I was playing with the 3/4 gear lever on the transmission. I think the ball detent in 3rd has a problem. I detached the shift linkage pin for that gear and I can push lever into 3rd. But I can also push it slightly past the detent, and then when I release the lever it rocks back into the...
I have an 85 with the 4+3. I'm getting an off throttle vibration in 3rd gear. The stick will violently start shaking like it's coming out of gear. As soon as I touch the gas it goes away. Shifting is smooth and no grinding.
I had the transmission out, and when I put it back in, I used a...
Thanks everyone.
I found a local machine shop that had SBC experience with drag racing builds and good equipment for valve work.
I was able to get a multi angle valve job for $150 because I had disassembled and cleaned the heads before delivery.
They said the valve seats were slightly worn...
I am rebuilding my 1985 C4 L98 143k miles. No prior valve work done on it and it ran great before disassembly. I need some advice on Valve seat / Valve work.
The intake valves appear to be in good shape. Very minor imperfections on the valve contact area that are only apparent under a...
What you are talking about is not rubber, it is a alloy and plastic pivot that sits in a rubber holder on the top of the front spring. So you can't trim it down. You remove the pivot, and slice off the rubber. Then you sand the 2mm rubber top stub that is left to get a good surface to glue...
I looked up the Melling oil pumps. They sell a high volume and a regular volume pump. Each has a spring inside that you can change out to convert it to and from high pressure.
The info states that high volume is for engines with wider bearing clearances. I'll get the high volume one and...
In short, no.
You need the wedges to protect the spring from damage as it flexes against the crossmember. The wedges replace the stock pivots, and should lower the car slightly.
If you install the wedges, then you have to remove the slack that creates in the retainers by shortening the...
Sorry yeah, I guess some specifics would help. :) Thanks for responding.
I have a 1985 C4 with a 4+3 with 143k miles. Std 5.7l TPI. No problems like smoking or rough running, just some carbon buildup in the head/valves that I am cleaning. Switching to Hedman Street Headers 68440. I am...
This is my first engine top end rebuild, so I'm trying to be careful and think everything through. Here is a barrage of questions.
The Crane tech recommended Crane Gold Race Extruded Rocker Arms 1.6 11759-16, I have rod guides in the heads, plus Crane Valve Spring and Retainer Kits 11308-1 to...
I just removed and dissasembled my 1985 engine. One of the smog hoses was disconnected and the metal connection pipe had holes rusted it, and broke in half when I removed it. Talk about non-functional. The EGR seemed to work, as the manifold interior was coated with black crud.
In my 1985...
I am looking at the same thing. The Edelbrock pumps that I see list CNC machined impellers, which should be better than the stamped steel ones.
I am looking at sub $100 aluminum hi-flow pumps, I'm not sure if they are better/worse than the OEM pumps?
Thanks, that's great info.
I ordered and installed the replacement retaining brackets, and the wedges for the front spring. I also moved one of the rear fat shims from the top to the bottom and installed the longer bolts in the rear.
I have the engine out , so I can't really tell what kind...
It turns out that for some reason my car does not have the long bar shims that sit above the rubber assembly. The link above was for lowering the front further than just taking those shims out.
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