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transmission swap

  • Thread starter Thread starter LesPaul
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LesPaul

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transmission swap from auto to manual

Is it possible that... to swap my 76 L48 auto transmission to a manual transmission?

a 4 speed or 5 speed or 6 speed.???

Anyone tried that??
 
:eek The clutch pedal and linkage would be the real problem. Good luck. Better you than me.

John G.
 
I have had the same guy working on my vette for 5 years... top notch guy, vettes only. I asked hime the same question about going from and auto to manual. He told me forget it... "you wanna stick... go buy a car with a stick".
 
Talk to Chris (69MyWay). It doesn't sound like it's a bad conversion, at all. And the auto frame is superior to the stick frame, in some respects (removable crossmember).

Joe
 
Well...

Because I live in Australia, its very hard to go and find a C3 vette vith manual transmission. Auto was the only choice...

I really want a manual transmission.

I dont know what to do... I need advices...

Thank you...
 
Concerning the conversion, try contacting Mr. Tracy at Tracy Corvettes. They have a website (I don't know the site address---so do a Google search). I believe he puts out instructions on how to do the conversion from auto to manual. Good luck.

--Chris Kennedy
Houston, Texas
 
LesPaul... The ZZ4 is an absolute dream (for me at least). Great torque, idles well, never runs hot, and decent fuel economy. I tried to repair the original engine in 1997... just too far gone. Installed a re-built, turns out the engine was bore-d beyond belief, only lasted 11 months. I plan on keeping this car until I cannot drive... therefore a new engine was my best choice. And doubling the horse-power has really improved performance... at a recent event at the Texas Motor Speedway I drove 'against' 8 other C4s and C5s on the inside road course. Though I could not pass these guys (I started at the back of the pack), they could not get away from me. I am sure they wondered what was in that old car!

Am I happy? :J
 
Les Paul --

I did the conversion in my '76 a few years ago (I was basically given a T5 manual, my old T350 was leaking badly, I needed a project.... what the heck), and if I had it to do over again probably would not have done it.... at least not with the T5 for sure. I just recently swapped back to an automatic (700R4).

IF you are serious about this, especially if you're going to a non-stock engine, I'd look at one of the Tremec transmissions (if they can take your HP), a beefed-up BorgWarner T-10 (which was the 'stock' manual back then), or some of the other heavy-duty aftermarket manuals.

Check your transmission tunnel for a shifter opening. Prior to '76, there was a shifter hole all the time, I believe. The hole was blocked off with a plate for automatics. At some point they eliminated that hole for cars with automatics..... My '76 is a late production (one of the last few built... and in fact has a lot of '77 parts) and did not have the hole.

Whether a hole is there or not, you'll have to figure out where the manual's stick will come through. With the 'stock' T-10, the shifter mounts to the body/crossmember, not the transmission. The T-5 shifter was integral to the transmission tailshaft housing, but ended up in the exact same spot as a 'stock' shifter.

Also be aware that if you want to use the stock-style clutch linkage, you'll have to weld-on a bracket to the frame, approx. below the master cylinder to hold the 'z-bar' / cross-shaft.
And make sure your engine block has a threaded hole just above the oil filter boss to accept the other end of the shaft.... but it sounds like you're considering an engine swap anyway.
Look through the parts illustrations of any of the cataolg houses (ZIP, Corvette Central, etc.), they have pretty good exploded views of the clutch linkage and associated parts.

Driveshaft will have to change, maybe the outputshaft yoke as well depending on what trans you go with. You'll have to fabricate or modify your transmission mount. Installing the clutch and brake pedals, neutral safety switch wiring, and such is no picnic, but isn't that hard either once the parts are gathered....and the driver's side interior is gutted.....

Like I said earlier.... if I had it to do over again, I probably wouldn't. I'm much happier with the 700R4......

Hope that helps. If you have any other specific questions don't hesitate to ask !

Pancho
 
Pancho,

Great advice.

I am doing the Richmond right now.

There is no real "bolt in" mod like this, especially if you go from auto to stick.

We are doing a 700R4 swap in my buddies 1980 in the next couple of weeks. He is looking forward to that, from his current three speed.

One thing that may help. If you go with the stick shift, you can run a hydraulic clutch which will eliminate the need to weld the brackets for the Zbar on the frame. I am running a hydraulic, and it is much smoother, and cleaner.

This is not a "bolt in" mod either. It requires a hydraulic master cyclinder from a mid 80s full size chevy truck, some trick linkage work on the pedal, and the hydraulic release bearing from quartermaster.
 
Thank you guys for your help...

it sounds like it will be a vey hard swap... especially here in australia...

We'll see...
 
How much work is involved in the swap from the stock AT to the 700R4 in these cars?
 
MrGibbly --
It's not too difficult time-wise, just alot of details:

Shifter needs to be modified for the extra lever position (www.shiftworks.com, also available from Bowtie Overdrives, www.700R4.com).

Crossmember needs to be modifed (bought mine from Bowtie Overdrives) -- this assumes you already have the removable x-member; Driveshaft shortened (700R4 uses the same yoke as a T350, but different from T400?); trans cooler lines twiddled slightly; my exhaust had to be modified since where stock exhaust turns in-board to go through holes in the old x-member, it just touched the new trans; Wiring through the brake switch if you want to use the lockup torque conveter....

Probably most important is to establish the correct TV cable relationship with the carb; check with Bowtie Overdrives for their 'TV Made EZ' system which really isn't that easy but seems to work.....

I've got mine to where the 1>2 and 2>3 shiftpoints are where I want them, but it goes into 4th relatively early (especially at light throttle); I need to do some more work to see if I can delay the shift into 4th without affecting the others too much.

Hope that helps,
 
What transmission do you think I should go with when I do an LS1 swap? the t56 6 speed or the 4L60E auto? I have an '82 so I have an auto tranny now of course
 
If you want to convert to a manual, check out

http://www.keislerauto.com/

They even have the entire clutch pedal assembly. The 5-speed is a complete bolt-on job, with no welding required. (according to them)

I haven't done a conversion yet, but I'm interested.

-Vic
 
I did this on my 79, I used Richmond 5 speed. It was more or less a very easy thing to do...
 
I average about 25mpg on the highway with my 700R4. MAybe more depending on if I have the discipline to keep my foot out the WOT position on the throttle bodies. Its great to be able to drive for more than 200 miles on a half a tank.

GOOD EXAMPLE OF WHY YOU REALLY NEED AN OVERDRIVE - A six hundred mile road trip required a good four tanks of gas with TPI and a TH350. I was averaging 70mph or more, so the rpm was around 3000 for most of the trip. Noisy, gas-guziling road trip.

Its the quality of the ride, reduced wear to the engine, and dollars saved on gas that makes a big difference
 
Yup, it certainly can be done! But Keisler's is damned expensive for their setup. I bought the D&D Performance Viper/GM T56 6-speed. I had an auto so the xrossmember is removable, the mounting location is darn close to stock. The tunnel has to be cut for the shifter but is considered the stock location for a manual. The shifter assembly it comes with locates the arm to the left towards the driver. Uses mechanical speedo cable. Bolts to stock bellhousing and uses mechanical clutch assembly vs. hydraulic type. Gathering the misc. small parts is easy, just depends on what you are willing to pay. You either purchase a new driveshaft or mod your existing. A new yoke is required as well. I think the most PITA part is removing the auto brake pedal assembly and replacing it with the clutch/brake assembly, ya gotta be a contortionist.
 

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