Does anybody have a good picture that CLEARLY shows which wire on the wiper motor is the ground lead? Also, how many volts should be at each wire to the wiper motor under what conditions?
Don't know how you'd do it other than just taking out enough screws to tilt the center gauge cluster far enough forward to unplug it and check for power with a DVM. I think it grounds thru the gauge panel. At least it does on my '73.
The motor gets ignition-switched 12 volts all the time (yellow wire), and the operating speeds are obtained by grounding the other two circuits AT THE SWITCH - if you don't have a good ground at the switch, the wipers won't work.
To add to what John Z has said, many cars have the typical "broken bezel" syndrome.....the bezel is cracked, actually broken in half at the thin areas below the wiper switch.
With the bezel "non continuous", that will wreak havoc with the ground to the switch itself. The switch may not be grounded at all if the bezel is broken AND separated.
The cure? 1. New bezel or 2. Run a separate wire from the switch mounting itself to a known good ground behind the dash. Chuck
To add to what John Z has said, many cars have the typical "broken bezel" syndrome.....the bezel is cracked, actually broken in half at the thin areas below the wiper switch.
With the bezel "non continuous", that will wreak havoc with the ground to the switch itself. The switch may not be grounded at all if the bezel is broken AND separated.
Chuck
Funny you should bring that up. I figured I was probably one of the few that had ever experienced that particular prob. due to yanking my center gauge cluster out and in so many times.
My broken bezel is exactly how I figured out it must be grounded thru the gauge panel. My bezel is severed completely. One day I turned on the wipers and all I had was High speed. Hit a bump and it would slow to normal, 2 seconds later back to high. "Ghosts in the machine" I thought.
Then I realized it must be a ground prob. Slid a penny in the console at the the break 'till I could get it home for a fix. For some reason when the ground is lost, I only have high on my car, very strange. Fixed the ground prob and it works normal.
OK guys. There apparently was a problem with ground at the wiper switch. At first, when I slide the switch from off (with engine off, key on, so I could hear things) I heard absolutely nothing.
I soldered a ground wire from the switch thin bezel to a ground, and NOW when I move the wiper switch from off to on, i hear a solenoid switching on. So at least that much works.
BUT the wipers still don't move at all. What next, guys?
The motor itself has to be grounded. There is an "extra" "L" shaped brass lug that screws onto one of the wiper motor case bolts. The ground wire from the harness slips over the little "L" lug. This little "L" shaped gizmo looks like one of the lugs on the back of a headlight. Chuck
When I move the wiper switch I hear the relay click, and the wiper door open, but no wipers :-(
I am assuming the switch is good since I can hear the relay.
Here is what i've learned thus far. Maybe it will with your 69. (mine's a 72)
The wiper motor has 3 connectors:
1) Big red wire with white stripe
This should be hot whenever the ign. is on AND:
The wiper override switch is not on (under driver's side dash)
And the limit switch is engaged. (The switch is just to the right of the wiper motor {pass. side}) meaning the wiper door is open.
2) A "L" shaped ground lead. The plug was 2 black wires comming in which connect to one small tab on the wiper assembley.
3) A connector with three wires {left to right}
Light blue
Yellow
green i think
The yellow wire is hot when the car is on. I think the other two should be grounded for their respective speeds, but i'm not sure.
On my BROKEN car they do this:
Red w/ white stripe = HOT with car on
Ground = ground
Light blue - hot when switch is set to "low"
Yellow - Hot with car on
Green - Hot when switch is "High"
The moter tests good ( i have two ) so I'm thinking its one of these two things:
1) The red wire connector is too rusty. Maybe less than 12v
2) 1/2 the wiper relay is bad. It clicks, but doesn't pull the leads to ground.
Just fixed it all today. Two simultaneous problems. Original condition was totally dead, totally silent.
First fix was the wiper swtich bezel ground. Soldered a new direct hard wire ground, after that I heard the solenoids clickin', but no wipers action still.
Then I took Chuck G's advice, checked the wiper motor ground wire itself. Terminal connector was rusty. put on a new one, and the wipers work now.........halleluah!
Of course, I need to open wiper door manually first, lol, but this is great progress.
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