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wrong intake?? or intake suggestions

  • Thread starter Thread starter jon79flavette
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J

jon79flavette

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Well today was enlighting, After all the wait, I brought the car on friday to a place here in west palm. They put the car on the dyno numerous times, experimenting with different ideas. They replaced the carb with a 4779 holly, d.p. alot of the problems were a blown out power valve from a previos back-fire. and the old carb was not a 4 corner idle, or double pump. I wanted the barry grant carb (it looks cooler) but he said the holly was more service friendly, and offered every bit the perfomance, said it could be poder coated anything I wanted for about 70 bucks, so don't get hung up on that.

I was pleased with the dyno, they came up with 451 h.p and 431 ft lbs. (at the rear wheels) were the best reading, new carb and re-jeting. I have a super victor intake that he tells me it hurting my torque. It all depends on what you want of course, but the super victor it rated optimum for 3500 to 7500 rpm. he says from a 60 roll, and pure top end this is the intake (racing intake) but I would have much more lunch, and torque with a say 1500 to 6000 intake. Any intake suggestions, the air gap edelbrook seems more diverse, any others, Should I dump the super victor?? Jon
 
He's right - you're sacrificing a lot of streetable low-end torque and throttle response for WOT high-rpm power instead - just depends what's most important to you (99% of your driving is NOT at WOT and 6000 rpm). The dual-plane Edelbrock Performer RPM would be an excellent swap - you'll feel the torque where you drive most of the time, and only give up a little at the top end. I think the alleged advantage of the Air-Gap vs. the regular Performer RPM is more marketing hype than reality.
:beer
 
John, thats an ironic choice, I have a rpm performer intake in the garage , it kinda dirty, and not polished, but mechanicaaly perfect. no ports are striped, and not warped. It might make sense to put that on before I shell out 200 bucks for an air-gap, everyone likes the air-gap, but maybe that is cause it's newer, and therefore better "right ha,ha" I was under the impression it was a little to "mild" for my motor, maybe I am wrong.

PS I ment launch, and not lunch, but with my misspelling, who really counts:drink
 
I have nothing to say cause i'm not an expert... but SPLURTT your engine looks fantastic.
 
Go with the performer for all-around performance. I had a victor (not on my 82), and there is NO bottom end.
Good luck :Steer :Steer :v
 
Wrong intake and producing 451 rear wheel HP. Thats awsome. Just what exactly has been done to this small block to manufacture this type of power. If you wouldn`t mine sharing your modifications, I would be interested how you did it!:BOW
 
203 cc AFR aluminium heads, cnc ported-polished ( I initally thought these were 215 runners, but they are not) 64cc/2:02, Lunati hydrallic roller camm 230/230 @50 - 290/290 adv. - 480/480 lift - act lift 512 with 1.6 crane roller rockers, 109 lobe sep, super victor intake, scat 4340 crank, ross forced pistons, 10.6 to 1 comp ratio, 4779 holley 750 d.p/d.f. mech secondaries motor 383 stroker - .40 over 386 act. hooker (conventional after market header - side pipe set-up) 1-7/8 primaries/4" side tube - spal elec 16" fan (2650 cfm - CAS custom alum rad. stewart stage 3 w.p - painless 185-on / 170 off - MSD / HEI 8474 dist. 3.73 rear gear (not 3:55) fac. rear, auto 350 turbo trans - hardened sprage, hardened gears - trans go 2 stage shift kit, splicer hardened u-joints.
 
iron cross, I don't know if I am sensing some sarcasim or doubt, or sincere WOW, or what. Please let me know.

My point was, and is, the h.p. was higher than I thought, The dyno test was done at Split Image speed shop in west palm beach, they are a large 25 yr. old co. with an excellent reputation. We are 20 min. form the local Moroso track, and they are too in demand to be unethical, or misinformed. These are their figures, not mine, and they did numerous adjustments for the "best" numbers. My question was, am I creating more h.p than torque for all "practical" driving purpose, they say I am. In other words, drop some top end h.p., and gain streetable, launch, torque. Your thoughts??

kinda funny, cause their attitude in the beginning was: we did not build the motor! we see alot of "engine builder" mistakes, we'll see what we got here, and go from there. They have nothing to gain, they did not build/sell the motor to me. Yes it is a hydrallic roller cam, That was the engine builders choice when he asked what my intentions were (longevity) and power, for the car. The engine was built by double z performance speed shop in kilgore texas, I met up with them at a busch race in homestead fla. They have built several a.r.c.a , n.a.s.c.a.r. motors, and run a shop building many daily circle track racing motors. I am very pleased with the motor, and I am simply trying to ask "additional" input from people that share the same type of cars and interests as myself. :drink
 
That is something

I was really interested how! 451 is not in a BS league. Thats serious HP. You have a lot good of high dollar parts and they SHOULD reward you with something and 451 RWHP is certanily "something" . It would be interesting to see, properly set up as far as chassis, gears, and tires just how quick the car is. I am not a lover of hydraulic cams because of the rpm limits but you have an interesting combination. Not exactly the way I would have gone about it. I`m one that goes overboard and actually ruin cars and make them non streetable but still drive them on the street. It`s best not to follow my examples. But if it works for you, thats more important and certainaly as Letterman would say, "Thats something" I will raise a brimming glass. and i`ll drink to that. Good luck
:m
 
Interesting, I had similar problems, flat below 3000rpm and then it would go, although probably not in the same horse power league as you. From what I read the Airgap intake is ok and if you were intent on having one, because they do look good, it was suggested to me that you could build up the divider so that it was a true duell plane intake.

After a lot of discussion with various people and I even spoke to a couple of Edelbrock guys, tried working with the carb and so on I decided that the biggest problem was the RPM cam and not the intake I could just have grinned and beared it but the car was not nice to drive around town so I changed the cam. Looks to me that if you changed to the Performer intake then you wouldn`t be making the best of the cam you have in. The Airgap might be somewhere inbetween and give you a bit better torque without sacrificing to much at the top end. As you say though it depends on what you want from your car.

J.
 
Suggested Intake

For very good performance from top to bottom would be the GM 1970 LT1 intake. Probably the best all around dual plain ever. Just get it shined up to match your other parts. ;)
 
JHL, Thank you for your input, I am gonna intall the edelbrock air-gap on friday, (what better way to spend my one day off in a few months) I will bring it to the speed shop afterwords, and see what the dyno says. I'll pay them to "tweak" it from there. I wanted to say I love the look and foot-print of the 295/50 (rear) you have, I went with 275/60s, but if I had to do it again, I like the 50s, any mods, and/or spacers for that tire???
 
wally, thats an interesting choice, getting it polished is not difficult, but how hard/easy is is it to come by a 33 yr. old fac.
LT-1 intake.
 
Shouldn`t be too hard, The Z28 Camaros used the same dual plain high rise intake. They were not limited to the Vettes. They made over 20,000 1969 Z28`s. It`s a good choice as it has both bottom and top end power. :upthumbs :m Good luck,
 
Holley makes a clone of the z-28 intake, but the performer RPM would be an excellent choice also for a street machine.
John your numbers are impressive and shows the engine was built as a system with everything working together
Congradulations come to the Cruise Fest in May we will have a dyno run and make believers out of everyone (I am a believer already)


http://corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39010
 
boss, thanks for the invite, indiana in may can't be too cold, right, I hate to sound un-traveled, but I am, never been north of south carolina, nor west of dallas/ft woth airport. My best friend is from youngstown OH, and I keep saying I'kk make a harley ride up north with him, I have been saying that for 7 years now. I need to get the heck outta here, and quit talkin about it. Seems like fun,:beer
 
JHL - awesome car, you have done alot of work, and should be proud. It looked like the motor is sitting a tad to the pass. side. I have the same thing. I have a cut-out in the factory hood, with a 2 - 3/4" mini - L-88 glassed hood scoop the covers the 14" air cleaner. I recently replaced the motor, and motor mounts with energy suspension polyurethene mounts. once in place I moved the motor a little each way, continuiously, and could never line up dead center with the HOOD and car. In other words if I pulled a string from dead center front of car, to dead center, the motor sits a tad to the pass. side. I tried every thing, it's of about 1/4" inch. is this common/normal. the car has never been hit. Just wondering if anyone had this problem, I can find no adverse effects of it, buy it kinda bothers me. Jon
 

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