While fixing horn ring... steering column now like broken neck!!

[Bluemill]

I finally get all the new parts I need, and then realize the OEM lock plate is indeed a lock plate for the infamous column lock fiasco. I do like the part though in that it will give back bone to the nylon cancelcam/brush ring. I'm attaching pictures of the parts. A nice auto trans specialist did a super job removing the lock holes from the edge of the lock plate, so that's why it appears smooth on the perimeter.


So last night I put it all together, carefully indexing all the column pieces, especially the clockspring. My GM tool that pushes the lock plate down so as to slip on the circlip did a great job of holding that big spring down, another benefit of the modified part. The GM recall lock ring is also pictured to show how small it is, and how difficult it would be to hold down the spring to get the clip on.


I put on the covers, and then reach for the wheel. As soon as I try to put the wheel on, I know something is very wrong. The end of the column is limply moving around in the end of the covers. Like a broken neck. I was warned about this, but I did not ever hit this piece hard with a hammer. All I did do is tap the clip into place with a screw driver. When I was trying to get the wheel off was when I may have damaged it.


Now what? I can't believe how fussy this f'n job is. My car has been down now for 2 months.


Help!

Bluemill

 

[dadaroo]

Exactly what is "it"? I can't figure out what you damaged from your discussion.

 

[Bluemill]

I think it's fixed or soon will be with new parts.....

The pics above show first the back side of the cancel cam/horn brush ring. It's hard to see but you might detect a groove down the middle of that brass ring from 100,000 miles of wear and lack of recent lubrication. Next to it is the GM column lock recall non-lock plate, very tiny and hard to put on! Also pictured is the top side of the nylon cancel cam again, with the recall lock piece in the middle, which indexes the horn electrical connection. To its right is the usual lock plate as modified, by cutting off the outer 3/8" which included the lock button holes, intended to lock the wheel. I still have the lock button in the column base, but they gutted the electronics in the recall- about 7 years ago.

The column is loose in the end of the column housing because I put the bearing race in backwards, or call it bassackwards! I thought the tapered end of the race fit nicely into the spring of the upper column, but that was really upside down. The race fits down snug into the bearing to take up all of the slack. As a result of my ineptitude, I crushed this race while using my GM presser tool. Live and learn.

So, all I need is the 2 bearing pieces, lube them up and put it all back together- and I'll finally be back on the road again.

You really need the GM tool to do this procedure, i.e. compress the column spring while you slip on the lock circlip.

If any body wants to borrow mine ... just PM me.

Best always,

Bluemill