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TPiS miniram

  • Thread starter thirdtimevetteowner
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thirdtimevetteowner

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I just bought a like new, used miniram with fuel rails and FPR for $1000, shipped.
Deal or no deal?
I will need to upgrade my injectors, but this is going to be a winter project.
Anything else I'll need, such as will my fuel lines hook up to it?
My car is a virtually stock (for now) '89 L98, but I am planning on swapping heads to AFR or Brodix,
and a healthy cam like TpiS's ZZ9X. And of course headers, duals, and torque converter in the 2800 stall range.
And I have a spanking new D44 with 3.54's that's also going in.
Does this sound like a good combination, or should I tear it clear down to get rid of the dished pistons?
Anyone know the stock compression ratio? And would it support the above parts?
Oh yeah, forgot to mention I got a C-beam for a Turbo 350 install too.
Any advice appreciated.

Rich K

Should I post this in the performance section?
 
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speedmaster4

Guest
replacing the 305 intake (TPI) with the tpis miniram is worth the price that you paid, several times over...altho you could spend half $ for a GM miniram ( LT1 intake) and get equal performance.
keep your stock cam, just ''degree'' it in to intake centerline at abt 106* (thats abt 10*advanced from oem ''emissions'' setting)...won't pass laboratory emission test for ''new'', but will start better/more power/better fuel mileage...will even have slight ''lope'' at idle.
stock heads coupled with oem ''dished'' pistons are nearly perfect compression ratio if you plan to run on ''pump'' gas (no racing gas @ $7 per gal)....a ''valve job'' would be nice, a few minutes spent to clean up the pockets under the valves will add a bit of power, use the ''thin'' hi-perf head gaskets from your local chevy dealer (only bargain in GM) to gain half a point of compression if premium gas is used exclusively.
above ''stock'' set-up with 3.54 rear will out-run most of the ''after-market money pits'' and still be rock-solid reliable.
 
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thirdtimevetteowner

Guest
speedmaster,
That is the most refreshing thing I have ever read!! Seriously tho, it amazed me about the stock cam being good enough, let alone get a lope from it too. I am going to replace the valve springs so I can install the 1.6 CC roller rockers with no worries. That will have to help the top end a bit. As far as an LT1 manifold, I got tired of looking, and Scott from Lt1 manifolds is unreachable. That's why I jumped on this miniram. How about my throttle body? Should be good enough until I up the compression and bump the cam up, I think. Won't I need to get a chip burned after the gears and miniram are installed? Or will my computer adjust to it after I set the timing as you advised? Thanks for showing interest, and your knowledge to a basic "carb man". Much appreciated.

Rich K
 

Edmond

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Messages
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Location
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2003 Z06
No, your computer is not capable of adjusting to gears. The computer has a little variance to it but not that much.

I think the stock 48mm TB is just fine. I've read that the 48mm TB can handle over 400 HP so you're good to go. Unless you're going with a larger displacement, I would keep the $300 and the stock TB.

I would also suggest a new set of pushrods. For $100, I think that's cheap insurance.
 
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thirdtimevetteowner

Guest
Thanks Edmond for your input also. I already have a new set of CC's pushrods, since I'm installing CC Pro Mags, w/hardened guide plates. My next question is, has anyone changed valve springs with the heads on? Is there room for a spring compresser on those back cylinders? I hate to pull the heads if I don't have to, but I know my stock springs won't handle the extra lift from the 1.6 rockers. Also, are the LT4 springs a good choice? Thanks in advance for any help.

Rich K
 

Edmond

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Corvette
2003 Z06
Okay, my memory stinks but somewhere, I seemed to have read/think that the ZZ4 heads have LT4 or LT4 style springs. I might be wrong on the matter, though.

Someone else will have to chip in.
 

Edmond

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2003 Z06
BTW, stock compression is 9.5:1
 
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speedmaster4

Guest
speedmaster,
That is the most refreshing thing I have ever read!! Seriously tho, it amazed me about the stock cam being good enough, let alone get a lope from it too. I am going to replace the valve springs so I can install the 1.6 CC roller rockers with no worries. That will have to help the top end a bit. As far as an LT1 manifold, I got tired of looking, and Scott from Lt1 manifolds is unreachable. That's why I jumped on this miniram. How about my throttle body? Should be good enough until I up the compression and bump the cam up, I think. Won't I need to get a chip burned after the gears and miniram are installed? Or will my computer adjust to it after I set the timing as you advised? Thanks for showing interest, and your knowledge to a basic "carb man". Much appreciated.

Rich K

if you compare your stock cam to ''street-able'' aftermarket cam specs (you'll need to set up a degree wheel/ dial indicator on the stock cam to get it's story, the factory published info is not helpful) , you will find surpringly little difference-- the aftermarket cam purveyors advertise ''huge'' power gains and note in their ''small print'' that other changes (usually different heads with more squeeze) were made to ''accomodate'' their cam -- many readers are misled.

GM uses the L98 t-body (not ''similar to'' but EXACTLY the same) on the 502 c.i. ramjet...shot rod magazine did drag strip comparos of stock vs bigger t-bods on L98s and went the same or SLOWER with the aftermarket biggies...nuf said.

a new chip that gets more power while utilizing/requiring ''premium'' fuel is fun, but your stock chip will look at maF sensor data and live happily ever after with taller gears, cam reset, and new intake.

i did 1/4 mile evaluation of all four possible combos of 1.6/ 1.5 rockers (intake only/ exh only/ 1.6 both/ 1.5 both) and found NO difference in e.t. or mph...roller ''tip'' rockers will reduce valve guide wear...between four circle track teams that i am involved with, we break abt one aluminum full needle rocker a month...your pick.
 
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Topless_Ruby

Guest
quote=speedmaster4;836295]keep your stock cam, just ''degree'' it in to intake centerline at abt 106* (thats abt 10*advanced from oem ''emissions'' setting)...won't pass laboratory emission test for ''new'', but will start better/more power/better fuel mileage...will even have slight ''lope'' at idle.[/quote]


Will this work on a 93 LT-1 as well?
Have not done played with cam timing for a long time, (Like the 70's man)but I sure would like to get a little extra oomph... out of my ride.

TR:Steer

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speedmaster4

Guest
quote=speedmaster4;836295]keep your stock cam, just ''degree'' it in to intake centerline at abt 106* (thats abt 10*advanced from oem ''emissions'' setting)...won't pass laboratory emission test for ''new'', but will start better/more power/better fuel mileage...will even have slight ''lope'' at idle.


Will this work on a 93 LT-1 as well?
Have not done played with cam timing for a long time, (Like the 70's man)but I sure would like to get a little extra oomph... out of my ride.

havn't tried it (yet) but would bet a big chunk of my beer money that it will also work on an lt1...very common trick (oops, meant ''methodology'') used by all car makers to fool (oops again, meant ''comply with'') the fed emissions requiremnets is to retard the cam (aka ''advance the engine''), which also decreases power output, ultimately increasing pollution except at ''idle'' :crazy

TR:Steer

attachment.php
[/quote]
 

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