What Cam should i go with?

[Mad-Mic]

well while i had the hood up i decided to take a look at the air filter lid and said hmmm i think i'll cut it open. got my trusty tin snips out and started cutting. dang this isn't working at all! busted out the jigsaw. after 3 blades later it's done. nice and clean all the way around till almost the flat part of the lid. nice and open pulled the plastic part off that the lid bolts to and decided to clean that out and found some water in it from washing the engine off. not much and the filter was clean and dry still. so looking at the MAF i decided hmmm let me take a look at that and see if i feel comfortable cutting the screens. took it off and decided to get my trusty razor knife out and start cutting. nice and clean no screens! looked at my thottle body to see if it was dirty at all and it was clean. also realized my vette wasn't a Virgin stock beauty as i thought she was! she had an air foil already bolted to the throttle body!

well i guess 2 free mods and finding another isn't bad for 20 mins worth of work!

took her out for a spin to see if i could feel alittle more pull. she seems to pull alittle more from 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm pretty steady! i am pretty happy with that! took her down rt 10 and stepped on it to air her out and hit 120 pretty easy and she still was sucking hard for some more!

all in all i'm pretty happy with it. i still gotta do the TB bypass yet. since i only got about 20k in miles left on my warrenty and everything seems sound i think she's ready for some other mods. i am gonna put a cam in her and 1.6 rr's if they will fit under the stock valve covers. anyone know if this is possible? then muffler eliminators and a trans go shift kit with a 2800 rpm stall and my hayden tranny cooler. Also want to add a fuel pressure regulator and custom chip. i think with these mods i can get an extra 75 hp and dip down to low to mid 13's. then when winter time comes maybe a new intake or just port polish and seimese my stock one.

i don't want to get too wild with my vette (yet) cause i still got to finish my LT-1 conversion 82 Z/28 all this and i'm trying to find a way to buy another vette! a nice ZR-1 or Callaway in the fall/winter would be nice!

we shall see

which cam should i go with for a stock lower end L98? i 'd like a nice loopy sounding cam kinda like a rhhut rhhhut that makes awesome power from 2800-5500 rpm or so

TPiS Hydraulic Roller Cams (L98 & LT-1)


All TPiS hydraulic roller cams have a cast iron distributor gear. This allows you to use the stock distributor gear.

ZZ-9 HydraulicRoller:

Intake Exhaust Advertised duration 282 287
Duration at .050 212 226
Gross lift .483 .520
Lobe separation 112

ZZ-409 Hyd Roller:

Adv. duration 287/287, duration @.050 226/226, Lift .520/.520. 112 LSA.

ZZ-9X Hyd Roller:

duration @.050 225/240, Lift .525/.558 on a 112 LSA. ZZ-X Hyd Roller:

Adv duration 290/290, duration @.050 239/239, Lift .558/.558, on a 112LSA.

i'm thinking the ZZ409 or the ZZ 9X cam?!?!?! Can anyone help me make a valid decision for what i'm trying to accomplish here? And how much HP could i expect from these mods + Cam?

Thanks!

 

[vader86]

I think ZZ9 is the biggest Id go with a stock TPI, ZZ409 would be a stretch and the others are just too big and make their power at too high an rpm for the TPI.

I would not use a 2800 TC with the TPI, 2400 is quite adequate.

1.6RR will not fit under the stock covers, unless you start hacking at the insides and grind them down.

The TC and these free mods should definitely get you in 13s with good weather. Headers would be a definite help though.

 

[Mad-Mic]

so 1.5's will fit ok? i am planning on putting on an new intake or atleast port the hell out of the one i got and polish it. i'd like the cam to make power to 5500 to 6000 rpm after i do the intake so i am trying to plan ahead.

thanks for the input Vader!

 

[grumpyvette]

even a ported TPI intake is a huge restriction to airflow over about 4500rpm, your limited to a cam with no more than about 220 intake dur. @.050 lift if you are trying to efficiently match the flow charicteristics of the stock heads and TPI intake (even ported)
this would be a very hot cam for the TPI (YOU WILL NEED A CHIP TO GET THE BEST RESULTS) and a 2400rpm-2800rpm stall converter would certainly help,(almost mandatory) and dont forget that youll need to check all clearances
http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00402&x=35&y=12

 

[rrubel]

Mike, you're welcome to drop by and look at the cam I'm installing in mine - Lingenfelter 74219. Supposed to be the best match to the Accel SuperRam that is also sitting there waiting for installation...
[RICHR]

 

[Mad-Mic]

sounds good Rich. when will be a good time?

 

[rrubel]

Best time would be either Sunday evening (early) or beginning of next week...
[RICHR]

 

[sothpaw]

Rich,
What are the spec's on that?

Mic,
The shop is P&G auto on Furnace Branch Rd.

 

[Mad-Mic]

sunday is good for me anytime just let me know.

 

[vader86]

Rich,
What are the spec's on that?

Specs on the 219?

219/219 @ .050"
.560/ .560 w 1.6rr
112 LSA

 

[rrubel]

Yup. They spec it as matched for the SuperRam, but will also work with the stock intake. They say you can use the stock lifters "after inspecting for wear" - how does one tell if the lifters are worn?

Actually, here's another dumb question - the cam is designed for hydraulic roller lifters. Am I going to need a retrofit roller kit, or does the Vette's L98 have roller lifters already?

Thanks.

[RICHR]

 

[vader86]

Youll need a conversion kit for the 86, the roller cam started in 87. Let me know how that goes, because thats probably what i'm going to have to do unless i get my 383 before i get the SR.

 

[sothpaw]

Rich,
You'll have to budget for new lifters. Both my heads guy and
Paul say that catastophic wear events will happen if you use
lifters with more than 50k mi on them. Basically, the stock
cam and the lifters wear together.

Also, damn, that is more cam than I'm putting in. Very similar,
though. Mine is 214/224@050, 112LSA, 566/563 lift w/1.6 RR's.
I didn't want too much duration as the idle gets very rough, and
at some point you can't get a good take off from the line. Also,
I wanted something that would not be a high rpm cam--you
want to shift after your peak horsepower and not over-rev the
engine, since you have the stock bottom end. The LT1 has been
blown up at 6200 rpm during autocross. I thing more duration
leads to a higher rpm for max power.

 

[rrubel]

Conversion kit... dang... more money . I think LPE's kit is $400; have to look at TPIS's. Well, that's why the cam will be a winter project while the intake and TB will go on this summer. Gotta save for an exhaust, too.

Andy, according to LPE, the 219 has excellent idle characteristics. One of the reasons I went with this particular setup. Was told by someone who has this identical setup in a 91 that it doesn't shift the peak TOO much upwards, but the engine also doesn't die off after 4800 RPM like the stock setup does.

My goal was mid-13's; with a bit more work I may even make it into the very high 12's which is plenty for me (I say that now...).

[RICHR]

 

[vader86]

More duration usually means that the power peak is shifted upwards in rpm, depends though on the intake greatly. A huge cam would almost certainly behave that way.

The SR & 219 is supposed to be smooth as silk at 750rpm idle all the way up to 6000rpm. Well above the TPI's limits to feed it.

With the right heads and some headers, 12s will be no problem for the SR & 219.(if its tuned, if not it could probably STILL get 12s). With stock heads, youre really choking it. Likewise for headers.

 

[rrubel]

It's got one of Jeff's custom PROMs, so it's tuned. Wasn't planning on doing headers, or at least not for a long while. It'll be tough enough saving for the retrofit kit and exhaust both.

I did realize that I needed an install kit for the cam; the older (like mine) L98's need this thing with a ring, couple screws, and a friction button (?). Cheap, so I ordered it now. Also some guide plates to be safe.

Do hydraulic roller lifters use the same length pushrods as the non-roller ones? Or do I need to get a new set of those, too? Mine have maybe 1000 miles on them and they're hardened moly.
[RICHR]

 

[sothpaw]

Rich,

You will want Jeff to re-tune your prom for this cam. That is a radical change for the
engine to accept. I had my chip burned especially for this cam--although actually,
I told them 212 and it's actually 214. But I'm told it will be ok.

Headers and exhaust would be a great combo for you, l've found this cam thing to be
a headache. I only did it because I really wanted the heads to go to full potential. By
a headache I mean: new valve springs, lifters, possibly roller rockers. The extra lift
I think will wear the springs and pushrods faster.

 

[vader86]

the friction button you speak of is probably the cam button to keep the cam from walking

It will need a specific chip reprogram for the cam and the SR though, if its not already programmed for it.

I would bet that the pushrods are the same, but i dont know for sure.

 

[rrubel]

What I think I asked Jeff to do was program it for the SR and 52mm throttle body, and we'd get it re-done for the cam later.

Andy, you know I'm saving for the Power Effects . Hopefully at this year's Carlisle. Headers? Really wasn't going to bother. May do that much later.

[RICHR]

 

[Mad-Mic]

What I think I asked Jeff to do was program it for the SR and 52mm throttle body, and we'd get it re-done for the cam later.

Andy, you know I'm saving for the Power Effects . Hopefully at this year's Carlisle. Headers? Really wasn't going to bother. May do that much later.

[RICHR]

hey Rich give me a call i think i know where some AIR LPE long tubes are for L98's if your interested 600 bucks new. from LPE they are 800.

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