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tranny removal to install trans-go?

  • Thread starter Thread starter fast.asleep
  • Start date Start date
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fast.asleep

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I was told by a transmission shop that they want to remove the tranny to install a Trans-Go re-programming kit because "it's easier when I have the tranny on the bench"

Something is telling me that doesn't sound right. Should I be running away from these guys?


 
do you have a link to the kit? curious to see what it is exactly... (if it is what i think it is, it seems stupid to remove it)
 
Vettelt193 said:
do you have a link to the kit? curious to see what it is exactly... (if it is what i think it is, it seems stupid to remove it)

lots of sites but few pictures.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0407htp_projls1/

(I talked to Trans-go and they said that transmission removal is NOT required.)

I'll still talk to the tranny guys and get a price. If they are going to pull the tranny anyway I was thinking of a higher stall torque converter. (2400 stall speed?) I'm not quite sure which stall speed would be best...

Does anyone have any converter recommendations for the L98 TPI? (will be slightly modified: intake manifold, runners etc)

:w
 
If they know what they are doing ,it is easier to pull the trans if they do the job right .
I pulled mine out but I installed a vigalante TQ and the ball and clip at the input shaft need to be removed so the flow would increase to the TQ converter.
 
fast.asleep,

I may be too late to help you, but wanted to tell you that I did a Transgo system on an '85 coupe I used to own. You definately do not have to pull the tranny. The hardest part is putting the servo cover (located on the passenger side, about 2 inches from the frame) back on, but w/a little inginuity and a lot of prying it can be done. The rest of it, that is working on the valve body once it is dropped, is outlined very well in the instructions.
Good luck.
Rich (thirdtimevetteowner) this one being an '89 rag w/'92 front and rear, super nice mags, new top, only 43k on it, motor bone stock, but not for long
 
fast.asleep said:
I was told by a transmission shop that they want to remove the tranny to install a Trans-Go re-programming kit because "it's easier when I have the tranny on the bench"

Something is telling me that doesn't sound right. Should I be running away from these guys?



NO WAY! RUN! fast!
 
Moonunit 451 said:
NO WAY! RUN! fast!

It is easier while it's on the bench, but not needed. Unless they are going to open her up and install the return springs that the professional kit includes. This would be a good time for a converter..

Here is my experiance. A Larger converter seems to soften the shifts, so if your going with a high stall like 2600 or 3000 i would put 3 shims in the 1-2 accumulator. gives a nice crisp shift.
-=Rick
 
Obviously I'm a little new to the transmission of my car (hell, I don't know much about any part of it but that's another post. "righty tighty, lefty loosy" has gotten me this far :D)

It seems the higher the torque curve the higher the stall speed. If I go too high (3000 stall) wont I will be out of the power band of my car too quickly?

which stall would you recommend for a slightly modified TPI L98?

(auto, 3.07 rear, headers, dual exhaust, most "free" mods, planing on larger runners and larger intake manifold.)

:w
 
2800 stall should be just fine for street and strap .Subtract about 800 to 1000 rpm from a 2800 and that is about what it should be .

If you are honest with the person you are buying the TQ converter from they will set you up with the right one.
 
I would think that the stock convertor is around 2000 rpm stall a 2500 unit will help get off the line quicker,and with the rear gear your running anything higher will cause the convertor too slip and build heat unless your going back to a lockup style convertor.And what everyone else has said I wouldent drop the tranny if all thats going in is a shift kit.Also as a side note make sure the trans internals are up to snuff because if the clutches are iffy youl be looking at a rebuild soon.
 

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