Trailing Arm Bolt removal and replacement

[74bigblock]

`74 Coupe; How in the universe do you:

A) Get the old bolt out from that little triangle space between the front A Arm point and the little space between the body???

B) Is there really enough room to get a new one in there with the limited room and the brake lines all running thru there?

 

[I_R_DA_ONE]

Check the thread tools and maybe you can find the answer

 

[WARVET]

The easiest way that I have found is to use some long needle nose pliers. It takes some work, but they seem to help the best.

I've heard some guys have used a piece of string to get it started, but the long pliers worked great for me.

 

[74bigblock]

The easiest way that I have found is to use some long needle nose pliers. It takes some work, but they seem to help the best.

I've heard some guys have used a piece of string to get it started, but the long pliers worked great for me.

WARVET, Are you familiar with that little triangle cubby hole where the head of the bolt resides? Are you saying you have replaced this, and had enough room to do the deed in that little hole?

Thanks!
Dave

 

[WARVET]

yeah, I just did it over the weekend. I put in offset T-arms from VanSteel. The guys at VanSteel told me to use some long needle nose pliers to put the bolt back in there (also works for taking it out). So I borrowed some from the guy next door and it took a couple of tries but I got it in the little triange space and into the hole.

 

[74bigblock]

yeah, I just did it over the weekend. I put in offset T-arms from VanSteel. The guys at VanSteel told me to use some long needle nose pliers to put the bolt back in there (also works for taking it out). So I borrowed some from the guy next door and it took a couple of tries but I got it in the little triange space and into the hole.

Sweet! I bet that was a PITA, and i'm going to find out for myself shortly!

Did your VanSteel T-arms come with stainless hardware by chance? I was also reffered to V-Tech in Rockford, IL who does use the Stainless, they are only $250 each, but oinly have a 3 year warranty.

 

[74bigblock]

Some Time's they can be a Bear !! But they will come outta there!! Take note of shim's ,and try and put them back where there at, this will help the alignment man !! So he has a starting point!! The shim's are how you get Trailing and Tow ajust. and some times you just get Lucky and only have to move 1or2 shim's!! Outher times it take's 2 Prozac, 3 Paxel, 4 Joint's 3 qt. of White Lightning!! I have a pair of Snap On Short nose Long handle needle nose plier's (1 1/2 in. jaw 8 in. handle) something you can get a grip on it!! With T arm removed Inspect Tourqe Box's for Rust. This is the Only time you can check them Good!! On back of frame rail there are gusset's from lower rear frame crossmember to side rail make shure they are solid and not Cracked or Rusted out!! (or this car will be "Flex'e Flyer") when cornering and heavy Acc!! You can also use a Guitar String and pull it thru ! (depending on Bolt) I'm shure Edmond has a G string or two up there!! Now how bout anouther CHEEZ BURGER !! :cool gmjunkie!!

Thaks Junk! I was thinking exactly that... use a guitar string. I've got lots. I also have Metal Ready and POR-15 on hand to get those torque boxes looking and staying perty.

 

[WARVET]

VanSteel came with all SS parts. Give them a call they are very helpful.
Good luck with your own PITA. I'm glad mine is done. Now it's off to the alignment shop. Can't wait.