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JohnZ needed for one of these questions

Kid_Again

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
1,171
Location
NJ - Which exit you from?
Corvette
65 SB Roadster, 66 BB Coupe
...so, i was helping VNV put his hood on, take it off, put it on, take it off, so that he could route his new AC hoses and wiring and all that stuff when the subject of coupe doors came up...

..i could swear that i read in noland adams' book that due to a wrong measurement of the molds used for the coupes' roof, the doors were JUST slightly higher than the roof...the plant found the strongest guy they could and had him bend the doors so that they would fit...'zat true????

...one other question and i would appreciate anyone's answer...how many teeth on a stock 327 flywheel and how many on a stock 427 flywheel?:m
 
That's correct - the roof mold was erroneously made to the inside of the panel (which is standard design practice for dies for a steel panel), so the outer surface wound up about .100" low to design. Nobody would spend the money for a pair of new roof molds, so it was never fixed. Most coupes had the doors "reefed" to better match the roof; with the door open (and the window down), the guy put his knee at the belt line just below the window opening and "reefed" the top of the door inboard just enough to bend the steel upper frame, and not quite enough to fracture the fiberglass outer panel at the belt line. Took an "educated touch" to do it right without damaging the door.

Midyear 327's used a 12-3/4" 153-tooth flywheel and 10.5" clutch, and midyear 427's (except L-88) used a 14" 168-tooth flywheel with an 11" clutch (the '65 396 used the small 153-tooth flywheel and 10.5" clutch, as did the '67 L-88).

:beer
 
....'appreciate it, john, thanks!
 
Were gonna change Jhon Z's name to...Hinc-a-Wikipedia ;LOL


I also could use that guy on the door line to adjust my hood..:D
 
:Hey Mark......

....nah, you don't need JohnZ....you just need a propane torch, a hammer and a 2x4..

we'll "reef" that puppy:bang


....btw, STILL working on the sb blower setup......fired it up and pressurized the cooling system and so far so good......6th time that i've adjusted the valves.....now i had two different problems, the first being that the ammeter was acting all funny and the battery wouldn't take a decent charge and even though it ran for only about 10 minutes, i thought the alternator was getting hot....seems as though your story about the hot alternator on your other car came in REAL handy...short version of the story is that i think i didn't have an adequate ground on the alternator so i re-routed it AND added another ground strap...seems fine now.....

...the other problem (which you pointed out to me) is that freakin' blower box has THREE screw plugs to adjust the carb idle richness screws but the fourth hole was taken up by the OEM location for the throttle return spring stud...how dumb is that?......so i drilled and tapped another hole for that stud and now i can adjust all four idle screws without removing the carb:eyerole....i'd like to publish the tech article on the install but it never seems to end ;shrug



...btw, any ideas on a tool which would allow me to adjust the screws from outside the box?....a long thin screwdriver doesn't clear the valve cover for one of the screws...i was thinking of a long flexible shaft that has a goober on the end that would slip over the screw and have an internal screwdriver blade to catch the screw....maybe i can start with an old speedometer cable, sharpen the end to a flat blade and slip a piece of tubing over the end?



finally, not sure if you got my VM but the AN oil return line from the blower got the better of me and i put the oem line back on....i think i need a 126.35* custom elbow :eyerole to clear the top of the blower housing so i think that'll be a winter project when i can put it up on the lift and fart around with it :(
 
...btw, any ideas on a tool which would allow me to adjust the screws from outside the box?....a long thin screwdriver doesn't clear the valve cover for one of the screws...i was thinking of a long flexible shaft that has a goober on the end that would slip over the screw and have an internal screwdriver blade to catch the screw.... :(

back in the days of points there used to be a flexible screwdriver like tool to adjust them you might be able to silver solder/braze a screwdriver tip onto one of those; if you can find one.;)
 
:Hey Mark......

....nah, you don't need JohnZ....you just need a propane torch, a hammer and a 2x4..

we'll "reef" that puppy:bang


....btw, STILL working on the sb blower setup......fired it up and pressurized the cooling system and so far so good......6th time that i've adjusted the valves.....now i had two different problems, the first being that the ammeter was acting all funny and the battery wouldn't take a decent charge and even though it ran for only about 10 minutes, i thought the alternator was getting hot....seems as though your story about the hot alternator on your other car came in REAL handy...short version of the story is that i think i didn't have an adequate ground on the alternator so i re-routed it AND added another ground strap...seems fine now.....

...the other problem (which you pointed out to me) is that freakin' blower box has THREE screw plugs to adjust the carb idle richness screws but the fourth hole was taken up by the OEM location for the throttle return spring stud...how dumb is that?......so i drilled and tapped another hole for that stud and now i can adjust all four idle screws without removing the carb:eyerole....i'd like to publish the tech article on the install but it never seems to end ;shrug



...btw, any ideas on a tool which would allow me to adjust the screws from outside the box?....a long thin screwdriver doesn't clear the valve cover for one of the screws...i was thinking of a long flexible shaft that has a goober on the end that would slip over the screw and have an internal screwdriver blade to catch the screw....maybe i can start with an old speedometer cable, sharpen the end to a flat blade and slip a piece of tubing over the end?



finally, not sure if you got my VM but the AN oil return line from the blower got the better of me and i put the oem line back on....i think i need a 126.35* custom elbow :eyerole to clear the top of the blower housing so i think that'll be a winter project when i can put it up on the lift and fart around with it :(


Sorry I missed your call. I was out at our favirote place.. "ACE". Glad to hear no leaky from the head. Heh, what ever works to get the oil back to the pan is cool.

Bossvette is right on . There is a Carb adjusting tool made with a flex shaft. On the twist-y end is a ..kinda like an open tube and inside it has a blade to grab the idol screw. The tube slips over the screw and the screw drops down inside and contacts the driver blade inside. The tube prevents the tool from sliping off as it's rotated.

Check Summitt or Jegs.. Or some one here might have a source.

I'll give you a call and update you on Project "Freez":D
 
thanks guys:w


Mark, btw...we made an offer on the house in margate...unlikely we'll get it but 'ya never know
 
:D
thanks guys:w


Mark, btw...we made an offer on the house in margate...unlikely we'll get it but 'ya never know


Bummer dude.... No More Mar-Tuni Kuba Kuba Mammary Parade's..;shrug

Lynn.. If you can read this Say No..!!!:D
 
:D


Bummer dude.... No More Mar-Tuni Kuba Kuba Mammary Parade's..;shrug

Lynn.. If you can read this Say No..!!!:D


...yeah, i know


....look at the bright side, in margate we can watch the families walking back and forth to the church and temple...they're right down the street:D
 
...yeah, i know


....look at the bright side, in margate we can watch the families walking back and forth to the church and temple...they're right down the street:D

After a few church and temple drive buys with the vett's and the side pipes rappen...they'll know your in town.:D
 

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