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High oil pressure reads with key off 80 pds

  • Thread starter Thread starter trochred99
  • Start date Start date
Mine went last year and it pegged to max, I thought something was really wrong especially since it was high on my HUD as well. Then I had the sending unit replaced. All is well now. The only problem is that they have to remove the intake manifold to do it. If you ever desired to have the Z06 intake, now would be a good time to change it. - R
 
Mine went last week and it was the oil pressure sending unit located behind the intake manifold which needs to be taken off then put back on with new gaskets. I think the part was $65 not including labor.
 
C5 oil pressure sender access hole that gm forgot!!

......You did WHAT???...You cut a HOLE in your 98 CORVETTE????!!
....Yes I did!...after nearly 4 years of putting off the Factory's Method of removing the fuel injection system, intake manifold/plenum, to gain access to the constantly failing oil pressure sending unit that is on the top rear of the block!....in my case...4 units replaced in 130k miles!!!

Step 1: Disconnect Battery and remove the wiper blade assemblies-12mm nuts under the caps- you may need WD-40 to loosen times grip on the shaft?

Step 2: Remove the plastic fasteners on the cowl cover- outer edges are wedged under the glass. Be careful with the washer hoses.

Step 3: Remove the 10mm bolts from the wiper motor/arms assembly and unplug connector from motor. Fiddle with the arms until you can slide the assembly out.

Step 4: Locate the center of the intake. The oil sender is about 2 inches to drivers side from center. I used the lower inspection plug from a 1998 Corvette torque tube bellhousing as my template and eventual plug for my access hole. Scribe an outline of the plug about 2" high by 4" long. Then retrace a smaller outline about 1/8" smaller on the inside of the outline. This is the area you will cut so the plug will fit snugly. I located this hole about 1/2" from the top angle of the cowl.
I used a Dremel Tool carefully cut my hole. The hole needs enough room to allow a 27mm or 1 1/16" deep thin wall socket-$8 Delco Tools at Oreilly's-fit perfect.

Step 5: Remove the connector from sender. Tricky, but a pull hook and long thin screw driver works good or thin needle nose pliers.

Step 6: Move connector and any other wires or hoses out of the way so you have clear view of the sender. Blow this area around and under the sender out with compressed air. It would be better to loosen the sender a few turns first and remove the socket before blowing it out. You don't want any grime in the oil passages! Remove the sender.

Step 7: Apply a few wraps of electric tape to new sender-just enough so that the sender won't fall out of the socket but not too tight that you can't pull the socket back off the sender and up through the hole.
Wrap threads with thread sealant and install. Attach connector and replace the relocated wires and hoses. You can attach battery and check your success if desired?

Step 8: I smoothed out the edges of my hole while checking the fit of my plug. It would have fit better if the plug wasn't so thick...maybe you can find a thinner substitute? I used Plummers Goop just to make it lay down better and to seal out any heat or fumes from the engine bay.

Step 9: Reassemble being careful to energize wipers before placing blades assemblys on and before install of cowl cover! Make sure wipers roll right without binding before placing blades on shafts!!!

Step 10: You may want to replace wiper washer hoses before putting the lid on things??
I will try and upload some pics but not sure I can?? I can email them to anyone who would like them. My access hole looks like the Boys at Bowling Green did it and all Gm Delco Parts....and roughly 30 minutes to gain access to the trouble maker. $35 Sender $8 Socket 30-60 mins.
 
......You did WHAT???...You cut a HOLE in your 98 CORVETTE????!!
....Yes I did!...after nearly 4 years of putting off the Factory's Method of removing the fuel injection system, intake manifold/plenum, to gain access to the constantly failing oil pressure sending unit that is on the top rear of the block!....in my case...4 units replaced in 130k miles!!!

Step 1: Disconnect Battery and remove the wiper blade assemblies-12mm nuts under the caps- you may need WD-40 to loosen times grip on the shaft?

Step 2: Remove the plastic fasteners on the cowl cover- outer edges are wedged under the glass. Be careful with the washer hoses.

Step 3: Remove the 10mm bolts from the wiper motor/arms assembly and unplug connector from motor. Fiddle with the arms until you can slide the assembly out.

Step 4: Locate the center of the intake. The oil sender is about 2 inches to drivers side from center. I used the lower inspection plug from a 1998 Corvette torque tube bellhousing as my template and eventual plug for my access hole. Scribe an outline of the plug about 2" high by 4" long. Then retrace a smaller outline about 1/8" smaller on the inside of the outline. This is the area you will cut so the plug will fit snugly. I located this hole about 1/2" from the top angle of the cowl.
I used a Dremel Tool carefully cut my hole. The hole needs enough room to allow a 27mm or 1 1/16" deep thin wall socket-$8 Delco Tools at Oreilly's-fit perfect.

Step 5: Remove the connector from sender. Tricky, but a pull hook and long thin screw driver works good or thin needle nose pliers.

Step 6: Move connector and any other wires or hoses out of the way so you have clear view of the sender. Blow this area around and under the sender out with compressed air. It would be better to loosen the sender a few turns first and remove the socket before blowing it out. You don't want any grime in the oil passages! Remove the sender.

Step 7: Apply a few wraps of electric tape to new sender-just enough so that the sender won't fall out of the socket but not too tight that you can't pull the socket back off the sender and up through the hole.
Wrap threads with thread sealant and install. Attach connector and replace the relocated wires and hoses. You can attach battery and check your success if desired?

Step 8: I smoothed out the edges of my hole while checking the fit of my plug. It would have fit better if the plug wasn't so thick...maybe you can find a thinner substitute? I used Plummers Goop just to make it lay down better and to seal out any heat or fumes from the engine bay.

Step 9: Reassemble being careful to energize wipers before placing blades assemblys on and before install of cowl cover! Make sure wipers roll right without binding before placing blades on shafts!!!

Step 10: You may want to replace wiper washer hoses before putting the lid on things??
I will try and upload some pics but not sure I can?? I can email them to anyone who would like them. My access hole looks like the Boys at Bowling Green did it and all Gm Delco Parts....and roughly 30 minutes to gain access to the trouble maker. $35 Sender $8 Socket 30-60 mins.
Oh No,No Need for that!~!!
The right tools for the job and 30 minutes,Your Done without cutting anything!~!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PvlDLcyXX8


:L
 
Your engine looks lower from the cowl than my 98 Vet??....

Oh No,No Need for that!~!!
The right tools for the job and 30 minutes,Your Done without cutting anything!~!!

‪C5 oil sender.mp4‬‏ - YouTube


:L
I don't know what year yours is?...but my 98 has two injection lines on the left side for one thing and a emissions line right over the top of the oil sender that runs from left to right. It also appears that you have nearly twice the room between the intake and the cowl that I have?...There is no possible way I can get a picture of the sender on mine?...let alone get a finger on it or an eye?...I am curious though, to know what changes were made during assembly of later C5's to allow limited access to that area that you obviously have??

My access hole is so sanitary and nearly invisible that it is what GM should have done in 98. It also allows visual access to check the vaccuum lines to the Brakes and HVAC as well as other electrical and mechanical thingamajigs crammed back there. There is no worries about getting a grain of sand down in the oil hole if you blow the area out which I am not sure you are able to on yours?.... and now if needing to replace the sender in the future...all you need is about 15 minutes or less with no fumbling in the dark wondering if you have knocked something loose?

Good luck to those needing help, to whatever method you choose?
 
30 minutes to do pulling the intake or 45 the first time cutting the hole to make it a 15 minute job
 
30 minutes to do pulling the intake or 45 the first time cutting the hole to make it a 15 minute job

Do you have a write up or better yet, a video showing how to do this in 30 minutes? A lot of folks would love to see it.
 
Do you have a write up or better yet, a video showing how to do this in 30 minutes? A lot of folks would love to see it.
why would I waste MY time
it would take me a week to change it then;LOL

it's called air tools for the un-initiated
 
why would I waste MY time
it would take me a week to change it then;LOL

it's called air tools for the un-initiated

That's the great thing about the Internet. You can be a legend in your own mind and nobody would know the truth. :chuckle :thumb
 
Don't be throwing sand, kids... :argue

-Mac
 
why is he allowed to attack me ?
 

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