Help! Upper control arms

[jerry c]

Good morning to all. I am in the process of replacing the bushings in my '81, and have run into a minor snag. The bottom control arms were replace when the engine was rebuilt. I decided to do the rest as a winter project, but not sure on the top control arms on how to get the ball joint out. Any advice,comments, help would be greatly appreciated.
jc

 

[6880 Mike]

Not sure what you're asking. Factory ball joints are riveted to the control arms. In order to replace them, the factory rivet heads have to be chiseled/ground off.

 

[jerry c]

Not sure what you're asking. Factory ball joints are riveted to the control arms. In order to replace them, the factory rivet heads have to be chiseled/ground off.

Sorry about the expaination. But you told me what I needed to know. What I'm doing is replacing the bushings in the upper control arms. Then moving on the the rear suspension. I hope

 

[Peer81]

A fun job doing in the winter
Good luck and let us know how it went!

Greetings Peter

 

[jerry c]

A fun job doing in the winter
Good luck and let us know how it went!

Greetings Peter

Hey, thanks Peter. I'm sure you know all about the cold

 

[6880 Mike]

...replacing the bushings in the upper control arms...

You can replace control arm bushings without necessarily removing the ball joints. That said, for most of us, if it's time to replace the control arm bushings, it's usually time to replace the ball joints.

 

[Peer81]

Hey, thanks Peter. I'm sure you know all about the cold

17 degrees Fahrenheit and one feet snow. It's even not funny anymore....:ugh

Greetings Peter

 

[jerry c]

You can replace control arm bushings without necessarily removing the ball joints. That said, for most of us, if it's time to replace the control arm bushings, it's usually time to replace the ball joints.

Thanks for the info Mike, I'm going to take your advise and replace the ball joints while I have them out.

 

[jerry c]

upper control arms

Not sure what you're asking. Factory ball joints are riveted to the control arms. In order to replace them, the factory rivet heads have to be chiseled/ground off.

Hey Mike just finished the bushings and ball joints. I really appreciate the help and suggestion to replace ball joints. It went rather well considering this is my first time.
Now I'm going to start on the rear end and replace all bushings. Ha ha .

 

[jerry c]

upper control arms

A fun job doing in the winter
Good luck and let us know how it went!

Greetings Peter

Hey Peter I finished the upper control bushings and ball joints today. It wenr a lot better than I expected but not as easy as I would have liked it:L. But none the less it went well. Oh and the temp rose to blistering 27 degrees

 

[jerry c]

upper control arms.

Well got everything put back together on rear end. Took it out for a short test drive and drove rather well. I called to have an appointment for an alignment. Got in it the next day to take it to the shop and low and behold no brakes. Kind of sounds like Murphy's Law. Anyway i bled the brakes and couldn't get a good flow from lines. Replaced master cylinder, great flow, no brakes.When I start the engine and push the brake pedal I can hear a noise, sounds like a diaphram with a hole in it. Was going to change out the booster, but have had 2 neighbors tell me that they don't think that is my problem and after reading how to replace the booster, want to be sure that is my ptoblem.And you have all been super and on the money. So again asking for any and all advice. Oh have been trying to post a picture but unable to get one on. thank you
Jerry

 

[ToddLG]

Most likely the brake proportioning valve is stuck to one side. Bleed a front and the rear at the same time and normally this will re-center the valve. Once the valve is centered the dash warning brake light will go off. Then bleed others as needed if the pedal is not hard.
By no means this is the correct way to bleed Brakes...this is to just re-center the valve so you can bleed the system normally.
ToddG

 

[jerry c]

Most likely the brake proportioning valve is stuck to one side. Bleed a front and the rear at the same time and normally this will re-center the valve. Once the valve is centered the dash warning brake light will go off. Then bleed others as needed if the pedal is not hard.
By no means this is the correct way to bleed Brakes...this is to just re-center the valve so you can bleed the system normally.
ToddG

Hey thanks Todd will give that a shot tonight. Let you know how it goes. Oh by the way you are lucky getting yours at 52. I was 70 but i feel like 52, except when I crawl out from under at night and then it's more like 102.

 

[ToddLG]

Hey thanks Todd will give that a shot tonight. Let you know how it goes. Oh by the way you are lucky getting yours at 52. I was 70 but i feel like 52, except when I crawl out from under at night and then it's more like 102.

Jerry, any update?

 

[jerry c]

brakes

Jerry, any update?

Hey Todd sorry I haven't given you an update. I replaced the proportioning valve. Finished it yesterday, thought I had it akk fixed went to take it for a little ride and the brakes are thjere very minimal and almost on the floor;. If I stand on the brake and give it enough gas I can squell out. I'm lost. of course I've always been lost.Ha Ha. thinking of taking to the mechanic who is going to do my alignment and let him see what I'm missing. It's got to be me. Missing something. But I really do appreciate all your help. Unless you are a mind reader and can prob mine to see what I have done wrong:L