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voltage reading

  • Thread starter Thread starter DWC
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DWC

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My 1996 sits in the garage for about a week at a time before I am able to drive it. Recently, after about a week, I started it and drove it. Almost immediately the SYS light began to flash. I know it could be a host of things, but I immediately began wondering if it could be the battery. The next day I started it and drove it and no SYS light. Today I started it again and drove it with no SYS light. The volt meter reads 15.1 to begin with and after driving it a short while it drops to 14.7. It further drops to 14.5 and 14.3 where it settles in and stays.

Trying to figure out if my SYS is related to battery or alternator. I know I will probably not know for sure until I take it and have both the battery and alternator checked. My question is "are my voltage readings acceptable or do they indicate a problem?" I wish there was a way to keep the battery fresh even when not driving my 96 every day. Any input or ideas?
 
Readings sound right to me. The alternator should be putting out upwards of 13.5-14 volts to keep the battery charged and power everything else.

Regarding keeping the battery fresh, consider a trickle-charger. There are a number of models I've seen (anywhere from wal-mart to Corvette Central) that either plug into the cig lighter socket or connect to the battery directly. There's even one that's solar-powered if you park your car outside.

[RICHR]
 
Actually, this voltage sounds a little high. Once you get in the 15 volt range, you risk cooking the battery. The voltage range that rrubel listed is what you need to have.

If it doesn't go over 15.1, you will be okay, but I would fully expect shortened battery life.

Good luck,
 
If the voltage output is a little high, does this mean that I have a potential alternator problem? What causes too high of an output and how should it be corrected?
 
The alt is working fine. At idle, you should see a reading at approx. 14.1/14.2. And it seems that your battery charges back up to a to a normal reading. I would ride my motorcycle more than my truck. Just this year, I changed the original battery from my '96 S-10. Not bad for a Delco with over 6.5 years of service. In theroy, a battery will lose 1% of charge per day. So, if you let the car sit for over a week, you (in theroy) will have a battery charged at 91% of it's capacity. That's why you see a spike in the charging rate. Load test the battery if you want to know how healthy it is. The alt. is not the problem.
 
Thanks guys for your input and responses. I was worried I had a problem when the SYS light began to flash. But it has not showed up again the last three times I drove it! I am choosing not to worry about it unless it begins to show up again.
 
I have to agree with Doc, 15.1 is too much for a 12 volt lead-acid battery. 13.5 -14.5 is what you should be seeing. It's the internal regulator's job to keep the voltage output at an acceptable level, up to the rated current output of the alternator. Sounds like a bad regulator.

Bill
 
The Art of Troubleshooting

My research shows that 12.5 to 15 volts of output, is operating correctly. If the regulator was faulty, then the reading would be overcharging past 15 volts, thus cooking the battery. DCW states that the current reads steady. DCW also states, that the SYS light has not come on in the last three outings.
The key to this troubleshooting question is not the alt. The alt. is working fine. It's not the battery (so far) because, the battery seems to hold a charge when driven. The problem is.....the car sits and is "not used often".... thus, > the battery is losing it's charge.
 
Re: The Art of Troubleshooting

My research shows that 12.5 to 15 volts of output, is operating correctly

I'm curious to know where this info comes from. In my experience I've always been told (and my '84 shop manual says the same) that 14.5 is the highest you should see.

If the regulator was faulty, then the reading would be overcharging past 15 volts, thus cooking the battery.

15.1 IS past 15[.0]

DCW states that the current reads steady.

I'm assuming that you meant to say he stated that the voltage reads steady? (not current) That's true, but it DID go up to 15.1, which is too much (albeit by a very small amount).

DCW also states, that the SYS light has not come on in the last three outings.

I don't even know what a "SYS" light is, but I'm assuming that it wouldn't come on at all if there weren't a problem of some sort?

The key to this troubleshooting question is not the alt. The alt. is working fine. It's not the battery (so far) because, the battery seems to hold a charge when driven. The problem is.....the car sits and is "not used often".... thus, > the battery is losing it's charge.

I realize there are two "issues" here:

1) the "SYS" light came on, again I'm assuming this means some sort of problem. DWC is concerned about the alternator output levels.
2) He doesn't drive the car alot, and therefore worries about the battery staying charged while not being driven.

Maybe the high (seemingly temporary) alternator voltage is not causing a problem, but it could get worse as time goes on. Something worth keeping an eye on.

The car's electrical system will always draw a small amount of current from the battery when it's not running. The only thing you can do about it is disconnect the battery, or put a trickle charger on it (as has already been suggested).

Please don't get me wrong here, I don't mean to start an argument or anything like that. I simply think that based on the information given that there is a slight cause for concern from a situation that should be monitored closely, that's all. (and hopefully I'll learn something in the process!) :)

Bill
 
Bill.....sure, lets start an argument (in a fun way). What you are doing is, "assuming" there is a problem. I am saying there is nothing wrong by, "deductive reasoning." You are correct... I meant "voltage." I don't have a copywrite date on this book. This is an invaluable copy called, Automobile Guide, by Frederick E. Bricker. It covers early, to modern automotive components.I paraphrased the voltage sentence from the book. So as not to ask permission from a quote.
Let us say the voltage reg. was faulty. The higher in rpm you go, the more current is made. If the reg was bad, you'd see the needle peg at, and past 18V. Therefore, the voltage reg is doing it's job. Think of it this way. It's a Vette, with gobs of electronic components. Every component needs different amounts of current. Here's the battery already at a low charge rate from sitting, and the starter motor takes the biggest draw of current. The battery's voltage drops even more! Now the engine is running, and some of the electronic components need at least 12 Volts of current to funciton. The battery needs even more! What does the voltage reg do? It increases the current to feed the battery more than the 14.+ voltage it would normally need if it were in a good state of charge. Thus, the spike in the voltage. The SYS (charging system) light comes on, showing a low charge state. The battery is fed it's current. The chemical reaction happens inside the battery. The car is driven enough to the point of a fully charged (in theory) battery.
The car is driven on 3 other ocassions. There is no spike in voltage. The SYS light does not come on. Also, to show the alt. is not a problem... DWC is NOT stranded on the side of the road with an exploded battery, (over charging) or is running the battery down...."Total Loss" style (no current output from the alt.).
This is why most auto shops have the reputation they do. You are ready to change out the alternator because you think that is the problem. Which is what an amature mechanic at a shop would do. I see a car with a low battery from sitting. It's that simple.
I'm using my empirical knowledge, and a little logical deduction with the excellent information DWC has related us. Bottom line, I expect the battery to go south because of the sitting factor. If the car is a high milage car, then brushes are about to be needed. If that's the case, just replace the alt. with the new battery, and there should be no problems. If the car has low milage...battery only.
Bill? You're up.
 
Light Flickering

What would cause a flickering condition - happens to headlights and courtesy lights - rapid-fire flicker when cold, warm or hot - most noticeable on headlights in the dark?

Voltage reading stays constant on dash, and flicker occurs if reading 14.1, 14.3, 14.5 etc. or whatever. Somewhat annoying condition. No codes.

Jack
 
[What you are doing is, "assuming" there is a problem. I am saying there is nothing wrong by, "deductive reasoning."

So the "SYS" light you guys are talking about is just a purdy little light soley for the driver's entertainment?

You are correct... I meant "voltage." I don't have a copywrite date on this book. This is an invaluable copy called, Automobile Guide, by Frederick E. Bricker. It covers early, to modern automotive components.I paraphrased the voltage sentence from the book. So as not to ask permission from a quote.

Gotcha

Let us say the voltage reg. was faulty. The higher in rpm you go, the more current is made.

Absolutely wrong! The alternator is a combination of an AC producing generator, an AC-to-DC converter (the diode rectifier), and a DC voltage regulator. The voltage output of the AC generator WILL increase with RPM, as will the DC output of the diode rectifier assembly, and the regulator's job is to keep the overall output of the alternator at a constant voltage. The amount of current drawn from the alternator is soley dependant on the amount of load (resistance) placed on it, from Ohm's law: Current = Voltage/Resistance.

The battery itself has an internal resistance, lower battery charge = lower internal resistance = more current drawn from the alternator. Turning lights on adds parallel resistance, which means more load, which means more current drawn from the alternator.

If the reg was bad, you'd see the needle peg at, and past 18V. Therefore, the voltage reg is doing it's job.

Maybe, maybe not. It's impossible to predict what WILL happen if the regulator goes bad. Now if the regulator were "removed" from the circuit...then what you describe is the output of the diode rectifier circuit.

Think of it this way. It's a Vette, with gobs of electronic components. Every component needs different amounts of current. Here's the battery already at a low charge rate from sitting, and the starter motor takes the biggest draw of current. The battery's voltage drops even more!

No argument there.

Now the engine is running, and some of the electronic components need at least 12 Volts of current to funciton. The battery needs even more! What does the voltage reg do? It increases the current to feed the battery more than the 14.+ voltage it would normally need if it were in a good state of charge.

You are using the word "Volt" as a unit of measurement for current...this is completely incorrect. Voltage is expressed in volts, Current is expressed in amps. Voltage is defined as the potential difference in the quantity of electrons between two points. Current is defined as the quantity of electrons flowing through a conductor.

A fully charged battery has an abundance of electrons at the negative terminal. When a resistance (or a load) is placed across the battery terminals the electrons start to flow from the negative terminal to the positive terminal, thus creating current. If these electrons are not replenished (via the alternator) then the potential difference of electrons between the negative and positive terminals (the Voltage) starts to drop.

This is why most auto shops have the reputation they do. You are ready to change out the alternator because you think that is the problem. Which is what an amature mechanic at a shop would do. I see a car with a low battery from sitting. It's that simple.

I believe what I suggested was to simply keep an eye on it.

I'm using my empirical knowledge, and a little logical deduction with the excellent information DWC has related us. Bottom line, I expect the battery to go south because of the sitting factor. If the car is a high milage car, then brushes are about to be needed. If that's the case, just replace the alt. with the new battery, and there should be no problems. If the car has low milage...battery only.
Bill? You're up.

Sitting for a week at a time should NOT cause any harm to a battery, unless there is a parasitic drain that is discharging the battery below 9 volts or thereabouts. Overcharging however WILL damage the battery (alternator output voltage too high). A discharged battery should NOT cause an increase in the voltage output of the alternator, but it WILL require the alternator to deliver more current (due to the decreased internal battery resistance).

This discussion has gone beyond the scope of helping out DWC. If you want to continue to debate basic electronics theory, then let's do it in a separate thread or off-line.

To DWC I'll say again...dude just keep an eye on it.

Jack, the "flickering" is probably in fact do to a slight fluctuation in the output of the alternator...you're voltage gauge is just not fast enough to reflect the rapid fluctuations. I've noticed this on my car as well at idle.

Bill
 
Bill...Thanks for the basic electrics 101 seminar. I've learned more from you, than you did from me. So, you helped both DWC and I...in a round about way. Electronics was never my strongest area. Either way, I can still figure out an auto/cycle electrical problem (no electronics engineering background here)....it just takes me a little longer. This thread is over for me.
 
Thank you all for keeping this civil...

...and many thanks for the illumination (pun intended) on basic electrical theory. :upthumbs
 
Point to BILL!

Thank you for once again shining the Ohm's law light...

My take.....

In that style dash... the voltage gauge is much like the temp gauge.. a GROSS avg. device not a precision picec of test equipment.

The 100% fool proof way is to measure on the BACK of the ALT output stud.

Electronic components have tolerances like mechanical parts.... and like mechanical parts time , wear & temp have an effect on tolerances.. So 15.1 is not WAY outta spec.. just ever so slightly high and worth keeping an eye on.

I would check ALL your connection points ( batt terminals ground straps etc)

AND

Is it the stock alt?


Well I have to go back to my brakes ( forgot to put in the Bias springs...OOPS!)

Vig!
 
Guys,

Thanks again for all of your great help! Vig, concerning your question, as far as I know it is the stock alternator. I have had the car for one year. It had 45,000 miles on it and now it has 47,000 miles. Everything else seems to be stock and original. I continue to take it on short drives and monitor the digital volt meter. When first started it reads 15.0 or 15.1 but soon drops back to 14.7 then settles in at 14.3 - 14.5. I agree with you that I should monitor it but not necessarily mess with it at this time.
 
I drive mine about once a week, sometimes more often. When I first crank up I see 14.9 & then it usually ends up around 14.2. Its been doing this for years. I don't think you have a particular problem at least I hope not. Could be the calibration of the gauge is off slightly.
 
Pep boys sell an alternator checker for about $7. Get one. It is a quick cheap way to find out if the alternator is bad. I have used the tester on 3 cars and found 2 alternator problems.

If the alternator checker suggests there is a problem:

a. remove the alternator and have the shop run a load test. Watch them do it an make sure they do the basic test and the load test.

b. Carefully use a prybar on the belt tensioner when taking out the alternator.

c. A common alternator problem is a bad diode. Most shops will try and sell you a reconditioned alternator for about $140, whereas the diode costs about $15. Replacing the diode is doable with minimal tools & effort.


Chris
 

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