Calling all Drag Racers - Can I win with this LT4 6spd ?

[bartric]

Well...like I said, I think practice and experience such that the car is more an extension of ones self rather than a device you operate is a valid point.

The best bracket drag racers are going to be very comfortable with their car...to the point that it is an "extension" of theirselves.

That said, shift lights have been a long-accepted way to better consistency in drag racing and maybe they need to be viewed as just one part of making the car an extension of yourself.

Whadaya think?:confused

Yes, I definitely agree now that it was put that way. I suppose just as much as you 'feel' the gears, and 'hear' the engine rev, you might as well throw another sense in there as to better hone in your skills of shifting. Now if only we could rig something up in your car that would release a certain scent when you needed to shift as well as spray something in your mouth, then we could combine all of our senses to help our shifting abilities. Or over load our brains and give us all seizures.

 

[bartric]

But as I was talking about, a car being an extension, my Camaro was pretty close to it, as far as what I did in it, but when I started trying to learn to drift and other stuff, you find out there is a lot you need to know about a car to truly make it an extension of yourself. Especially to control the 'uncontrollable' sliding of a car.

When you start throwing in lateral directions you aren't use to having to control, or other variables, such as throttle, clutch engagement, gear shifting, that you aren't use to having to do a specific way, it is as Hib said, practice makes perfect. Lots of practice!

When it changes from dumping the clutch and hammering the throttle (a fairly uncontrolled action) to disengaging the clutch and squeezing the throttle (a more controlled action) your brain has a lot of muscle memory it has to start replacing and retraining itself to do. Maybe the best way to start out, is not doing it wrong til you get it right, but more of a, do it slowly til you're comfortable, then do it quicker, similar to the way you learn to drive a stick. You can't run 'til you can walk.

 

[Hib Halverson]

This thread is starting to get way far into hardware and away from the central issue, launching and consistency.

I think Idaho Slim needs a shift light and a better clutch but then, beyond that, learning to launch and then practicing the technique that works best is the key.

Once you get that down, then start looking into different tires, chassis mods and whatever else that stirs your interest.

 

[jonszr1]

one other thing that i would fit into hibs last post is moving the mat sensor to the radiator shroud . the reason i include it is the heat sink that effects that sensor while idling waiting to run ,i found that that sensor got heat soaked while waiting to run and can take about 10 hp out of your car, which you dont need and can drive one nuts trying to get the car consistant for bracket racing . hook up your scan tool and ck the temp while waiting to stage . if its like our zr1s when the temp gets over 90 deg it starts backing things out . mark haibeck was the one that shared this with me . again i wasnt trying to confuse the issue was just sharing what i have found out from over 200 runs with 2 different zr1s . there are vids on utube of both cars under bradszr1. again best of luck and enjoy the strip

 

[jonszr1]

hib , do you have the part number of the autometer gauge that you use . i came up blank on summit when i put in autometer dpss.thanx

 

[boomdriver]

hib , do you have the part number of the autometer gauge that you use . i came up blank on summit when i put in autometer dpss.thanx

Try documenting the power band by getting a rider that does nothing but watch the tach during a run...as you drive you shout out where the hard pulling starts and stops...write all that down.

ex: pulling.1st shift up @4500..hit 2nd pulling @ 3150 up to shift to 3rd at 5500 @

I'm just using numbers that mean nothing, but if you document your power band-range and find the best place to grab the next gear, that will dictate how hard you need to come out of the hole.

Take it home, turn that into a graph that shows how far after launch you have before upshift and what the correct rpm would be. This makes a map of sorts. When you learn the cars powerband, and learn when to shift you can then look back at the launch and see exactly how aggressively you have to come out in order to meet that first upshift at the right rpm mark. You will be surprized that you can lighten the launch, stop the spinning and hit the sweet spot where real pulling power is that won't be wasted on useless wheelspin.

 

[Idaho Slim]

Thanks for all the help. I have been drag racing on & off since I got the bug as a young street racer in the late 70's racing a 70' Nova stuffed with a Corvette 327 & M22 4 spd. The last 3 years I have been "re-bitten" and I am scracthing that itch alotwith our C4's. I won my brackett last year, and now it is a solid pastime in our lives.

The only change is going to this LT4 6 spd, and I think the missing piece I now have is the Launch Tips from Ranger. I will practice, practice, practice them and Shift lights are a must on the list. All the winning cars at our tracks are running them, I dont think there is an good argument against them . I disagree with some of the comments about the tires, the Goodyear Drag radials hookup almost TOO much, so I plan on staying with these unless when I swap in 4.10 gearing I need the race slicks. Thanx jonez, i will re-locate the MAT, I think I remember a thread about doing it. The big item I think other than the practice with the Launch tips is addressing the clutch.

So Hib, I take it just a stock replacement clutch, or are we talking aftermarket race clutch plates?

52,000 miles on the car, and since I have owned it, about 20 passes at the track, 12 with the drag raidals.

Thanx everyone, it's going to be a long winter waiting !!!!:W:W

 

[Hib Halverson]

hib , do you have the part number of the autometer gauge that you use . i came up blank on summit when i put in autometer dpss.thanx

There are boocoo part numbers depending on what style of DPSS gage you want and which options you want with it.

I'd look at AutoMeter's web site, first, before you order from Summit. Also, research prices at vendors other than Summit. Sometimes, they're not the lowest price. Check Amazon.com.

 

[Hib Halverson]

(snip)I disagree with some of the comments about the tires, the Goodyear Drag radials hookup almost TOO much, so I plan on staying with these unless when I swap in 4.10 gearing I need the race slicks

If Drag Radials are hooking "too much" and you mean the car is bogging, then raise your rpm at launch.

Don't put "real" drag slicks on unless 1) you're ready to occasionally replace rear axle parts and 2) you're ready to launch at 4000 rpm or so.

Thanx jonez, i will re-locate the MAT, I think I remember a thread about doing it.

Keep in mind that jonszr1 is talking about the LT5 engine. Doing the same thing with the LT4 may or may not have the desired effect.

The big item I think other than the practice with the Launch tips is addressing the clutch.

So Hib, I take it just a stock replacement clutch, or are we talking aftermarket race clutch plates?

No. I'm not talking about "aftermarket race clutch plates". I mean an aftermarket, single plate clutch suitable for street/strip and an aluminum flywheel. I use McLeod parts in my C4.

 

[93Rubie]

Hib, do you recommend using the aftermarket aluminum flywheels (single mass) or the steel flywheels (single mass)? Idaho Slim may be interested in changing out his Dual Mass fly wheel if a clutch is needed.

I would think the heavier steel flywheel would be better for drag strip launches as you have all that mass spinning and could very wheel help you launch the car harder. Versus a aluminum piece that would (in my opinion) be better for road racing.

Carolina Clutch and Performance, Inc.: Performance Clutches &amp Flywheels

They offer steel units as well as clutch packages.

 

[jonszr1]

the alluminum fly wheel is a great up grade . dont know the weight of of the lt4 flywheel but the zr1 fly wheel is over 40 lbs .changed to a fidanza that weighed 13.5 lbs and it was easier to launch the car (1000) revs more off the line but the car excellerated faster in the lower gears due to not having to move that heavy pos stk flywheel . you can use a stk pressure plate and upgrade to a ceramic disc (zfdocs recommendation ) and have a clutch that will last a long time if you dont do something stupid with it .my 90 has over 275 runs down the strip with this clutch setup and still going strong . its fun on the street also as the car revs so much faster . i also change my clutch fluid after 30 runs down the strip which keeps the hydrolics in good shape (zfodcs suggestion )lastly enjoy your fun at the strip its a great addiction having been addicted since 1970.