LT4 LT4 Oil Analysis

[jeepcoma]

Since I got my LT4 at only 8,000 miles, I figured I'd start doing oil analyses to see how it holds up as the years continue to tick by. Hopefully the results will be, if not useful, then interesting. I'm also recording all fuel fill-ups so I might add some charts here as well, just to keep a log somewhere. My LT1 Camaro has almost 200k miles now, I got it at 80k, and wish I had a better history to see how things are going (it does run like a raped ape still). So, I hope to have some more information about this wonderful LT4 as time goes by.

All testing by Blackstone Labs.

First analysis. I guessed the oil had about 4k miles on it. This was after our road trip up back from Orlando, and just a couple other highway trips. 99% highway mileage. Probably didn't need to change it, but I try to do all my oil changes at the start of Spring and Fall so I don't forget.

I had to figure out how to get enough room under the car to actually reach the oil pan plug and filter, so I had to start it and move it around a few times, which I noted to the lab in case of fuel contamination.

The act of starting the engine just to put the car on ramps might have led to a little fuel
dilution. It didn't, but had there been a little fuel in this oil, we wouldn't have worried. Ideally, you'll drive the
car right on the ramps when you get back from your drive, turn it off, let it cool, and then sample the oil
before starting the engine. That's okay if that doesn't happen. Your engine looks great. Metals are all fine
compared to averages, which are based on about 3,300 miles on the oil. The TBN was good at 5.3, since
1.0 is low. A run of 6,000 miles should be fine.

I also wanted to do a raw oil analysis, before adding Castrol Syntec 0W-40 "European Formula". This oil appears to be pretty well recommended on certain forums. If anything, at least I can serve as a benchmark for others. Science! At the time of oil change, I also did something possibly foolish and got a "lifetime" oil filter. After considerable research (most of which consisted of people saying either "I bought one and like it" or "I could buy X oil filters for Y dollars each for the price of that thing!!!") I went with the K&P unit. We will see how it goes. I have to clean it once a year, big whoop. And I'll have some real data to add to the pissing contest about stainless mesh filters.

It sure looks nice.

This looks like a good sample of virgin Castrol Edge. The viscosity is correct for 0W/40 oil,
and there are no signs of harmful contaminants. The main detergent/dispersant additives are calcium and
magnesium, while zinc and phosphorus are anti-wear additives. This is a good level of additives, and it
should do well in your LT4 engine. We did find a little more metal in this oil than we typically see from virgin
samples, but nothing here is what we'd call a problem level. The TBN is 8.0, so you're starting out with
plenty of active additive. Looks like good oil!

 

[jeepcoma]

2014 Update

Due to moving, it took a bit longer and we put a few more miles on than I wanted before being able to change the oil. In any case, the K&P oil filter was really nice to change and clean. It was really neat to be able to open it up and examine the contents, and I noted in my oil analysis that wear seemed low. There is an internal magnet, and it wasn't even fully coated (compared to videos I have seen where it's covered). It was easy to clean, and really shines up and looks brand new again. I really believe the claims about flow; when you run water through it the stream is disrupted by the structure, but otherwise it's like it's not even there in terms of how much water flows through it. Of course, appearance takes a back seat compared to actual filtration, so I was anxious for the oil analysis results.

I refilled with the same Castrol Syntec 0W-40 "European Formula".

This was a longer oil run than last time, so we were expecting a little higher wear. However, the increases in iron and lead did take us a little by surprise. Mind you, these levels aren't cautionary, at least not compared to universal averages, and that's good, but sudden increases for no obvious reason, especially lead in this case, do get our attention. For now, this is really just something to watch, but it would be nice if iron and lead dropped next time. Low insolubles show fine oil filtration and there's no fuel or coolant. Run 6,000 miles and check back.

 

[93Rubie]

I don't use Blackstone for my Corvette, as I change oil yearly regardless of mileage but its usually 3-4K on it.
However, I have been using them for my DD and am very pleased with the info they can give me. It has allowed me to extend my service intervals to approx. 7500miles on 0w20 Mobil 1 Synthetic.

 

[Hib Halverson]

Interesting post, especially Blackstone's results from your virgin sample.
Couple of comments...

Blackstone Labs...great choice. Over the years, I've used four different oil analysis labs and Blackstone is the best for their consistent testing, quick service and useful, easy-to-understand comments.

0W-40 oil. Not so good choice.
While Castrol 0W40 is well-marketed, you don't need a 0W and you don't need a 40wt. Use a premium, synthetic 5W30, such as Gibbs Driven LS30. You'll have better oil performance by virtue of less viscosity improvers and a cutting-edge mPAO base stock like the Gibbs oils use. Unless you are racing with high sustained oil tempertures and have marginal oil pressure, don't use a 40-wt. If the car is street driven, you'll have less load on the oil pump and lower oil temp via a 30wt rather than a 40.

4000 oil changes are just wasting money and environmentally irresponsible. The oil analysis you posted clearly shows that. Try 8000 miles or two years whichever comes first but clean your filter every 4000.

 

[John Mekisich]

Lt$ Oil Analysis

Interesting post, especially Blackstone's results from your virgin sample.
Couple of comments...

Blackstone Labs...great choice. Over the years, I've used four different oil analysis labs and Blackstone is the best for their consistent testing, quick service and useful, easy-to-understand comments.

0W-40 oil. Not so good choice.
While Castrol 0W40 is well-marketed, you don't need a 0W and you don't need a 40wt. Use a premium, synthetic 5W30, such as Gibbs Driven LS30. You'll have better oil performance by virtue of less viscosity improvers and a cutting-edge mPAO base stock like the Gibbs oils use. Unless you are racing with high sustained oil tempertures and have marginal oil pressure, don't use a 40-wt. If the car is street driven, you'll have less load on the oil pump and lower oil temp via a 30wt rather than a 40.

4000 oil changes are just wasting money and environmentally irresponsible. The oil analysis you posted clearly shows that. Try 8000 miles or two years whichever comes first but clean your filter every 4000.

Hib, I am not familiar with the Gibbs product line. Do you consider it superior to Amsoil or Redline and if so can you please share why?