Question: Tripower parts availability ??

[jims427400]

The center holley has always been a little leaky from time to time. When it leaks it drips out of the joint where the fuel line connects to the bowl. And a little extra twist w/ a tubing wrench and I was good to go.

Tonight it began to drip faster so I took the fuel line off and it looks like the large threads that the cap that holds the filter in looks to be stripped on the 1st few threads on the carb body. "male threads about 1" in diameter"

If I have to replace that part of the carburator, are they available ??

Thanks,
Jim

 

[JohnZ]

That large inlet fitting seals to the float bowl casting with a thin black steel gasket, not through the threads - is the steel gasket present?

 

[IH2LOSE]

Stainless steel or just steel lines??

I never have good luck with the stainless lines as the alwasy seam to leak on me after a while.

I just use steel lines now protected with clear paint

if you have a re-ocurring leak I will tell you how I make the joints

I always use "leak lock" its a blue sealer in a tube you get it at a plumbing store. I know these are not "fpt tapered fittings" that actually need sealer because the seal is made in the threads,I know they are mecanical fittings that count on the flare to seal them.But I use the sealer more as a lubricant. And coming from the H.V.A.C industries I just cant make a fitting with out putting a sealer on the threads. the tiny drop of sealer I do use never makes its way out to the back of the fitting so its also never seen

I put a drop (I mean less the a tear drop) on the first 2 threads as you screw something in this acts more as a lubricant then a sealer. I make up my carb joint .Then I use a drop leak lock on my first 2 threads and then a drop of oil on the tube where the fitting mates to the pipe and where the pipe mates to the carb fitting. I always use a larger back up wrench on the carb then I do On the fitting I wanting to tighten. I align the wrenches so I can squeeze them together in my palm of my hand

I tighten them so they are tight and NOT putting tourque on the pipes. (I feel the oil allows me to tighten them with out leaving torque on the pipes)If you tighten your fittings so tight that there is torque on the pipes then the fitting in the carb is sure to back out after a while.

I hope i am getting this across so you can under stand it as one I learned this meathod it saved me allot of anoying leaks

Best of luck

 

[jims427400]

JohnZ and IH2LOSE,
Steel gasket is present and they are NOT stainless.. I may have distorted the middle pipe and probobly should be replaced and it looks like 1st 2or 3 threads in the float bowl looks a bit stripped, do you think thats enough bite to compress the steel washer ??
Anyone know where I can buy just the middle pipe and a float bowl if I need one ??
I like the lube idea, Mine did begin to bind up and distorted while removing and installing...
Thank you both..
Jim

 

[JohnZ]

I've only seen the fuel lines sold in sets.

Larry is right about a little lubricant on the threads of the tube-nut fittings - reduces thread friction and reduces the torque required to achieve a good mechanical seal at the flare (although your issue is the seal from the inlet fitting to the float bowl casting, not the tube nut to the fitting).

Check with Holley to see if they have the float bowls - if not, Chicago Corvette may have them. That inlet fitting only has five male threads - if three mating female threads on the float bowl are stripped, you'll probably strip the remaining ones trying to get the fitting tight enough to seal to the float bowl.

 

[Drjohn]

I've only seen the fuel lines sold in sets.

Larry is right about a little lubricant on the threads of the tube-nut fittings - reduces thread friction and reduces the torque required to achieve a good mechanical seal at the flare (although your issue is the seal from the inlet fitting to the float bowl casting, not the tube nut to the fitting).

Check with Holley to see if they have the float bowls - if not, Chicago Corvette may have them. That inlet fitting only has five male threads - if three mating female threads on the float bowl are stripped, you'll probably strip the remaining ones trying to get the fitting tight enough to seal to the float bowl.

Call our tech # 270 781-9741

I believe they can tell you where to find the parts.

 

[Kid_Again]

I went through a lot of grief to get my Carlisle-bought tripower carbs to work. Which is why I swore off buying anything substantial at Carlisle anymore. Caveat emptor.

Also, I would do everything that I could to avoid dealing with Chicago Corvette. If DrJohn says he can help you, go with his advice.

Me? I decided to just buy a new set of 3x2's and called Holley. They said they no longer sell the old stuff. They sent me to the folks they apparantly sold all their inventory to and just coughed up the bucks. They ran perfectly out of the box.

I know that even a moderate performance manifold and 4bbl will beat the piss out of a 3x2 setup. It must just be me, but when I hammer the throttle, it performs much better down low than my previous setup with the crate engine manifold and an 800cfm Holley.

I guess I'm just too susceptible to marketing.

 

[jims427400]

Kid,
I too agree that I wouldnt be happy with anything but the tripowers under the hood . Just love how they look.
I did finally get the leaks resolved but then it ran like crap after reassembly. Took the carb apart to look for dirt in jets but looked ok. took it for another run and still ran like crap..
Then I dissconnected the choke just for grins to see if that made any difference, boy do I feel stupid.. The damn thing runs better now than it ever has.
Now I have to figure out how to adjust my choke to open at warmup..
I dont remember, what engine did you go with under those tripowers ?
Jim

 

[jims427400]

I also wanted to thank Larry for the lubricant tip. I had to remove center carb and lines 2 more times, and with never seize they easily came apart and didn't bind in the fuel bowl. This forum is the best, now for some tips on choke adjustments..

 

[Kid_Again]

Kid,
I too agree that I wouldnt be happy with anything but the tripowers under the hood . Just love how they look.
I did finally get the leaks resolved but then it ran like crap after reassembly. Took the carb apart to look for dirt in jets but looked ok. took it for another run and still ran like crap..
Then I dissconnected the choke just for grins to see if that made any difference, boy do I feel stupid.. The damn thing runs better now than it ever has.
Now I have to figure out how to adjust my choke to open at warmup..
I dont remember, what engine did you go with under those tripowers ?
Jim

hey jim:

the tripower sits on a '69 low rise manifold on top of zz440

joe

 

[kpic]

I know that even a moderate performance manifold and 4bbl will beat the piss out of a 3x2 setup. It must just be me, but when I hammer the throttle, it performs much better down low than my previous setup with the crate engine manifold and an 800cfm Holley.

I guess I'm just too susceptible to marketing.

Very few setups will beat 3x2 down low.

The old 440 6 pack disapproves a lot of the aftermarket manifold and dual feed single 4 will beat any 3x2 set up talk.