 ft/lbs and the nut is torqued to any value between 315 and 540 ft/lbs. These beat any pipe bar method out there...:L

Calculating the effects of an adapter on a torque wrench is usefull when one only has one range of torque values in one's torque wrench and one must use a value outside such range. i.e. if the torque wrench's value range begins at 40 ft/lbs, then one could calculate the torque setting for torquing a nut to 25 ft/lbs and vise-versa. We get around this by having a collection of wrenches that will cover the whole torque value range in our engines.

Typically, once one is done using the torque wrench then one must set it to the lowest torque value on the scale on click-type wrenches. The most accurate range for torquing is about 15- 20% from the bottom and top ends of the range. i. e. a torque wrench with a range of 20 to 150 ft/lbs provides the most accurate torque value at 23 - 24 torque setting on the bottom and 120 - 127.5 ft/lbs. When this wrench is set at 128 ft/lbs the accuracy begins to decline. However, most manufacturers recommend a particular range of torque values for a specific bolt usage. If one tries to stay in the middle of the range, then this will eliminate any error or inaccuracy.
 
Thank you very much, for the insight into the design, care and maintenance of torque wrenches Gerry. Very detailed! :upthumbs
 
Thanks Ken....at work I have some interesting diagrams and formulas to convert or manipulate torque values.

However, I am on vacation now, so I won't be able to post the diagrams until about the 7th or 8th of July...
 
Thanks so much for everything, fellas. I'm going to go to Sears as soon as possible to get a torque wrench. Very helpful information by all. Thanks!! :D

TR
 
An interesting take on dial wrenches...

I saw (in a Sears flyer, I think) an adapter that fit between a ratchet and a socket, with an electronic torque sensor. Put a socket on the adapter, put the adapter on the ratchet, and read the torque on a digial display.

Joe
 

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